Double Cardan Driveshaft Failure Ideas

Although! Brainstorm I still have an old Iphone 5 and 6 I can probably use just need to see if they still work!

 

back to the topic:

So the general consensus so far is that I most likely am experiencing excessive axle wrap and that is what I need to check next.

Right?

 

Zip ties and cell phone works

 

Whats the shaft length? Have any of these shops discussed going to standard non CV shaft? You will have to possibly shim the axle to get the proper angles but that is a minor job. I have done this swap and have had no issues.

 

Don't know exact dimensions, but it is the stock short one. I asked them about it BUT as the image illustrates in a previous post. The angle at which the rear axle sits requires the double cardan. IDK if I need to do the shims

 

Yes you would have to change the pinion angle, a couple hours easy work.

Single cab and 4runners pre 95 all ran non cv shafts with no issues. Non cvs can handle more torque and more extreme angles, so its not like you would be stepping backwards in reliability.

I personally run a Tom Woods non cv shaft on the rear of my extra cab, it allowed me to eliminate the CB.

 

I gotta ask just how do you use the truck that your having the failure so often .

How many miles rather then time .

Then I have driveshaft people that rebuild those joints that are still going years later

 

335K miles. Daily driver. Don't do off-roading.

I trust these guys. They have been in business for a long time. I've used them for years as well when I was doing road-side fleet service and took tractor trailer shafts etc to them for repair.

 

With the amount of money I recently spent on this thing just in parts let alone the amount of labor I put in XD I don't think I can afford playing with shims and getting another driveshaft built at the moment. Question is WHY would the double cardan that lasted over 250K miles before it started to fail. Then it can't keep a shaft in more than 25-30K miles before failing?

 

Obviuosly they are using substandard parts. Even if they are sourcing them from the OEM supplier, that supplier has made production changes since 1995 which inadvertantly effected the working lifespan of the part. We see it all the time at the shop. Aisin(oem supplier) waterpumps dont last anywhere as long as they used to. Aisin radiators suck now too. Every part that came from the factory on a first gen tacoma is built better than any part you can buy off the shelf right now, even if it is from the same supplier.

Find a low mileage used shaft and run it. They are still out there.

 

the ting you describe (often called a ping) is something I have had been dealing with for a long time. Eventually what fixed it for me was using the proper molybdenum grease in the slip yoke, as the manual calls for. I had previously been putting whatever grease I had into it (red n tacky, green grease, etc), none of which contained moly. After I put moly grease into it, the ting eventually went away. I think the grease I purchased was some sort of valvoline brand moly grease.

 

Sounds like you may be using what I'm using on mine. Valvoline SynPower Synthetic Automotive Grease. I can only find it on Amazon. I use this for the three grease points on the Cardan, and the rear slip yoke. The remaining universal joints I use the red n tacky.

$11 Valvoline Moly-Fortified Gray Full Synthetic Grease 14.1 OZ Cartridge

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CQ4DK0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Could be it, all I know is it's a very dark grey color.

 

Yes, it is.

Pic from Amazon

 

I use moly NLGI grease, always have...if it is the slip yoke then it might be because I over greased it in the past, which I think I used to do in the past as evidenced by the massive amounts of grease splatter all over the gas tank where the slip yoke spins off the excess. I feel like the 'TING' is coming more toward the front though, maybe a u-joint closer to the trans.

 

Might want to get up under there and try to recreate the noise and see where it's coming from. Lemme see if I can find a thread.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/driveshaft-ping-noise-5-speed.478050/

 

Throw a $20 set of 3 degree pinion shims under your leafs. May need new Ubolts too. This is the cheapest way to fix a pinion angle issue, and it usually works for most.

 

But why should I have to? I rather do it right. and if that involves changing my leaf springs then I will start saving up

 

Anytime you lift, you change your pinion angle. Doesnt matter if its 1",2",5" etc. Axle shims are the proper way of correcting this. The ones I have bolt together with the leaf pack, perfectly safe and like theyre meant to be there.
Only way to go around it is to revert back to an oem spring pack.

 

You should always shim your axle whenever lifting. I got some really nice ones made to spec from 4crawler, but their website is very "early-2000s", good luck navigating it. I had to email back and forth to figure out what I needed.