Tacoma Keys

Anyone know the difference in key fobs?
I have a 2017 crew cab with a key ignition. I have only one HYQ12BDP key and need another.

I see a lot of HYQ12BDM available and was wondering if it will work as a replacement for HYQ12BDP.

Thanks!

 

I'm in the same bind. I have a 2017 Tacoma Key Fob FCC ID # HYQ12BDP, with an "H" on the blade (for "H" chip).

I would also like to know if the HYQ12DBM will program and function correctly?

Thanks.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/key-fob-replacement.530762/

https://www.google.com/search?clien...5.0.0..52024...0.0..0.0.0.......0.2GIjonFt0L4

 

Thanks JaCado, that's very helpful.

I'll read through it, but it looks like a complete answer is in those threads.

Thanks very much!

 

You can buy a cheap key off of Ebay and find someplace like a hardware store to cut it... that's typically the biggest challenge. Then you'll need to get it programmed through tech stream I believe. The cable, software and a couple day subscription. All of this is still cheaper than the dealer, plus you can change settings to other things with in tech stream.

 

Cheapest eBay key of type "BDP" is still over $135.00 new.

I do not yet know if a type "BDM" will be a functional replacement, I have not found that answer yet. Those start at $25.00 on eBay, new.

Still looking...

 

I would like a key without the fob that I can stick in my wallet to unlock the doors in case I lock myself out. Anybody know where I might find such a thing?

 

I bought these.
https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/222903480826

Worked perfectly. Programmed using techstream. Locksmith cut them for $4 each.

If you open the fob you will see the actual fcc# you need. Although the outside had fcc# HYQ12BDP the inside had HYQ12BEL.

Should be the same for you. I have a 2017 also.

Search Ebay for HYQ12BEL. There are a bunch available. Just make sure they have the H chip also.

 

I also tried a flip key. I could program the door lock/unlock buttons but can't get the H chip programmed using techstream.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/flip-key-for-2016-taco.469986/

 

Thanks. I will open my existing key and look inside for a different number.

The "Lexus Credit Card Key Working in Tacoma" thread indicates in the first page that the fob FCC ID on the key fob exterior is not the number to match, just like you indicate. My Tacoma is not a remote start vehicle, so I was not able to learn much more from it.

The "H" on the blade is also important, it states the "chip type".

To answer my own question, I found one reference that indicates the HYQ12BDM is a valid interchange number for an HYQ12BDP. It's a Taiwan eBay seller, here:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Flip-Key-F...oma-H-Chip-Remote-3-buttons-KDPH/273063616534

But, I now believe that information is useless, as it assumes the exterior FCC ID number is the one to match. Your experience, and the "Lexus Credit Card Key Working in Tacoma" thread indicates that is not the number to match. So, I believe that for now. (Use the number inside the fob).

 

OK, I bought those keys as well.

When you write "Worked perfectly", I assume you got the H chip immobilizer to also program successfully.

So, I see in another thread, you wrote this on Nov14th: "I was told this H chip requires a Tango programmer. I don't know what that is but it seems like Techstream can't do it. Even though it works for other H chips."

I'm now guessing that you did not have to sort that out, that you got the H chip immobilizer to program without whatever a "Tango Programmer" is... Yes?

Which programmer cable / software / firmware / versions did you wind up using?

Thanks.

 

Yes, these did work with Techstream for the immobilizer H chip and the door locks.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement-Key-for-13-15-Toyota-Rav4-14-16-Prius-C-V-Remote-Fob-H-Chip-HYQ12BEL/222903480826?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


The H chip I had trouble with was the flip key. That was the one the seller on eBay said needed the Tango programmer.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Upgraded-Flip-Remote-Key-for-Toyota-RAV4-Tacoma-2014-2016-Scion-xB-2013-2015/232730054238?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I used this one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DR9DW1J/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_DRA.Bb6081DM9

 

Yes, just go to a locksmith or Home Depot and have them use a Toyota H key blank. It of course won’t start the truck (no chip), but will get you in the door. It is a HILLMAN 35 at HomeDepot.

 

Thanks.

 

Sometimes locksmiths have a tech stream gizmo. Mine does the chip keys for $40 each.

 

Oh, I should add that the stock H key from the dealer will also work (the key with embedded radio chip, no remote). I asked them to do this for my wife since the remote was not necessary... just open/start.

 

OK, good, thanks

I saw you write that this was the cable / programmer that you bought, but the (very recent, Oct 2018) Amazon reviews about it were stating the software was "very buggy". So, I may look for the latest version these folks (crack and) distribute.

Thanks for the leg up.

 

I'm going to add some notes here, now.

I intend to use a Win7 Laptop for the programming OS, and likely select the "typical" Win7 64 bit installation.

The latest TIS / Techstream programming software version available today, for the USA market vehicles, is: v13.20.018 (Release date approx. Oct 2018).

However, I intend to use a previous release that will support my 2017 Tacoma: V13.00.022.

I think the 00.022 is one release "back", and there are sufficient warnings written about the 20.018 release not having much testing history yet.

There's another detail that should be noted. The PC-to-vehicle cable has a USB to OBDII interface, and this device (made and named by various manufacturers: Mongoose, XHorse, etc), has firmware that handles the low level communications voltages, translations and protocols.

The firmware version matters. I see versions 1.4.1, a later version 1.4.8, and version 2.0.4

At this point, I don't know which I should use. There may be a firmware / software interaction that I'm unaware of, and it is also likely dependent on communication protocol updates that I may not need for the '17 Taco. That is, I'm pretty certain it is not dependent on *just* the programmer software version.

That's what I think I know right now, as I spin up on this task of programming an "H" immobilizer chip, and key fob buttons.

This appears to be a pretty good reference site for the Mini VCI / MVCI J2534 interface:

http://minivci.blogspot.com/

I'm registering with this website to ask questions regarding the SW / FW interfaces and versions:

https://mhhauto.com/

I'll let you know what I find out.

Edit:

Firmware version 1.4.1 is for "Techstream Lite" software version use. Firmware version 2.0.4 is for "Techstream Full Version" software version use. They are *not* cross-compatible. Personally, I would not update the cable adaptor firmware. Just use what you bought.

 

I used the V13.00.022 version of the software on 64 bit Win10 with this cable.

Since it only cost $35 I took a chance. It worked out for me as I bought 2 keys for $40 and both cut for $8. So for a total of $83 I have 2 more keys. (I only got one with the truck).

 

I completed programming of two keys for my 2017 Tacoma today.

For future reference, I took notes along the way, and here is the summary. This was what I will call an immersive experience, a relatively tall learning ladder.

You first decide which device type you want to use to perform the programming of the keys with: WinOS / PC, or Android device, or Mac are the most common choices. For the Mac and Android users reading this, I can be no further help to you. I used a Win 7 Pro OS, on a laptop.

Next up decision is: What bit-level OS? 32 bit or 64 bit programming interface? Many users have selected the 32 bit Techstream software, but this appears to be on the "way out" now. They are still being sold with "cracked" installation codes, and "hacked" driver codes. The installation is complex because of the methods used to make it appear as a valid installation.

I examined my laptop, and determined I have a 64 bit Win7Pro OS. So, I decided to use 64 bit key programming application Techstream, and the latest version I could currently find: V13.30.018, as of Dec 2018. It is a clone of the Toyota distro release, available for free from a UK based website. Instead of coming with a cracked set of keys, I requested the keys via PM and they arrived that day to unlock the interface. Earlier version clones available on Amazon also install in this manner, with keys obtained via email to the seller, upon purchase.

I decided on the latest / greatest version of Techstream, because I desired to attempt to obtain a dealership level diagnostic capability in addition to "just" key programming. I was, and still am, hopeful that will work out. (The Techstream application interface is complex, and not easily understood. I'm wading in carefully).

Next up decision is: What cable to use to connect the vehicle to the laptop, and which firmware revision level? I chose an Xhorse 2.0.4 with cable type Mini-VCI (MVCI) J2534 interface. The Xhorse is a popular cloned interface cable, and 2.0.4 firmware is the latest FW version available for it. The cable comes with a software device driver that also has to be installed on the laptop (Also 32 or 64 bit). Most sellers on Amazon and eBay do not say "Xhorse" or "Xhorse clone". Some of the more expensive sellers do, but not all. If you choose something at FW version 1.4.X or later, you're almost certain to get a clone of the Xhorse design, and the programming firmware. The firmware (programmed into the cable device) is different than the software driver (installed into the laptop's device drivers, to "drive" the cable device by the Win7 OS).

Choosing these latest SW / FW interfaces was a calculated risk. Just because it's later, does not mean "better", nor does it mean it will work on your vehicle. I can now tell you, it worked for me.

I got the cable, Xhorse software driver, and an earlier copy of Techstream SW from here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GD99TDK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(SZ-TONDA Mini VCI Techstream J2534 Cable - V2.0.4 Firmware and V13.10.019 Software TIS Techstream OBD2 K+CAN Code Reader 64bit Scanner Mini-VCI Diagnostic Tool for Lexus Toyota Scion).

Notice I did not install their application software (V13.10.019). It was an earlier version and I was going for later versions.

(As an aside, I think my choice of using a Mini-VCI cable system was the determining factor to cast in stone my diagnostic capability. Because of using the Mini-VCI cable port to the vehicle interface, I think I downgrade to a "non dealer", "Lite" programming / Diagnostic interface).

Next decision up is, where to get the physical blank keys, and which ones? This is fairly well documented above, but I'll summarize what I did:

I bought two blanks from here:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Replacemen...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

(Replacement Key for 13-15 Toyota Rav4 14-16 Prius C V Remote Fob H Chip HYQ12BEL)

The keywords are: "H Chip" and "HYQ12BEL". The "H" is on the blade of an OEM key, and the "HYQBEL" FCC ID is from the fob interior to the OEM key. It's a label on the back of the dongle thingie when you pop open the OEM key.

So, you now have the physical blank keys, the application programming software (Techstream), and the Mini-VCI cable and the software driver for that. Next is to install the software, then cut and program the blanks. That is a three step process: Cut them at a locksmith (preferably at a professional laser cutting station), then program the Immobilizer (The "H" dongle part), then program the Door Lock / Unlock fob (The HYQ12BEL dongle part).

I'll detail those steps next.