2016 OVTune Tacoma 3.5L Manual Transmission / Engine ECU Reflash

That sounds about right

 

Hopefully installing my delete this weekend

 

Wow that blows. Does it just grind when trying to put it one of the other gears besides reverse ?
Courious to see how this turns out.

 

Check the piston on your clutch cylinder. It could have slipped off of the clutch fork. I had that happen to me once on a car. Tranny was grinding and wouldn’t go into gear at all. I had reverse though.

 

Made it to JAX... I see where still eating Popcorn! just ckn in

 

It’s a hot topic to me because it happened to my dad. He took the Diesel plunge back in the 80,s. Had a beautiful F350 that we put an aftermarket Banks turbo kit in. He got a tank of Gas in it, made it about 5 miles before the injection pump seized. The struggle is very real, as the people they have pumping gas generally didn’t go to Stanford.

I think I will buy a case of those Dyno-tab octane tablets and keep stashed behind the seat for emergencies. The other fear that I had was being in a remote location in the American West and only having the option for 85-89 octane fuel. Doing research these seem to be more widely used overseas where options on fuel grades are limited.

 

The accumulator delete is something every MT owner should do. Makes a significant difference!

 

The truck goes into any gear with no issues. But when your stopped in 1st and let off the clutch the truck will only pull forward about 6- 12" then slam to a stop. The passenger rear tire is seized and the drivers side front is also binding ( in 2wd). I had the truck towed to Toyota dealership and they have called twice saying that they cannot replicate the issue. I will talk to them 1 on 1 when I get off work. Still baffled that something completely stops working and then work fine again.

Had an issue with my 2 gen manual at 110k miles. The secondary shift fork broke when I was in 6th which destroyed the gears and tranny wouldn't come out of 6th gear. It was cheaper to buy a new tranny with a stag 2 clutch with a warranty than it was buy the parts to fix all the issues.
Thanks for any of your suggestions I'll have to check them out

 

What kit you all using

 

Using the parts from autozone trident used

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/mt-accumulator-delete-and-bs-thread.568303/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/clutch-accumulator-delete-kit.583387/

 

F*ck yeah! The only thing holding me back from doin this mod was bending the solid brake line and making sure i had the right flange on the end of it. This is perfect.

Anyone mind taking me through bleeding the system after ive installed like im an idiot 5 year old? Id much appreciate it!

 

Some guys use the gravity bleed method, which would be the easiest for you if you've never bled brake lines.

• Have a drain pan ready to catch the brake fluid.
• Have a container of new DOT 3 brake fluid ready to go.
  
• Take the cover off of the brake fluid reservoir in the engine compartment.

• Crawl under the truck and crack open the bleeder screw. Fluid will start to drip out.
• 

• Crawl out from under the truck and watch the fluid level in the brake reservoir. You don't want it to empty completely, so add brake fluid as necessary to keep it near the max line.
• I'm not sure how long the gravity bleeder guys are letting it drain to eliminate all of the air, but you have a full bottle of new brake fluid (right?), so you can go as long as you have enough fluid to refill the reservoir to the max line.
• Crawl back under the truck and close the bleeder screw.
• Refill the brake reservoir to the max line if needed.
• Wipe brake fluid off of anything it dripped on.
• Enjoy.

 

I have never done it that way. Very interesting.

Using the pedal to pump out fluid, clutches are slightly trickier than brakes as once you remove pressure, the pedal will either stay at the floor or be very hard to rebuild pressure if any air snuck in.

When I did mine, my daughter was happy to help. I would say that it was fully bleed one the first try (her holding the pedal to the floor, while I cracked and tightened the bleed nipple on the slave, and she pulled the pedal off the floor). Two strokes and the pedal was back to normal pressure. For good measure and just because she was helping, I did it a few more times.

The big deal is clamping the reservoir line while working (seen in the OP of the delete thread). Mine continued to weep very slowly as I worked. This was probably doing a good job keeping any air bubbles from rising? Sort of a gravity bleed.

Whatever folks do, never use a Mity Vac on clutches. You will be pumping for a half hour to get pressure back in the system. Haha!

 

No pumping of the brakes or clutch required? That sounds so ridiculously simple Im kinda surprised that they're using a dot3 instead of dot4... well no it doesnt really. Think its worth a completed flush and swap to dot4?

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/clutch-accumulator-delete-kit.583387/

 

Personally, I prefer having a helper to pump. You wanted the 'explain it like I'm 5' version, so...

Note: if you have a helper pump, put some hose on the bleeder screw, or you'll have a hell of a mess on your hands.

 

Very similar to what I did. I had a small clear tube on the bleeder port to avoid any fluid in the face. Had a helper run the pedal for me. It took about 5 tries. It stayed on the floor every time. Helper had to pull the pedal back up by hand. Then work the pedal by foot a few times to makes sure all was good between opening the bleeder port. I was watching the last air bubble hang up on the 3rd and 4th times. On the fifth time, the air bubble was fully released into the clear tube and my helper mentioned how that last pedal pump felt different. I tightened and re-covered the port. Pulled the pedal up by hand one last time and all has been good ever since.

You do want to release the clamp on the reservoir that feeds the master cylinder before starting the bleeding process. The fluid level dropped about 3/4". As a side note, I did leave the "button" in the reservoir when I topped it off. I'm not really sure how effective it is but it isn't hurting anything.

 

Haha! Good point!


About the only time I can get the fam in the garage is when I need help bleeding something, so the pump method is always my favorite. Speaking of, my 15yr old can't believe that I'd make her change the oil and rotate the tires on her car when she gets it. I am looking forward to that first world torture.

 

Thanks for that, I hope to get mine done tomorrow.

Sometimes I love TW

 

Ordered up the parts from Trident. Going to take my truck in soon for the pedal squeak TSB hoping they replace my pedal cluster and MC before i go messing around with it though. Pedal feels like maybe something funky with the bushings in the MC... super inconsistent. Some days it will be buttery smooth, some days it wont feel much at all, some days it feels almost gritty, either way it's almost always worse when it's cold. Think it's worth trying to bribe the service tech to install it for me and look the other way?