Truck got rear-ended and totaled out.

I don't see any frame stuff on that estimate. I probably would have at least put 2hrs labor to setup&measure (labor to put vehicle on frame machine and check to see if all the frame measurements are still in spec)

I don't know how that insurance company in your area does things, but also Keep in mind that this estimate may not be a very good resource in determining what it's going to take to fix it. If an adjuster gets a significant (significant being debatable of course) amount over the total loss threshold, there is no reason to keep adding stuff to the estimate. Likely more damages not on estimate is what I'm getting at.

 

Do everyone a favor and take a look at the pictures of the truck. That estimate is way OVER the real damages.

 

Realize that the photos we are going off of do not reflect actual damages. There is likely a lot we are not seeing.

 

No, those photos ARE the entire damage. Its the back of the truck, there's nothing else there TO damage.

 

You've seen this truck in person then? Maybe I missed that.

All I was saying was that I'd have added setup&measure to the estimate and there could be other damages.

 

Get the money to fix it and you do it. You can find a complete bed at the salvage yard or craigslist and buy a new camper. Pay to have frame check first.

 

If there was anything to setup and measure, then that should have been added, but it is very obvious that there is NOTHING to setup or measure.

 

I disagree. I'd setup&measure that frame. It could have a very slight diamond or 1 rail could be slightly higher/lower than the other. Very common in rear-end hits. Not something always easily seen, especially through pics.... but you're the expert I guess.

 

imho not a bad idea. You could get the frame checked and Pulled(if needed). Get a complete bed, tailgate assembly and bumper assembly for a lot less than estimated. Parts you'd find might not be usable on an insurance estimate(due to quality of used parts), but likely serviceable. Parts on insurance estimates have to meet certain criteria to be considering restoring the vehicle to pre-loss condition.

 

Unfortunately the truck is still at the body shop otherwise I would grab some pictures. I can tell you that neither of my brake lights broke and either bed side panels were bent or scratched as well as the bumper itself. The bumper was untouched by the rear end so that is one of the reasons I feel like maybe frame damage was caused maybe prior to having owned the truck... I am not sure but I can't imagine that the hit to the tailgate could bend the frame but I am not an expert by any means. And as far as the buy back price they missed a few things on their quote and they increased it to $17,500.

 

Buy-back? Or did you mean payout? That's a hell of a step to go from $5000 to $17500 for buy back, but a reasonable change for payout. If they made that change to the buy back, then they've figured out that the damage isn't all that bad after all, and now they figure there's more money to be had by keeping the truck away from you than letting you keep it.

 

Whoops haha that was a typo, the buy back is $5000 and the payout is $17500.

 

Well I gotta say, it looks like they're really doing a good job trying to make you happy. Basically, you end up with what you started with, plus a bonus of over $10,000 in your pocket.

 

A truck with a rebuilt title in this area isn't going to net you anymore than $17500 in resale. I'd take the money and walk if it were me. Plus you don't have the headache of the mistakes that are made when a truck is put back together and the frustration of trying to sell a rebuilt title vehicle when the time comes.

 

Who said anything about resale? And who said anything about rebuilt title?
And even if he wanted to sell it, all he has to get to make it worthwhile is what he puts into the buyback + repairs, in other words, about $6000. If they're valuing the vehicle pre-crash at $17500, then it'll be really easy to sell it for at least $6000.

 

Unless something changed from when it happened to my parents a few years back, I'm fairly sure in WA State it'll be listed as a rebuilt title.

 

The main point is that it doesn't matter.
(1) OP wants to DRIVE it, not sell it, and as such, he can spend $6000 on this truck, or spend $17500 on a different truck that is deemed equivalent, but with a history that he doesn't know.
(2) If OP did want to sell it, his objective isn't to have the vehicle worth maximum value, his objective is only to have the vehicle worth *more than what he puts into it*, which isn't the payout price, its just BUYBACK + REPAIR, which will add up to around $6000.

Keeping this truck puts OP ahead financially by **more than $10,000**.

 

Here is what was given me regarding my buy back from the insurance company.

Next Steps

I have included a copy of the CCC Vehicle Valuation report with this letter.

If you decide to retain your vehicle, we will notify the DMV that you are retaining your total loss vehicle. As part of this process, I have outlined your next steps and responsibilities below.


Title will not be branded

If the vehicle is between six (6) and twenty (20) years old and under the threshold amount ($7,880)

Over twenty (20) years old

• Safeco Responsibilities
  • Notify the DMV that you are retaining your total loss vehicle
• Vehicle owner responsibilities & Next Steps (in order of when to complete):

1. Send your title to the DMV within 10 days of this letter
   1. Write “Destroyed” on the front of the title and the date it was totaled
2. Apply for applicable title
   1. This is determined by DMV

• Apply for applicable title:
  • Safeco will notify the DMV you are retaining your vehicle with the TD420 state form
  • Take your vehicle registration, notice of cancellation from DMV, this letter and fees to DMV for new title
  • The Washington Department of Licensing will determine how the title will be branded.
    • “WA Rebuilt”Vehicle is 5 years old or newer or;
      • Meets the “market threshold criteria”:
        • Vehicle is between 6- 20 years old,

• • • • • Is a passenger vehicle, light-duty truck, or sport utility vehicle (SUV), and
        • It had a retail value of $7,880 or more before being destroyed, damaged, wrecked, or declared a total loss.
    • Title will not be branded
      • If the vehicle is between six (6) and twenty (20) years old and under the threshold amount ($7,880)
      • Over twenty (20) years old

• Important information:
  • It is the owner’s responsibility to take the cancellation from the state along with the original title to the DMV to take care of the salvage title within 10 days of the notice being sent to the DMV
  • The vehicle cannot be legally driven or parked on public highways or roads until a new title has been issued

 

So my thought on keeping the truck is kind of just that, if I get a year or two out of it then I am a year or two without payment not that I wouldn't be if I bought another one for 17,500 but I could eventually use or keep the 10,000 to buy another vehicle. I also just thought if I do buy another truck equivalent too my truck and only got a few years out of that even though its a yoter, I don't know if it will last and I would be out 17,500 instead of the 5,000. And worst comes to worst if it does die I can part it out to recoup some of the money lost in the repair and buy back.

 

So just an update I did buy the truck back and due to some title issues some mine and some to the insurance campany its taken this long to be able to legally drive it. But now that I can I am going to start the reassembly process but I think I am going to get the frame checked and perhaps fixed. I guess what I really want to know is if I do get the frame straightend would I be able to reinforce it like in this thread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/boxing-plating-your-frame-w-lots-of-pics-2nd-gens.357625/

I am also wondering if the fact of cutting the cross member for the spare tire could let it bend out of shape again?