Power steering help...again

Do you still have an old OEM pump you could rebuild? If so, I would give that a try first. The rebuild kits aren’t very expensive, and it’s pretty easy to do.

 

I do still have the OEM pump. I personally think it was failing originally though because before everything happened I was having a very hard time steering even after bleeding the system with the old pump. I think I put too much strain on it

 

I guess that’s technically the reason for the rebuild kit haha. Any link I could follow to anrebuold kit?

 

I would rebuild that OEM pump and give it a try. I got my rebuild kit from Camelback Toyota. I don’t have a link for you, sorry, it’s on my computer at home, and I am out of town until Saturday. I remember it was hard to find on their web site. It might be easier to just call them. This thread will help https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/power-steering-pump-rebuild-how-to-with-photos.377002/ his is a 4 cylinder and it also has a bearing that needs to be replaced. The 6 cylinder ones are even easier because they don’t have the bearing.

 

Got the new steering rack (had already purchased it when you brought up the OEM Pump Rebuild kit and it needed to be changed because the right boot on the steering rack had holes in it and it was always leaking.). Thanks to that job, I got new MOOG tie rods as well. need to get the wheels aligned tmrw.
I'm going to look up that rebuild kit tmrw and order it. Can't hurt to try and rebuild it and put the original back on. I might also get the magnefine inline filter (I think that's what it's called) and take out the mesh that's in my reservoir.

 

@Gyrkin any chance this is the kit you used for the rebuild?

 

I'd leave that mesh in there. That provides filtration before the fluid goes to the rack, even if you install the Magnafilter, as it is recommended to go on the return line.

 

Ok, I'll keep it in there. I just wasn't sure if it was helping a ton since it is torn around the edge, maybe around like 20% of the edge. Seems like a pain to take it out anyways hah.

 

I replaced my steering rack as well...ordered a new one from Detroit Axle for the same reasons...there was oil all inside the boot...after swapping the rack...and adding fluid...I played the left to right lock out on the steering well until the noises went away

Power steering reservoir has a hot and cold fluid measurement...so I periodically over the next few days had to add fluid until it was just right...either way...haven't had any issues since

 

Nope. That is for the 4-cylinder models and I have a 6. Also the one I got was OEM.

 

@beikokupilot

Sounds like you have tried everything most of us would have tried.

I hate to ask the dumb question, but are you sure this is not just a temp related characteristic of the new pump(or belt) you installed? Are you parking outside and whats the temp when you start it? When it's whining, does the steering feel likes it's tight, or does it feel normal?

First year I bought my 2.7L, PS worked fine all Summer. First really cold morning it started shuddering and whining real bad. Fluid change solved my problem. However, I have owned other vehicles that the pumps made noise on start up in cold weather but performed fine (even when whining) and the warmer months, no noticeable noise.

I vote like others, try the rebuild kit in the OEM.

 

Awesome!! Maybe I’ll just have to give it a few days. Did you have to turn the steering wheel to left and right lock every time you started it for a few days?

 

Oh, what I meant was, does this look like the one I’d wanna get, even if I found the OEM one. Just a bearing and lots of seals? I just wanna make sure I’m not supposed to be looking for something with gears and springs as well

 

I park outside and it gets down into the 20’s. I would’ve thought it was temperature related, but the whining was happening every now and then even when the engine was at operating temp...
definitely going to be rebuilding the OEM pump if that’s the right lit up above. Might even get the OEM one

 

Yes that’s all that’s is in a rebuild kit. I went with OEM parts because the new aftermarket pump I got was noisy. I didn’t want to take a chance that it was noisy because of the aftermarket seals, and then put those same seals in my OEM pump.

 

I guess replacing a pump on a rack and pinion is different than a pump on a regular saginaw steering gear then . I know with a regular steering gear you DO NOT start the motor until the air is bled out. With the tires off the ground turn the steering wheel stop to stop without staying long at the stops . I do it 30 times or better until the fluid don't drop any more and no more bubbles. Then I will start it . Starting it before the air is out aerates the fluid turning it into pink foam then you have to let it sit for a long time to get the foam or risk ruining a new pump. I am just curious as I have never done a pump on a R&P system before and did not think it would be different with a pump that works on the same theory?

 

What's a saginaw steering gear and an R&P system?
I made sure to move the wheel left and right with the engine not running as I was scared, as you mentioned, that I could ruin the pump by possibly running it dry.

 

Saginaw is brand of the most common steering box like in a straight axle configuration. R&P = Rack & Pinion ?
It may pay to google how to bleed a steering pump on a rack and pinion to find out if their is a special way to bleed it compared to a regular steering gear. I watched a u tube on changing the pump on my wife's Buick Enclave and decided to let the dealer do it. It was only $1400.00

 

Holy crap! I've bought cars for less than that....

 

I also, They look at ya with a straight face like thats a good deal too. I bought a pump and installed it from Performance Steering Components for my Jeep that was better built and higher out put than an OE pump for about a 5th of that. If I had a lift Buick would not of got that job but its done and they get it back if its not right.