1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Power Steering Pump Rebuild: How to with photos

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by 98tacoma3rz, Jun 7, 2015.

  1. Jun 7, 2015 at 10:10 AM
    #1
    98tacoma3rz

    98tacoma3rz [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2014
    Member:
    #127440
    Messages:
    506
    Gender:
    Male
    lancaster, pa
    Vehicle:
    2002 Double Cab Trd
    I try to search on replacing the power steering pump bearing online but couldn't find anything. So I thought I would share my experience with it. I call it a rebuild but I only replaced the bearing and seals. Did it on my 98 Tacoma 2.7. I think the 6 cylinder pump is different but probably pretty similar. You can buy a remanufactured pump for about 120 bucks at Autozone but I like to stick with OEM stuff. Cost me about 40 bucks to rebuild mine with OEM stuff.


    So I could tell there was a bad bearing somewhere. I could hear it. I replaced my idler bearings (over 200k miles on them anyway), and my water pump. The idler bearings were pretty close to being shot. Still was making noise so I put my hand on the power steering pump tank while it was running and could feel the vibration. I've heard other tacomas with the 3rz make the same exact sound.

    So I started out by draining the tank. You can use some kind of suction or do what I did. Disconnect the return line and hold a small cup under it. I plugged the return line while draining the resoiver.ps.jpg

    Once now more fluid comes out disconnect the other line. This is a 17mm banjo bolt. Be careful to save the copper washers if you are reusing them. My rebuild kit came with new ones




    ps3.jpg


    Next, you need to remove the power steering pump pulley. I used a 17mm box wrench and put a long screwdriver through one of the holes to lock it in place. Also helps to keep belt on.
    Once you losen the nut. Losen the 14mm bolt on the idler pulley. Then loosen the 14mm bolt on the idler pulley tensioner until you can remove the belt. Might be a good time to replace the belt if need be.
    Remove the pulley nut and remove the pulley. I had to tap it with a rubber mallet.

    Remove the 2 vacuum lines

    There are 2 bolts that hold the pump on. Located below the pump. I think they were 14mm. Remove them, then remove the pump. I placed a rag under the supply line to catch any residual fluid.

    Once the pump is removed, I tipped it upside down to remove remaing fluid.

    It gets a little messy so I would recommend putting some rags or towels on your working surface.

    Remove the (3) 12mm bolts that hold the resoiver on. Carefully remove the tank. Be careful not to damage or lose the O ring that connects the tank to the pump. Although the new seal kit came with a new one.

    There is a good youtube video on cleaning the tank out. There's a small screen inside that gets plugged up. Clean it out well with brake cleaner. As you can see mine was pretty dirty.

    screen].jpg

    Now remove the 2 remaining 12mm bolts. Carefully remove the cover that does NOT have the pump shaft. Make sure it is facing up. If you have it upside down all of the parts will fall out!

    Take pictures or notes on how it is assembled.
    Remove the spring (not sure what it's called. Keeps pressure on the housing. Like a lock washer.

    housing.jpg

    There are 2 O rings that came out with the housing.

    Next removing the "race" that holds the actual pump. BE VERY CAREFUL AS THERE ARE TINY PIECES TO THE PUMP. They shouldhousing2.jpg stay together.


    I wrapped some masking tape around the pump to hold everything together. Then remove it carefully.

    Next flip the pump over. Remove the snap ring that holds the shaft in. Flip it back over and tap the shaft with a brass punch and hammer until it comes out. As you can see mine looks pretty crappy.


    bearing.jpg


    Next, there is another snap ring. Remove it. This was kind of a pain. The seal kit comes with a new one if you destroy it.

    bearing2.jpg

    Remove the bearing with a deep socket or something similarbearing remove.jpg


    I called my local Yota dealer and got the bearing for 20 bucks 90080-36085 was my part#.

    I bought the pump seal kit on Ebay for 20 bucks shipped. Not OEM but looks to be good quality.
    Next, I removed the seal in the pump. Tapped a new one in gently with a rubber mallet and a deep socket. A little ATF fluid helps ease it on.

    Reassemble the entire unit. Should be pretty self explanatory. The metal gasket can only go on 1 way. If incorrect it will partially block one the passages. I used a thin layer of black rtv on both sides of gasket. Snug all the bolts pretty tight. I have no idea what the torque specs are.

    final.jpg

    Reinstall the new pump and fill the tank with Dexron ATF. I used Mobil 1 synthetic. Hook up all the belts and hoses. Start the truck. Let it run for a few minutes. Shut it off then check the fluid. Fill to the cold mark. Start it again and turn the wheels back and forth. This will bleed the system. Check fluid again and make sure there are no leaks. Started it up. Much quieter! Good for another 200k miles!

    seal kit.jpg
     
    chrslefty, SwampYota, Poncate and 4 others like this.
  2. Jun 7, 2015 at 10:13 AM
    #2
    98tacoma3rz

    98tacoma3rz [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2014
    Member:
    #127440
    Messages:
    506
    Gender:
    Male
    lancaster, pa
    Vehicle:
    2002 Double Cab Trd
    No, I didn't do spell check and No I don't know the correct term for everything and I'm sure I left some things out. I would be happy to answer and questions. I'm an Electrician with a decent mechanical aptitude just trying to help other people. After all, that's what this forum is for!
     
    MTopp likes this.
  3. Jun 7, 2015 at 10:27 AM
    #3
    Tacoma Mike

    Tacoma Mike 48 Year Toyota Master/ASE Master Tech. RETIRED

    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2011
    Member:
    #61230
    Messages:
    23,539
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mike
    Southern Maine
    Vehicle:
    2011 Double Cab V6
    Large Storage Box, 02610 intermittent switch swap, "Hot Wire" Power Outlets, DRL Shut Off, Disable Fob Beep, Disable Seat Belt Buzzers, Parking Light Mod, Battery Tender, 4 Leaf Spring Pack, Rear Headrest Removal, Factory Tow Package (7 Pin) Rear Diff Mod, Taco Lean Mod, 2WD Low ECU.
    Nice job on the procedure and explanation.
    No need to get defensive on your great effort.
    I'm sorry if you felt the need to say that.
     
  4. Jun 7, 2015 at 10:35 AM
    #4
    98tacoma3rz

    98tacoma3rz [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2014
    Member:
    #127440
    Messages:
    506
    Gender:
    Male
    lancaster, pa
    Vehicle:
    2002 Double Cab Trd

    I don't get on here as much as I would like. Why you may ask? There are so many people who I call "forum police" Who will tell you things like " search the newbie section!". or "I did a search and found the answer right away" It's just annoying. The forum is for helping people out. Not criticizing. I do understand opinions and constructive criticism. But I have found lots of great information on here. So I just thought I would give back. Sorry if I sound defensive.
     
  5. Jun 7, 2015 at 10:41 AM
    #5
    Tacoma Mike

    Tacoma Mike 48 Year Toyota Master/ASE Master Tech. RETIRED

    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2011
    Member:
    #61230
    Messages:
    23,539
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mike
    Southern Maine
    Vehicle:
    2011 Double Cab V6
    Large Storage Box, 02610 intermittent switch swap, "Hot Wire" Power Outlets, DRL Shut Off, Disable Fob Beep, Disable Seat Belt Buzzers, Parking Light Mod, Battery Tender, 4 Leaf Spring Pack, Rear Headrest Removal, Factory Tow Package (7 Pin) Rear Diff Mod, Taco Lean Mod, 2WD Low ECU.
    I totally understand.
    Just to let you know it is appreciated.
    And the ignore button can be used to your advantage.
     
    phoenix ray likes this.
  6. Oct 4, 2015 at 10:01 AM
    #6
    Soflanick

    Soflanick Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2015
    Member:
    #158451
    Messages:
    1,252
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Nick
    FLORIDA
    Vehicle:
    2001 tacoma prerunner
    5100 front, 5125 rear, 2"all, old ARE topper, 16x8 XD enduro's on 265/75r16 KO2's
    thank you for the write up. Would you happen to have the part # to the idler bearings?
     
  7. Oct 5, 2015 at 2:22 AM
    #7
    98tacoma3rz

    98tacoma3rz [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2014
    Member:
    #127440
    Messages:
    506
    Gender:
    Male
    lancaster, pa
    Vehicle:
    2002 Double Cab Trd
    The bearing on the power steering pump? 90080-36085
     
  8. Oct 5, 2015 at 3:04 AM
    #8
    Soflanick

    Soflanick Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2015
    Member:
    #158451
    Messages:
    1,252
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Nick
    FLORIDA
    Vehicle:
    2001 tacoma prerunner
    5100 front, 5125 rear, 2"all, old ARE topper, 16x8 XD enduro's on 265/75r16 KO2's
    Negative, to the idler pulley bearings ... You said you rebuilt those first .

    My truck has a squeaking sound coming from the power steering pump that goes away as I turn the wheel. Sounds like metal to metal. I'm guessing the bearing.
    My idler pulleys are shot too.
     
  9. Oct 5, 2015 at 4:24 AM
    #9
    gearcruncher

    gearcruncher Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2012
    Member:
    #90305
    Messages:
    6,874
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Canadain bumper technician
    Great white North 51.0333° N, 93.8333° W
    Vehicle:
    2010.TRD.SportDCLB4x4Limited leather package
    TRD Sport Rally -5 speed automatic Limited ,Factory heated leather seats ,chrome package,Super white with front windows tinted to 35 % Dick Cepek DC-2 wheels Summer tires - Good year silent armor P265/65R17 Winter tires - Good year P265/65R17 Ultra Ice studded Illuminated 4x4 switch TRD 3rd brake light cover ($20) TRD seat belt shoulder protectors (5). ($50) TRD ...B pillar emblems ($20) TRD rear slider sticker with devil horns ( $6) TRD summer floor matts ($60) TRD steering wheel emblem ($20) TRD floor pedals .($95) TRD shorty antenna ($14) TRD front Windshield emblems ($17) TRD head pillows .($60) TRD head rest protectors TRD door scuff protection $20 TRD floor matt emblems ($40) TRD tow plug emblem . ($40) TRD cigarette lighter with LED.($35) TRD tissue dispenser ($12) TRD front bezel emblems ($9) TRD door emblems ($6) TRD lanyards($9) TRD lisence plates with TRD bolts($50) TRD fender emblems TRD center caps Part Number:PT904-35070-CC ($80) TRD cd
    I think the OP did an excellent job of explaining the rebuild . The pics were good as well . We need to see more posts like this .
     
    burntkat likes this.
  10. Oct 5, 2015 at 6:09 AM
    #10
    pulldo

    pulldo Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2014
    Member:
    #124586
    Messages:
    441
    Gender:
    Male
    houston, texas
    Vehicle:
    95 dlx, 2.7l, 4wd, 5 spd.

    ditto,, definitely a keeper
     
  11. Nov 10, 2015 at 9:35 AM
    #11
    quetzal

    quetzal Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2014
    Member:
    #128011
    Messages:
    1,479
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mario
    Long Beach, CA
    Vehicle:
    '02 XtraCab SR5 TRD 4x4 5spd
    All-Pro UCAs, King 2.5 C/Os, All-Pro Expo Leafs, Bilstein 10" Shocks
    Marking - I'll be back with questions once I begin to tackle this project. Thanks for the info, makes me feel better about doing it myself. :cool:
     
  12. Nov 10, 2015 at 6:19 PM
    #12
    Laxtoy

    Laxtoy Dog is my backseat driver

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2015
    Member:
    #148610
    Messages:
    570
    Gender:
    Male
    Over here, nearly there
    Vehicle:
    99 3.4l 5 speed 4wd
    Donahoe CO's w/ 700lb King Coils, Camburg uca's, T-100 rear leafs, 13WL Tundra brakes, 1" 4crawler body lift, 295/75/16 Hankook MT, Ruff Stuff u bolt flip, 10" Fox shocks turned back on custom mounts, 2” clearanced spare tire crossmember in stock location, Skid Row front and transfer case skid, home built transmission skid, Mercerfab sliders, home built front bumper, 4.56's, ARB rear locker, home built rack with CVT Mt. Bachelor, eBay snorkel, Sierra LEDs 20" dual light bar, Morimoto XB led fogs, Mini D2S projector retrofit, Blue Sea ML-ACR, dual Odyssey PC1200's, Badlands Apex 12k winch with synth line
    An article someone actually posted some real tech? Awesome!! The last one I was reading was somebody who said, "How to rebuild xxxx" and as I intently watched to see what I needed to see he said, "Step 4: Take xxxx to machine shop to do actual work."
     
    burntkat likes this.
  13. Nov 11, 2015 at 2:14 AM
    #13
    98tacoma3rz

    98tacoma3rz [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2014
    Member:
    #127440
    Messages:
    506
    Gender:
    Male
    lancaster, pa
    Vehicle:
    2002 Double Cab Trd
    Glad you guys like the write up. I'm all about rebuilding or repairing stuff if possible. Especially OEM stuff.
     
    phoenix ray and burntkat like this.
  14. Feb 4, 2019 at 11:17 AM
    #14
    beikokupilot

    beikokupilot Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2018
    Member:
    #264452
    Messages:
    157
    Gender:
    Male
    Utah
    Vehicle:
    1997 Red Tacoma 4WD
    Power steering pump, Steering rack, Tie rods, Radiator cap, Thermostat, New radiator, magnets to hold the fuel door closed, new starter drum/cylinder, dash lights changed to red, replaced all carpet in the cab. Not real “mods”, but all work
    @98tacoma3rz Quick question for ya! I'm going to edit this post so I can find it quicker with my phone to add photos. It's about the seal, and if you remember it goes.

    Okay, so I got my pump taken all the way apart. Found out where all the O-rings and seals go except for one. Is this where this seal goes?
    I’m just checking before I rip the seal that’s in there out. Thanks in advance!

    85A3FBCA-11CE-4D31-BE70-FDE24E327A8C.jpg
    7A3FFB40-42C7-4E40-9A14-A854F9490867.jpg
     
  15. Feb 4, 2019 at 12:21 PM
    #15
    beikokupilot

    beikokupilot Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2018
    Member:
    #264452
    Messages:
    157
    Gender:
    Male
    Utah
    Vehicle:
    1997 Red Tacoma 4WD
    Power steering pump, Steering rack, Tie rods, Radiator cap, Thermostat, New radiator, magnets to hold the fuel door closed, new starter drum/cylinder, dash lights changed to red, replaced all carpet in the cab. Not real “mods”, but all work
    Nevermind! Found my answer. It is yes. Had to be very careful and punch it out. I loved your idea of holding things in the vice grip with a glove! I never thought of that. Wish I had known that method when I was changing out my Rack and Pinion because the cotter pin was stuck inside my tie rid and I ruined the threading putting it in a vice at 2 am o_O, so I got new tie rods.
    You pictures and step by step were very helpful. Thank you for this post!
     
  16. Feb 10, 2019 at 4:44 AM
    #16
    98tacoma3rz

    98tacoma3rz [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2014
    Member:
    #127440
    Messages:
    506
    Gender:
    Male
    lancaster, pa
    Vehicle:
    2002 Double Cab Trd
    Hey sorry just saw your questions. I honestly couldn't remember lol. Looks like you've got it figured out. lol I used a glove because I didn't have any rags.
     
    beikokupilot likes this.
  17. Feb 10, 2019 at 11:51 AM
    #17
    beikokupilot

    beikokupilot Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2018
    Member:
    #264452
    Messages:
    157
    Gender:
    Male
    Utah
    Vehicle:
    1997 Red Tacoma 4WD
    Power steering pump, Steering rack, Tie rods, Radiator cap, Thermostat, New radiator, magnets to hold the fuel door closed, new starter drum/cylinder, dash lights changed to red, replaced all carpet in the cab. Not real “mods”, but all work
    Not a problem! Yeah I used a punch very carefully from the other side. It slipped and I saw the same spring as what was in my new seal, then I went to town.
    Still whining like it did with the brand new pump in it, but at least I’ll get my $150 back. Next step will be to add a magnefine filter and call it good if that doesn’t work. Power steering still works and that makes me happy haha
     

Products Discussed in

To Top