Ceiling Switch Panel?

I work in oil rigs once in a while and on the supply vessels. I deal with the engine controls, generator controls and power management. Basically anything woodward or Basler.

 

Nice, my boats are mainly GE or Siemens but I’ve seen many different systems.

 

Woodward makes controls for Caterpillar, cummins, seimens, GE etc. They are just rebranded.

What do you do on board?

 

Damn that's cool. I bet that is one helluva process getting all that completed. Anywho, thanks for responding

 

I pulled the headliner back to see if there would be enough space for a switch panel.

The hump comes down is about 1 inch from the level of the map light mount.



Looks like there's about 1 5/8 inches from the level of the headliner to the roof.





So in total there's 2 5/8 inches of room behind the hump for the back of the switches. Could probably pull the roof down slightly to get some more clearance for the back of the switches if needed.

Here's the 4 map light screws you could tie the switch panel into. Could always use self tappers anywhere in the map light area too.



In conclusion, looks like getting a switch panel in there would be no problem. Wires can run under the headliner to the A-pillar and down the inside of the A-pillar.

I think I might try making something next weekend.

 

Nice...how deep are the switches everybody uses around here (OTTRAW or something like that)...with connectors and everything not a lot of room...

 

I'm planning on using this, with custom labeled rockers eventually.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Gang-Blu...ker-RV-for-Auto-Car-Marine-Boat-/401548285999

Should have plenty of room with the wires bent over, could even bend the connectors at a 90 on the end of the wire to get a little more room.

 

Some switch panels I did. I like to ise these round switches. They are rated at 5amps and have a smaller profile on the back. The only thing is thay you need to memorize what its for but its mich cleaner looking I think.

 

I'm not sure on the exact years, but 96-02 4runners are "3rd gen" which are the same gen as "1st gen" tacomas.

 

Have you looked at the OTRATTW L Series switches? Much nicer looking switch in my opinion.

https://www.otrattw.net/L-SERIES-ROCKER-SWITCH/

 

I have, I just can't afford do drop $100 into switches at the moment. Eventually that's the route I'm going to go.

 

If you put as much as you can into relays you can get away with thin wire like 22guage which will take up a lot less space.

Also, I suggest you color code everything on your wires. It'll make life a lot easier. All my wires that involve my fridge are blue, bumper HID's are orange, rooftop light bar are yellow, aux fuel tank are white, aux reverse lights are purple, inverter is red. It makes trouble shooting super easy.

You can find GXL wire on Ebay that's multiple colors in all kinds of gauges. And get colored shrink wrap too.
I think I got most of mine from wire barn on ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/usr/wire.barn?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754

Also, good connectors can be bought from https://www.corsa-technic.com/

Here's what I did with mine. If switch pros had been out when I put this together I would have gone that route. Much cleaner, easier, more functional and the same cost.

 

Check out this one from @sander1036

Here is link to his post #882 & 895

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/sanders-02-dc-build.173699/page-45

 

Thanks for all the info. I like the idea of running as small wire as possible from the relay into the cab. Do you have any links to a relay that can run 22 guage wire?

 

22 gauge wire is super thin. Id use atleast a 18-16 gauge to drive a relay.

 

I think you can use any auto relay.
I used these below. The mounts on them suck. There are probably better ones.
5 Pack - EPAuto 30/40 AMP Relay Harness Spdt 12V Bosch Style

$16 EPAuto 30/40 AMP Relay Harness Spdt 12V, 5-PIN SPDT Bosch Style - 5 Pack

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017VDI0GY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4cXHCbG4742WT

I used one of these for my inverter.

ESUPPORT Car Auto Heavy Duty Split Charge DC 12V 100A 100 AMP SPST Relay 4 Pin 4P RL180

$12 ESUPPORT Car Auto Heavy Duty Split Charge DC 12V 100A 100 AMP SPST Relay 4 Pin 4P RL180

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012N09BFE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_teXHCbD6DST6X

Agreed, 22 is probably too thin.

I just looked at my purchase history.
I used 18 gauge, not 22.

 

Okay I'll use 18 gauge then. Thanks for the links.

I think this project is going to get put on the back burner for a bit while a save up for a roadtrip in a couple weeks, but I'll get on it when I get back and post some pictures when I'm done.

 

Doesn't take much to trigger a relay. Why wouldn't 22 gauge work?

 

Its not that it wont work, its that its not the correct wire to use. Those rocker switches are rated at 5 and 10 amps. The wire should be rated higher than what the switch is for a rule of thumb with a margin for high inrush current. The values below will deminish as you use long runs of wire and even less if its running in a bundle. Also, if you run say 5 amps through a 22 gauge wire, it will get nice and warm.

22 Gauge 6.3 amps
20 Gauge 8.9 amps
18 Gauge 11.4 amps
16 Gauge 13.9 amps

 

I thought the rating was for running power through the switch. If you were only using the switch to trigger a relay, you only need like 0.1 amps.