My Audio and Deadening Project

After reading what everyone else has done, I've decided to create my own build thread for my car sound system. I'm going to try to avoid duplicating information that can be found elsewhere on this forum. If you haven't done anything yet, I'd recommend reading http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/audio-video/59941-my-deadening-project.html too.

First of all I want to say there are many ways to skin a cat. What I did for my '09 Access Cab may not be what you want to do, and someone else may do it differently too. There's no right or wrong. It's your truck do what sounds best to you! (pun intended.)http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/at...43524-my-audio-deadening-project-sdc10003.jpg

UPDATE: I ordered 2 boxes of each from RAAMAudio. The BXT II comes in 37.5 sq ft box and the Ensolite 14 sq ft. I had just a little left over of both.

 

I began by buying everything I needed to deaden and create a fantastic showcase. I used RaamMat BXT II for deadening bass vibrations, Ensolite (a closed cell foam(ccf)) for acoustical accuracy, MLV - mass loaded vinyl (1lb/sq ft) as a sound barrier, and a 1/4" CCF as a sound absorber/decoupler for the MLV.

 

I'll be installing a Pioneer AVH-P4200DVD, Focal KRX2 6.5" components, Focal 4.160 Symmetric Amplifier, and a subwoofer which at the point of writing this, hasn't been chosen. Since I have an access cab, I don't have rear speakers, although I discovered you could install them if you were dumb.

 

Sounds like a good start! What are your plans for the rest of the install?

 

After buying everything, my first step was to deaden the doors. I wanted to do this for 2 reasons. 1. So that I could get better midbass response out of my components, and 2. So I wouldn't be a fool driving down the road with a car that sound like a rattle snake.

To remove the door panels read other posts. It's really quite simple. What no one else shows you is exactly what you're working with, so I took some pictures of the door panel clips and where on the door they are all located.

After unscrewing the speaker I made my first mistake with the factory tweeter.

 

The factory tweeter screws are REALLY tight. In my humble opinion DO NOT remove one screw then the other. LOOSEN both first. Otherwise when you try to loosen one with the other side removed, you'll bend or break the thin metal tweeter frame.

The picture shows what NOT to do. again. Loosen both screws first, then remove them.

 

After I took everything out, I put the raammat on the inner and outer door panel. After the BXT, I put the ensolite on top of it all. I may still add MLV, but that remains to be seen. I'm updating as I go along...

 

I almost forgot. I needed seal the giant holes in the door. Some people say don't use aluminum flashing since it's too thin, other say it's fine, some say the holes aren't big enough to matter. I happened to have a whole role of flashing from 5 years ago and if one layer was too thin and flimsy, how about 6?

I cut and contact cemented 5 layers together, then pre-drilled holes and screwed them into the door using self-drilling metal screws.

I then covered the front and back of it with BXT just in case.

 

To remove the access cab door panels, you have to remove the 2 screws, door trim piece and seat belt bolt.

Basically unscrew the screws, and remove their corresponding trim.

Take the lid off the seat belt bolt, and remove that.

Push in the middle of the trim piece then pull that out.

Pry off the door and slide the seat belt through it.

 

Nice with the 6 layer aluminum flashing. I bet it's extremely solid now. Overkill is perfection in the making!

 

It's funny you say overkill, cause I thought to myself... Wait a minute, this might be total overkill....That's exactly why I need to do it. If you want a half-ass job, pay someone to do it. If you want it done right, do it yourself.

 

X2 If you want it done right,do it yourself. looks good so far!!!

 

I figured while I was at it, I should install the radio. I used the scosche dash kit with the factory metal brackets. I don't know why anyone was complaining about fit because mine is great.



Here's the finished BXT... Hopefully BXT + CCF + MLV = overkill.

 

Lesson learned #2. When applying CCF and MLV on the floor, DO NOT just cut a hole for the seats to sit. Instead just cut multiple big floor pieces. Because MLV is so dense (hense the mass loaded part) it doesn't exactly conform very well. So use super 77 (great stuff) and do sections.

I had to go back and cut mine because the seats wouldn't fit properly otherwise.

Oh and I ran the wires. I used Stinger's Level 3 RCA's, 14 AWG Monster speaker wire, and 4 AWG power wire. Although there is some debate on where to run the RCA's and power wire, I figure better be safe than sorry, and I ran them on different sides.

Lesson learned #3, use the channels by the doors as much as possible, then run the wires along the floor of the back seat not under the front seats. (again it prevents the seats from fitting properly.

I will also say I had a hell of a time getting the speaker cable through the little door channel. I found that if I put a glob of vaseline (petroleum jelly) on the start of the wire, it side right through. I'm sure KY would work too
I'll post pictures when the uploader starts working

 

Here are the pics...

 

Looking good man!

I can't wait to get started on my project. I put in an order with Don at SDS yesterday, so this weekend should be tear down time.

 

Dang, wish I had know, we could have split shipping, getting ready to order some of the MLV from him and another 2 yards of ensolite from Rick.

 

How many square feet of MLV did you order?

 

Oh man, good point on the shipping costs. I forgot there was another Jaxson on the forums. Snap some shots during your install. I'll try to remember to do the same.