Tranny issue?

Yay $1750 CDN later and it's fixed. Can never be something small and cheap of course.

 

Apply more lube if not?

 

FWIW (since it was a worn out clutch and not this valve), Amazon.ca, $13:

Dorman 785-438 Brake Line Union - Inverted Flare - 3/16 In. x M10-1.0 Universal Fit

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004SF3OJM

Or 10 for $20:

$13 4LIFETIMELINES Brass Brake Line Union, 3/16 (M10x1.0 Inverted), 10/bag

https://www.amazon.ca/Brass-Union-Female-Metric-Inverted/dp/B07BN2W68Q

 

I am experiencing some slipping too. Not all the time and I have trouble replicating it so I am going to try this.

 

Go for it man, made all the difference in the world for me, so much more consistent.

@Trident904 make a replacement Hardline that comes with the coupler if you want to go that route.

I just hand bent my existing lines gently and carefully started both ends of the coupler with my fingers before any tools got involved.

I still get chatter when starting to roll once in a while but I think that is due to a worn clutch and probably the protrusion from the transmission that the throwout bearing rides on. When I do my clutch/rear main seal I plan on doing the URD stainless sleave and throw out bearing upgrades.

Also. Doesn't help that the 2nd gen + doesn't have a pilot bearing in the crankshaft.

 

Adjust your clutch pedal first and always first .
The accumulator is a cushion that makes the clutch pedal easier to depress .
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...on-your-6-speed-transmissiom-write-up.338840/

 

I've got a rather unique set up...


I'm currently running an aftermarket alluminum master cylinder as I didn't like how the plastic one swelled under pressure it just felt cheap to me.

Then I have an FJ steel clutch pedal moded for my personal preference in offset and pedal angle. Again because I hated the massive and cheap stock pedal. (No I can get my foot behind the pedal on long trips to stretch out some!)

Then the master cylinder is possitivelly attached to the clutch pedal via an old honda motorcycle rear brake maater cylinder rod clevis.

Lastly I ditched the stock spring for a linier pull up spring like the 1st gen Tacoma (Believe it or not, underneath the dash there's actually a rod with an indent specifically for a linear pull up spring from factory.)

All this to ensure the master cylinder is being brought all the way up. With the stock set up and acumulator valve my pedal would get stuck at the floor, suddenly pop all the way up hard and the master cyl rod would still be down especially when it was below 60°f. So now instead of relying on that weird accumulator valve spring and the return springs in the cylinders as well as the return pressure from the clutch pressure plate my master cylinder with the help of the linear spring essentially pulls the hydraulic fluid back up through the system.

I also have the rod adjusted as far out as it will go to make sure my throw out bearing is as far away from the pressure plate as it can be which is just fine because after removing the accumulator valve I have greater throw.

The clutch disengages fully and completely, and I have much greater clutch feel this way.

Still I'd like to sit down and have lunch with the engineer who designed this system just to pick his brain on what kind of damage he must have had when he drew it up.

If it matters I run 'Dot 4 typ 200' fluid.

 

I have been waiting for a young gentleman like you to come along lmao !!! .

I hate the way the engineers designed this set up . It doesnt work properly . There is no room for clutch adjustment after you get some miles on these critters . If removing the accumulator gives more adjustment , then I will highly recommend removing all accumulators from this day forward .
Problem is , I dont always have a 6 speed Tacoma in the shop . I need some time to mess with one . My next step is a shorter throw out bearing .
A shorter throw out bearing will allow for more clutch adjustment after you get some miles on the truck .
I beleive you are essentially doing the same thing by removing the accumulator .
You have my blessing lol

 

Now , think about the op,s truck .
His complaint was a slow release in the clutch pedal as if it was partially applied . He fealt slipping
Chances are he has been driving it this way for a long time and many many members of tacoma world drive their 6 speeds like this every day and unknowingly continue driving their trucks .
If you drive your truck with the clutch pedal pushed 1/2 way to the floor thinking the clutch is fully applied against the flywheel , what do you think is going to happen to the clutch .
What can you do for now . adjust your clutch pedal and remove that accumulator
There are a lot of people who do not agree with what i am preaching here . I am sorry , its a proven fact

So , the OP is happy that he spent $1750 on a clutch job at 140,000 km ?
Thats 90,000 miles boys and girls . You should be able to get a lot more mileage out of a factory clutch .
I think between removing the accumulator as well as keeping the clutch pedal adjusted , he could have seen many more miles from his clutch .

 

Well thank you!

I've actually been a fan of your detailed posts/work too been reading a lot of your stuff lately and actually ended up getting the Core Hurst Shor Shifter, it's going in today!




All this started because I flushed my black clutch fluid just after I bought the truck and had my nice new amber fluid turn black again in a day, figured my master was all gunked went to pull it to clean it hone it rebuild it, discovered where it was, and that you really can't then after I got over my WTF I started looking for answers.

Those were the answers I came up with after my own searching combined with the knowledge of good gear heads here too!

Going on a year now with no issues.