Clutch pedal will not return all the way

Hello, I have a 2003 Tacoma 5 speed. I just installed a new clutch, but even before I installed the clutch the pedal would not return all the way. I have to pull it back with my foot about a quarter inch every time I shift. I cannot find a spring anywhere I believe that that is the issue

 

I doubt the spring popped off.

I had trouble with my clutch not returning recently and it was the master/slave cylinders

 

Make sure the clutch line isn't damaged.

 

Check master fluid level. They are finicky to the amount in the hold. If not I got oem from rock auto really easy to install.

 

I just went through this. After some time it will start going half way down then pull its self to floor and get stuck. I put a new master cylinder and slave cylinder and it works great

 

If you have a V6 truck it's a common problem. They put a spring in that's supposed to be easier to hold down once compressed instead of a pull spring like the 4 cylinder trucks. There are several threads on here about it. Here's a link to one. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/clutch-pedal-will-not-return.574559/#post-19003866

 

What he said.

 

Hope you're better off than me lol

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/clutch-pedal-truffle-shuffle.499079/

 

When I boght my truck, the clutch petal was not returning all the way but I did not know it. I had nothing to reference it to. Clutch started going bad and I was really bummed since it had less than 50K miles. One day when I was releasing my foot off the clutch felt a pop when the clutch came up an additional distance and made contact with my foot. Then I started having to pull i up the rest of the way with my foot.

Finally I had the clutch replaced, with a new master and slave cylinder all from Marlin crawler.

Its still doing it. So next I will do the spring

 

Sorry to say you probably wasted your money on that master and slave cylinder. I can almost guarentee it's your return spring. I bet your cruise control doesn't work or works intermittently as well.

 

Yep waste of money. So many of the forums I read said it was probably the MC. SO I figured if I did both I would be set.
If I knew then what I know now...

 

Jiyoob621 I just discovered my pedal was sticking because some useless Toyota "technician" having replace the master cylinder placed the cotter pin in the grove of the clevis pin rather than in the hole, this causes the clevis pin to slide in and out, and in the out position it caused a binding on the pedal stopping its return. This photo from another members
4cylinder tacoma shows that the groove is for clipping the wimpy return spring used on that model but meant to be unused on the V6

 

This thread is seven years old and the original poster hasn’t been seen in seven years.

 

“This thread is seven years old and the original poster hasn’t been seen in seven years.”

While this may be the case it seems pointless to rehash all the same thoughts when my experience was a new alternative answer for what isn’t a too uncommon issue.

 

Not a bad idea to add extra info

You did address the original poster though, so t0p_d0g was just letting you know that he was gone. Like a lot of posters here, they swing in and ask for help and disappear forever with no resolution

 

I was ready to hit send for the parts to replace the two stage spring and it’s bushings and also buy the simple liner spring as a backup.

Then I came across the image I posted from another thread and took another look at mine, finding the cotter pin on the groves for the linear spring outboard of the hole meant for it. This lead me to realise the clevis pin was able to shift 1/4”, in and out with the head hanging up on something on the backside. Having moved the cotter pin to the correct position the clevis pin’s lateral movement was reduced and the ability for the pedal to return to top by itself was regained.

Being a simple error for a “service technician” who seldom sees a manual transmission to make I wonder if this same issue with other drivers might not really be one of a tired spring but rather previous dealership employees without much mechanical knowledge.

 

I was just letting you know the original poster hasn’t been seen in seven years and you were speaking directly to him.

It will be very unlikely that he will respond to your post.

 

“It will be very unlikely that he will respond to your post.”

it seemed obvious to me to add to a very detailed thread with discussions about solutions for the original issue to add my observation rather then start a new thread, and at a zero dollar cost to correct a common problem assuming the cotter pin hasn’t gone missing.

In addition that my clevis pin was being held in by a cotter pin loosely gripping the grove for the spring could have lead to a fatal accident had it indeed popped off and the clevis pin eventually worked its way out.

Without the clevis pin in place I would have had no brakes, a scary thought.

 

It’s perfectly okay to resurrect an older thread. Again, I was just letting you know that you addressed a poster that hasn’t been seen in seven years.

You can add to any thread it’s just not a good idea to address someone who hasn’t been seen in a very long time.

I might point out for future reference you can click on a member’s name and you can see when they were last seen.

 

It is a funny place, this forum...

If you make a new post on a common issue you'll get a lot of "Didn't you use the search?!?!?" and if you revive an old thread you get "thread is old, OP is dead..."

Can't satisfy everyone. Oh well --