Wishbone Runner's Build

How many ugga dugga's is that?

 

At least 4 with a couple brapp brapps thrown in for good measure

 

Knocked it our yesterday, pretty easy job. I acidentally ugga dugga’d the nut off and forgot to count turns, but reused the same one and was quite easy to get it back to where it was with the groove in the pinion. So far so good.

 

Congrats James! Hope you guys are doing good!

Bobby

 

Bummer on the rear seals and parking cable. Sounds like the seals were easy to tackle though.

 

Undertook sonr tracker case maintenance, had an oil leak from the actuator which after some research was caused by a small oring between the actuator and case, and possibly 2 seals on the shift rods. Of course this requires pulling the entire case, breaking it open, pulling a ton of crap apart etc, all for $8 worth of seals and oring. Followed this write which was close, but was for the 8 banger and the V6 case has another rod for 2=>4x.









Went fairly well other than finding a broken tooth in the case that seems to have come from one of the pleantary gears/rings, not sure what it’s function is, everything was working well prior to disassembly. @thefatkid any ideas of how bad this is?



In the first one below you can see the tooth missing, and in the second one of the teeth in place, the should be three total.

 

It is keying for the syncro for smooth open to locked center differential operation. I've never seen one broken so I can't comment on how it will affect operation.

 

Hmm, can that key be replaced by itself? Never had issues so far . . . Maybe a new baller Tcase is in my future. Anyone know what happened to Inchworm? Seemed to have disappeared off the face of the earth. Marlin doesn’t seem to make the lefty anymore and Atlas are stupid expensive.

 

Anything can be replaced, I'm not sure that would require any press work. I'll look more the next time I have one out.

Inchworm was a part of Lowrange Off road. Think partners of sorts. Lowrange sold to TrailGear but heard nothing of Inchworm. It is like they disappeared.

 

Couldn't drive because the rear diff or something locked up in the transfer case?

 

So in the FJ case when twin sticking you have those three keys that can fall out. They aren’t broken but can fall out if not aware of. A dab of grease will old them in while assembling everything. Rocksolidtoys has a write up on their site back in the day but the forum is gone. Not sure if it’s on here tho in their sub forum

Maybe @awsumdc can chime in

 

Can you drive with nothing supporting the rear axles in the center. They don't contact the housing? Obviously just to get off the trail.

 

So are you saying they are easily accessible/replaceable? It looked like there was a clip on the end of the shaft that they were on, is everything else pressed on from there or do they just slide right off.

Regardless it is going back on the truck today, if it is fucked I may go FJ for the time being, can’t fork out for anything nicer right now.

 

Been looking at them all morning, found a bunch of newer 4R cases for ~$250 with free shipping, without twin sticking them only other mod is the ADD switch/harness for $30. Will probably go this route if mine explodes then fix it up at some point. Sigh.

 

Yeah, but that doesn’t fix any Tcase issues, wish I could find a Lefty.

It’s back together and works, sort of. It seems I’ve lost AWD, turning the knob to 4 results in blinking, but the truck is in 4wd, binding on sharp turns. Then hitting the diff lock button stops blinking and VSC off appears, no change in functionality. 4lo works as well, but will not go into it while blinking. Should have left the damn thing alone, going to start collecting parts for a manual case down the road.

 

Called Low Range, Inchworm is no more. So the only single case options are the Atlas or an FJ/4R manual which can have a taco box added. I feel like the Atlas is a better/simpler option, but $$$$.

 

You might reach out to inchworm on the facetubes. Not sure how the split went down with LowRange selling to Trail Gear

 

They legit are out of business, any contact info for them is LowRange

 

Yeah, that link I posted covers most of it, I would need to open it back up, or the actuator, neither of which I’m up for so long as I have 4 h/l I’m done fuckin with it til I get something better.

Taco box needs both shafts altered as it pushes the Tcase back, so rear shorter, front longer.

 

Really wish someone made a clocking adapter for the stock case, Bud used to, but no more.