Engine Swap Discussion Thread

To document the engine swap project, I want to start a new discussion thread.

I'm am following the threads from @unixadm. Maybe he will stop by and shed some light for another Unixer as I work through this project. I will be collecting thread links and updating this one with links to reference material.

Before

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-4x4-3-4-trd-w-bad-motor.357090/#post-9642045


After

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2000-tacoma-3-4l-motor-swap-completed.357752/page-2

I spent today getting the "crash cart" organized before I start the project. There are a couple of other toolboxes that are dedicated to various types of pliers and drivers, and a Harbor Freight engine hoist in the background. I have a few more hours of organization type work before I jump in on this one.



Noting torque converter installation.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=57&v=g3wcwAdkdK4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFFIPyv2C_4

 

Adding an engine swap thread.

 

So your replacing a 3.4 with a 3.4 due to high mileage or other issue?

 

Other issue.

Mileage is 226,000. It looks like the previous owner let the engine run extremely hot and did damage. It makes a tapping noise that is identical to the engine in this thread.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-4x4-3-4-trd-w-bad-motor.357090/#post-9642045

 

Yeah, that doesn't sound good, makes a lot of financial sense to just swap engines, every time you try to fix major issues like this on them it ends up costing more in parts it seems like.

I really want an LS1 or something crazy when my 2.7 finally blows.

 

The engine is from a 98 model 4Runner in Orlando FL with 70,000 miles. It had a clean Car Fax with one owner until it was totaled. I see from CarFax where the 4Runner owner had the car serviced at Central Florida Toyota Scion in Orlando. LKQ is good about providing the VIN and pictures of the donor vehicle.

 

Wow, that is a good find, you simply dont see 70K 4runners anymore. Did Toyota use any serials on the engine block that can match it to that vehicles vin? Sure its a reputable junkyard but just curious if you wanted to verify, I may need to do this before long.

 

There is a VIN ID plate on a 3.4 that has been riveted to the block behind the PS pump mounting location. It doesn't look like something that can be easily removed.

 

Pulled the oil pan to get a look. I will be replacing the oil pump tube gasket before I seal it up with new RTV.

Right now I don't see a reason to pull the windage tray. The bottom of the oil pan was in similar condition.

 

In getting ready for the engine swap, I'm seeing a couple of items in the swap thread that bringing questions.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2000-tacoma-3-4l-motor-swap-completed.357752/page-2

1) Will it be easier or better to remove the exhaust manifold crossover pipe for gaining access to the top to bolts from the bell housing to the block? I see the pipe removed in one picture and present in another. I don't think I would have a problem removing before it and replacing it afterward.

2) I noticed the front tires had been let down in one picture. Does it look like that was done to give the engine hoist more room?

3) In some swap picture, I saw the A/C compressor and PS pump had been disconnected from the block mounting brackets but left connected and remained inside the engine compartment. In another thread, it looks like the PS pump stayed with the engine. Any recommendations for removing or not removing the A/C compressor or PS pump?

 

They remove the AC and steering pump from the block to prevent having to recharge the AC and having to rebleed the power steering fluid I believe

 

I'm fine with that.

 

Yeah, so either or will work and removing the crosspipe will help alot, but I don't know if it's necessary

 

After spending most of yesterday removing parts to prep for the engine pull, I've found that removing the crossover pipe is worse than just going in to get the top two bell housing bolts from the top. However, I did see a post in the following 4Runner thread about removing the shifter and going after the bell housing bolts from inside the cab. I don't know if this was automatic or manual. Seems like a good idea if it works.

I have this idea that I can remove the motor mounts, then suspend and lower the engine and transmission just enough get better access to the top two bell housing bolts.

I like the idea in this thread about making some removable alignment pins out of M12x1.25 bolts. I've used that trick on some other engine work.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/3-4-v-6-engine-removal-install-tips-199747/

Yesterday's work on taking down the engine to pull it. Pulling this off gives some clearance during the pull. For the new engine, I don't want to scratch up the valve covers and some of my intake work while hoisting it back in. So I'll finish putting it back in.



The upper wiring harness has been mangled up. Good, I will rewrap it the way I like to set up my wiring harnesses.

I've found a bunch of bad work that occurred with the previous owner. Several cases of them using SAE nuts on metric bolts and leaving some bolts with the alternator or PS pump finger tight. Messy work. They changed the timing belt and water pump roughly 3,000 miles ago. But that was about it.

Also, one of the injector plugs was broken. I've got a spare to fix that.



After removing the crossover pipe to header bolts (except one) I think I'm abandoning the crossover pipe ides. Too many horror stories from the 4Runner crowd about having to cut the old pipe out in pieces.

The new engine has a crossover pipe that looks to be in great condition. I've been reading about the flex part of that crossover pipe breaking down over time and people having to replace it. Should I be concerned about replacing the crossover pipe?



I found something that I really do not like about the knock wiring harness routing that I will post in a thread specific to that topic. I suspect that routing issue and crushing the wires may have been behind KS code. I need to find a better way for this unless it was incorrectly installed in the old engine. More to come on that.

QUESTION: Should I remove the automatic transmission pan to also remove the transmission dip stick? I was looking at that last night and trying to figure out how to get it out of the way.

 

Ok folks. I did it. This afternoon I pulled the 3.4L crossover pipe with the engine in the truck. I knew that had to be a way to get that blasted pipe off and out of the way for me to access the bell housing bolts. Using my Harbor Freight Engine Support bar helped make it possible. I like to use the support bar with engines during clutch jobs. It lets you maneuver the engine up and down without having to take out the engine hoist and giving up crawling room under the vehicle while accessing the transmission area.

Here's the old crossover pipe.



I used the engine support bar to raise the engine just enough to remove the engine mounts. Once the mounts were removed, I lowered the engine so I could remove the crossover pipe.



I've got all the room in the world to remove the bell housing bolts. What's up with the harness plug that sits on top of the transmission? I bet that is a challenge to access on top of the transmission.



The engine is PARTIALLY resting on a 2x4 wood block until I finish disconnecting everything and bring out the big engine hoist for the swap. Its weight is balanced between the support bar with a small amount on the wooden block. Though it is rated to support 1,000 lbs, those are Harbor Freight pounds. So I didn't want to leave the engine 100% supported by the bar during the night.



More to come. I aim to have the engine out tomorrow.

 

Harbor freight pounds, lmfao, CLASSIC! Glad ya didn’t cut the crossover pipe, lol, I did for headers, my patience is thin. Might wanna get some ceramic coated JBA headers on the new engine before the swap because I have a feeling you’ll supercharge it, if you don’t it’s gonna take at least 12 good hours in the truck. They are only 600 bucks, if you can fit it in the budget, and they do help the torque even n/a with more midrange pull. Super clean build!, Great work. May wanna check the ks harness, ohm it out and see if it’s got continuity, that way you know whether it was a knock because that tap sounds like it’s related. If it was a 22re that would be normal, they called it the 22r tick back in the day. Smart for starting over!

 

Thanks for the tip about the JBA headers. Unfortunately, I've got a deadline to for this to be all finished by 6/15. Checking into it looks like JBA would be arriving in early July. I think they are a build to order type product and ship directly from JBA. I tend to order enhancement parts like headers and keep them in stock for when the timing is right. I'm planning to replace the entire exhaust system in the fall. I like to do enhancement work in cool late September and October.

I've been debating whether to remove the header nuts on the new engine, one at a time so I don't disturb the exhaust gasket and put some copper anti-seize on them so they will be easy to remove at some point in the future. They look good right now though. Would you do that?

That's a good idea on checking the KS harness. It had been throwing KS codes. Though intermittent.

I have new OEM knock sensors going in with an enhanced KS harness. The new harness has been wrapped in DEI Cool Tape, then wrapped in high temp automotive flex conduit and wrapped again with F4 Silicone Tape. I may need to make an adjustment to it for the tight space under the intake manifold.

Harness wrapped in DEI cool tape and the conduit material.



Conduit wrapped in F4 silicone tape.



A really weird thing that happened with the old engine when I shut it down for the last time, the cams and crankshaft landed on top dead center. I still can't believe it. I think I should have bought a LOTTO ticket.

What are the odds of shutting off an engine for the final time and everything lands on TDC? Look at this picture.



I'm off to the garage to put together another engine stand for the old engine. Thanks for the info.

 

GET THAT LOTTO TICKET! Great job and I am impressed with your skills.

 

Lol, the mega millions is about half a billion dollars right now, run, don’t wait, do it b4 luck runs dry. Ive never been that lucky I’m surprised to say the least. As for the factory exhuast manifold studs they come new with dry red locktight. If you are gonna get prepared for headers in the future take them out now and get some ARP stainless bolts because the header hardware is shit. I can vouch that they come with short bolts and if you retighten after a few heat cycles you can pull threads. I got lucky and was able to run a longer bolt in one head. With factory studs the headers are a little harder to finagle around to put on but it’s doable. It’s ultimately up to you whether you go studs or bolts but studs bottom out and thats good because they are easily tightened, bolts make it harder to put the gaskets on and thread by hand as I always do. JBA is what I have, but Gadget at URD ran Doug Thorly and they might be better because the crossover pipe on em is ceramic coated too unlike jba, jba doesn’t do that on the crossover thats my only complaint. I was able to safely remove my factory studs with the stud removal tool at 200k miles so no need for anti seize, you may want to use some if you switch to bolts. If you do run headers don’t use the studs for the o2 sensor as they rust fast even in the West Coast, get some good stainless bolts for the o2 and use anti seize liberally, I wish someone told me that. Good job taping the ks harness that’s a nice upgrade you’ll appreciate.

 

Good looking hombre. Moving right along