Long Travel BS Thread

It would, but this guy has asked every question 2-3 times and gotten good answers every time. His truck has been in multiple fab shops because they either screwed something up, or he burned bridges. He took it away from the west coast which has more than enough qualified shops and took it back east to have a shop that specializes in rock bouncers try to finish and completely change his desert truck build. And no one has seen an updated pic of the truck in 1.5yrs. I think @Evenflow is just annoyed he popped in asking a question that he has gotten the answer for several times and seems to expect it to be different now.

 

Gotcha.

My response is irrelevant then. Disregard.

 

Rocking 700#

 

Yes sir, you are correct the leverage ratio is different in every possible scenario where any of the dimensions are changed but the primary factors are the length of the link and the distance from the front of the link to the CO.

 

I'm not annoyed, it's just that the question has been posed so many times that I truly wonder if the basic geometry / math is understood so I wanted to throw together that diagram to help explain it in very basic terms w/ somewhat of an extreme example.

 

I don’t have a heavy bumper, and I’m running 600# on my Fox’s with thier LT Kit. If you plan on a plate bumper or winch, I’d go with 650# or 700#. I believe most with just tube prerunner style bumpers stay with 600#

 

I still don't know what I'm doing, not sure if I'm the man you want around your house haha

 

Before any of the suspension design savy crowd get off work today and chime in about this - please understand that the CO angles I sketched are bad, you want your CO to " hang" as close to 90 as possible when at full droop. Again, my sketch is just diagrammatic to show the basic principles.

 

LOL

 

You’re silly

My truck is in Beaumont California
I brought it from Kentucky
Rock bouncers are not my cup of tea but I do appreciate you chipping in.

And as for updates
There are plenty
I just didn’t shove them in your face cause they are on Instagram and on my build thread
Why clutter here.


Yes
I have asked about short course vs traditional for my truck.
I was legit asking about the short course trucks not a prerunner or rock bouncer
Like
The actual short course trucks.

I asked cause dem bishes huck through that course and it seem’d ample for that application but I wondered why it was designed that way if it’s so inefficient

Yes that was helpful, no I didn’t/don’t quite understand the math.

I was genuinely referring to a short course truck though not a prerunner

Short course prep has already started this season for a couple guys so the question popped up

 

yea still no pictures since last year lol

 

Still waiting to save up money to buy more crap like a 3rd member for the full floater, new gears for the front 3rd member, fuel cell, fiberglass when it eventually goes to Mcneil

 

build it... go go go go

 

wheres the cage

 

In my imagination and my wallets wishes.
Money has been tight so every aspect of the truck has been slowwwww.

I’m quite torn on a couple aspects of the build and what direction I should go.
Got people on here suggesting one thing and got experienced friends also making suggestions, they both clash obviously cause nothing is easy

Might cage it.... might light it on fire and Buy a smart car

 

smart car for life

 

For sure.

 

Short course trucks and thier setups are run really stiff, the courses are relatively smooth other than the jumps...
The rules in those racing classes limit the allowed suspension travel as well.
With a almost 1:1 motion ratio you dont really have to stack the valving as much as you do with a traditional trailing arm linked setup.

As far as packaging goes a short course linked truck will have the coilover sticking out above the bed by alot and is gunna look goofy(in my opinion) where normal links they run nice tucked against the cab and about flush with the bed line...aesthetically cleaner looking.

Advantage of short course is the links are stupid sinple... just tubes and depending on how u set your anti squat up you have better ground clearance by a couple inches. Whereas traditional canoe style links hand down some. But sliding em on Rick's really isn't an issue when u build em with enough beef..they act like rock sliders...soooo the advantage is really pretty minimal.

If you want to keep bed space I'd suggest a 3 link setup with the panhard bar like the one dirt designs does... if bedspace or a bed isnt a factor either do a triangulated 4 link or 3 link wishbone like I did.

Now if u want to get into 4 link vs 3 wishbone... you are able to get a better triangulation on the axle since the frame rails are really only so wide (44"). And the wishbone trucks seem to have a lil better anti roll characteristics inherently built into the design.

Hope this helps

 

So with my dilemma that I brought up before about my air filter becoming a dust ball and although there are some soilid renditions for below the hood, thinking about making a snorkel. I have never wanted to go this route cause I hate the look, but this thread has motivated me and to be honest, I wonder if I did similar to him and powder coated my pipe work the same color of my truck if that would be kind of cool vs the black. This is an older thread, but the construction of it turned out pretty well and the minimal piping coming from the fender is what I like instead of the big chunk on the side when our fenders already stick out enough.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/snorkel-and-fiberglass-fenders.186200/page-4

 

@sytfu510 has done it best imo https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/supercharged-linked-long-travel-taco.176526/