Pulls to the right when breaking and hub doesnt spin freely

Don't go poly energy, itimade it worse thats why i went oem. The bushings on the lcas have to be really stiff so they don't torque.

Also the LCA with bushings already pressed in from Toyota was the same cost as two OEM bushings for some stupid reason, which is why I went with them.

 

Ya know something..now that you mention it I did also have to replace the lower control arm for this exact reason. I had a buddy of mine walk next to the truck while I moved slowly across a parking lot, applying the brakes. You could clearly see the wheel shifting rearward in the opening, essentially toeing out out as you described.

 

Yeah honestly it's a sleeper.
But because of these vehicles age it should not be overlooked. It took me two months and about 1500$ to properly diagnose and fix. Cost me so much cause by the time I found it I had replaced everything else. Lol

Cost to do both control arms was like 480$ CAD

 

Update: completed the tundra caliper break up grade and bleed all the lines. still pulls to the right when I break. is it possible that i still have some kind of air in my lines?
I did figure out while the rotor appeared to be warped when I spun it. Their was a very small amount of rust build up on only one part of the hub which caused the rotor to not sit perfectly flush. For whatever reason I took a wire wheel to the hub to clean it up and once i did that, part of the problem when away. Shout out to @12TRDTacoma for telling me to keep it simple lol definitely over thought that problem.
When I put new suspension on the front I replaced the lower control arm bushing. (it was a pain in the ass and low key dangerous to press the old ones out) I put moog bushing on. pretty much the whole front end is new. Im going to take it to an alignment shop again and see if that possibly fixes it because i dont know what to do anymore. the only other thing i can think of is possibly having a bad cv axle on the passenger side but its only about a year old (if that) and im not sure if that would cause the truck to pull. Im also planning on putting some poly bushing on my rack and pinion but again, i dont think that will do anything in regard to the pull. I already bought the poly energy bushing but i will definitely look into whiteline @frenchee

 

No You don't have air in your lines. Did you check the caliper floating pins and make sure they moved freely? If they bind you'll get weird issues.

 

@KkelX4 I just checked the lower control arm bushing and I believe you are correct. They dont look to be in good shape and the arm does shift forward and backward when I have a buddy turn the wheel. Thats really frustrating considering I did replace the bushing. any suggestions on what i should replace the bushing with or replacing the whole lower control arm (I know someone advised against it. I know @frenchee suggested whiteline as well. Suggestions?

 

I went same root, aftermarket, it didn't solve the problem. Which is why eventually I just threw my hands in my air called Toyota, said take all my money, and give me two new control arms(because they have the bushings pressed in). And also cause two control arms were only 100$ more than 4 OEM bushings and I wasn't doing that bullshit again.

 

All the after market bushings I could get my hands on were 7-10 thou of an inch smaller than OEM spec. Some as much as 15. I spent 10 min at the counter while they got them all and measured each one. That was after I had installed them and was re-determining my problem while contemplating getting OEM arms.

Aftermarket is good for a lot on that truck, but those bushings... gotta be OEM. the only improvement I made was to use aftermarket cam bolts that were cheaper than the Toyota ones. Unfortunately they were a different diameter so I made sleeves for them out of SS tubing on a lathe, 60000km and no issues.

 

well shit. guess i just need to bite the bullet and get some OEM LCA from Toyota considering that seems to be my best option.
I did put these after market cam bolts on

$55 MOOG K100127 Alignment Caster / Camber Kit for Toyota Tacoma

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GV0P1FW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I didnt think their was a problem with them when i installed them but I could be wrong

 

You can drop one control arm down and see how tight they are in the bushing.

If I remember correctly, OEM was a c-hair over 3/4" ID. The camber bolts I got were just over 1/2" OD so I used 1/8 wall 3/4 SS tube to make up the differences. I also cut the tubing 1/8 wider than the bushings so that when the cam bolts were tightened, the sleeve was acting as a crush shaft, preventing the bushing from binding and allowing the LCA to droop easier. It worked really well but was alot of effort.

Check for slop between your cam bolt and bushing.

 

Here is the thread I was reading.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lca-bushings-oem-energy-suspension-whiteline.394935/

 

@frenchee thank you for posting the link to the treat! took me a little while but i just read though the whole thread. Now i just have to make a decision on what to buy. Only three options, ES, Whiteline, or OEM. I feel like i need to go ES or Whiteline because i go wheeling fairly often and need the travel. @KkelX4 I know you recommended against it but I honestly cant afford OEM at the moment. Thank you for everything that you took the time to write though!

 

Come back and let us know how the ES was then.
Thanks

 

Long story short I ended up going with the white line. I now how to redo my lower control arm bushing since they are making a loud popping sound whenever I turn. Note sure if it is due to the product or user error. I am going to do the energy suspension conversion and see how that goes

 

also. the mogg camber caster bolts are absolute garbage btw. They dont fit together well and you will end up wallowing something on them out

 

I thought I posted a response to my issue but I did not. my apologies. Here is what happened. The rotor wasn't sitting flush due to a small amount of rust on the hub assembly which was causing the rotor to rub on the pads. The truck was pulling to the right when I hit the break because I somehow managed to bend the lower control arm. Since the arm was bent, it allowed the arm to shift forward and throw off my alignment hard. Fix everything and have not had any problems

 

Good to hear it, now if only i could get rid of the steering wobble in my wifes runner....

 

I also thought I had posted a response. Guess I didn't.
I got the whiteline bushings. My alignment issue and the pull while braking is completely gone. I can't believe it was these all along.
The bushings didn't look bad when I removed them either... And that was a pain to push the bushings out.

 

I had some play in steering wheel which was dude to the two piece steering column. I took the whole thing apart and put two tack welds where they meet and it made a world of difference. I dont have the link to a write up but i know someone did one on here

 

The damn pull is back.
WHATTTTTTTTTTT THE HECK