TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I’ve had my harrop elocker for a little over 2 years now no issues, granted it’s in the rear and not the front, but it’s been reliable, no space needed for air compressor or tank, just a button. I don’t think you will regret going harrop over arb.

 

I grenades the front and rear diff on a 4th gen 4Runner With no damage at all the to CVs. It sounds like they are the weak point but I can attest that it is possible to grenade a diff without damaging CVs. That being said, I still believe from my expierince that harrop is a reliable locker, more so than arb? I can’t really say since I have not run arb, but with mine I’ve had no issues with oil leaks, air leaks because it’s electric. It’s been there when I’ve needed it.

 

It makes me wish Eaton would make a Trutrac for the front differential. They’re basically bulletproof.

 

I have Harrops in both of my 80’s (front and rear). I don’t wheel as hard as you, but they’re awesome.

 

In my case, I already have the twin compressor, tank, and air chucks run to the front and rear of the truck. That makes having to install a tank a moot point. Certainly something to consider on initial install however.

I also just went to 37s on steel wheels with weld on beadlocks. That’s 130 lbs per corner. I installed RCVs as well. I HOPE the axles are not the weak point...

I had my mind made up to switch to the Harrop until Chase reccomended sticking with the ARB.

He knows my setup though. We both realize I’m already pushing the limits of that front diff. I can’t afford to loose even a little bit of strength at this point.

I’m sure the Harrop is a great locker. @Sub-Zero is running one up front on 37s. Aluminum wheels though. I will be running one too if the ARB leaks again.

 

Anyone have a write up or video on how to remove the needle bears or rotors on the superchargers for a 2014 Taco?

 

Link on the first post. Just used that thread to do mine.

 

I see how to remove the impeller assembly, but we are trying to remove the actual rotors to inspect it. Same with the needle bearings inside the housing.

 

Oh. Sorry

 

https://youtu.be/OGVNta5p7wk

https://youtu.be/x7zPNqXUPRU

https://youtu.be/aSy28MmLGlI

 

1 side done! Only took 10 months.



Look at the flow on these bad boys!

 

I did on mine. I put some pictures in the S/C maintenance thread I thought.

You will need a blind hole seal puller. Sometimes they pop right out but other times they are tough. Warmer weather should help. The bearings are a cup and completely enclosed so you won’t hurt the housing with the puller. I ripped out the nylon housing and burred mine up a little to reduce the rigidity. Once I locked in the puller, I was hoping for one big hit but realized about one hundred smaller taps do the trick much better and will probably result in less injury like my thumb. Beware the bypass valve on the back of the housing since you can easily bend it out of tolerance while conducting this removal. Once they pop out, put a dab of anti seize on the new ones before taping them in. A 3/8” ratchet extension fit perfectly inside mine to drive them in. They must be inset at least .0020” but they can be found as deep as .0060” from stock. I went in around .0044” with one and .0038” on the other. Hope this helps.

This is a great thread as well.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/trd-s-c-maintenance-how-to.331263/

 

I can't believe this thread has gone with long with no post. People must be as busy as I am. But must check at least once a day.

 

Well, I saw my clutch today. It was almost dead anyways. maybe 1/16" of clutch material left on it. Surprising it wasn't slipping already on me. But one of the inner pieces of it was sheared. so it wasn't doing shit anymore.

Figured I'd let someone else work on the truck for once, having them swap out the rear diff and do a full brake flush/bleed while they're at it. Also talked about finally getting my headers installed and a couple other things.

Truck should be back by tomorrow or friday. Fuck i miss driving it already lol. A month on a motorcycle sucks when its raining off and on lol

 

Also, flywheel looks fine. A couple little rough spots they said they can buff out and itll be fine, I didn't see any big glass spots on it or anything crazy, so thats good news. Having them replace the thrust bearing as well while they're in there. Might as well with it open.

 

The PDM stainless steel repair/upgrade sleeve for the quill would be a good thing to do while it's out if you havent already

 

Got my csf radiator Monday. Hopefully Friday Ebay Claus delivers my shroud and tank.

 

Were all over in the HP Tuner thread.

 

Might even install it. On another note I read with a 2.5 pulley the trd tune works better than ovtune. I can confirm this. Not wot stompin' but a couple repeat areas I jammed the gas and was glad I didnt go all out. Truck accelerated faster than I had runway. Just haven't made time for a custom tune.

 

I'd consider that as an option but if I cant work an ovtuner I have no buisness making my own tunes