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New coilovers needed

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Vabunch, May 27, 2019.

  1. May 27, 2019 at 12:31 AM
    #1
    Vabunch

    Vabunch [OP] Well-Known Member

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    What do you think of these. Right now im running stock coils with a 3in spacer and it rides like shit and they need to be replaced. I don't have the money to spend 1200+ on new coilovers. Ideas?

    Screenshot_20190527-031200_Chrome.jpg
     
  2. May 27, 2019 at 12:34 AM
    #2
    Vabunch

    Vabunch [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The truck is a 1996 Tacoma single cab with 3in body 3in suspension and 35x12.50x15s with a -44 offset
     
  3. May 27, 2019 at 11:44 AM
    #3
    Kwikvette

    Kwikvette Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Those coilovers you're looking at cannot be rebuilt.

    Why not 5100's up front?

    Tried and true; lots of people like them for good reason.

    Get rid of that spacer btw.
     
  4. May 27, 2019 at 2:09 PM
    #4
    Vabunch

    Vabunch [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I don't want a heavy spring rate
     
  5. May 28, 2019 at 12:33 PM
    #5
    FirstTimeFirstGen

    FirstTimeFirstGen Less active than most

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    Not enough to have a build thread.
    I'd still say if you're going to spend the money on coilovers, get a rebuildable one. It's more money initially but they're rebuildable for cheap instead of blowing another $800 when those fail.

    And I dont know what mods you have, but you dont have to run a heavy spring with 5100s

    Also, it looks like you have a third gen Tacoma. You're posting in the first gen forum.
     
  6. May 28, 2019 at 12:42 PM
    #6
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    When you set those coilovers at 3" lift, you're doing the exact same thing as you do with the 5100s - increasing the spring pre-load.

    Get OME coils if you want to lift it without jacking around with the pre-load...
     
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  7. May 28, 2019 at 1:08 PM
    #7
    Kevins60

    Kevins60 axle wrap tells me my rear brakes are working

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    Not to hijack the OP’s thread but I am considering the 5100’s to level my completely stock 04 prerunner and maybe help with the iron-wheeled wagon ride quality. How do I know if my stock springs are worth reusing?
     
  8. May 28, 2019 at 1:19 PM
    #8
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    It's a relatively safe assumption that your springs are worn out, just by the age of your truck (same as mine). Shocks too, if they're originals.

    When I put my 5100s on, I kept the springs, however I knew it was a bandaid fix. I set them in the middle setting, and lifted the read with a set of shackles. So the increase in pre-load at least partially compensated for the sagging springs. But because the 5100s have better dampening ability than the stock ones (even the stock TRD bilsteins), I feel like my ride improved, even though technically the springs got stiffer.

    So, it's up to you, if you want to try and save a few bucks, try the shocks first. If you like the ride then you're done, but if you still feel like the ride isn't that great, maybe try some new springs, like OME 881 or 882's depending on how much lift you want.

    The vast majority of people seem to like the ride from 5100s, but some don't. I hear Monroes are good for that "softer" ride, but you can't (or at least IMO, shouldn't) use them in a lifted application since you'd need to use spacers, and I hate spacers, lol).
     
  9. May 28, 2019 at 1:25 PM
    #9
    FirstTimeFirstGen

    FirstTimeFirstGen Less active than most

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    Not enough to have a build thread.
    Now I'm going to hijack the thread lol

    What's everyones problem with preload spacers? It's quite similar to adjusting the preload on a coilover unless I'm missing something

    Obviously it's not going to perform like a coilover, but for a little lift, it's not that bad and doesn't mess up the factory geometry any worse than most other lifts
     
  10. May 28, 2019 at 1:32 PM
    #10
    jbrandt

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    There are a couple of different types of spacers. The preload spacers and top hat spacers. For the ones that bolt to the top of the coilover (top hat), they just move the whole shock down, not really effecting pre-load. However, those also run the risk of bottoming out the shock before hitting the bumpstop if you get too big of a spacer. Not something I'd ever personally recommend.

    For the pre-load spacers, if you're getting 5100s they are completely superfluous. Use the indents on the shock body to do the same thing rather than purchasing spacers separately. And with how cheap 5100s are, if you are in the market for new low budget shocks, just get 5100s rather than some other brand + buying the spacers. If you need new coils, (you probably do, lol) just get some OME coils that are the proper length and spring capacity for whatever lift you want rather than messing with spring pre-load.
     
  11. May 28, 2019 at 6:27 PM
    #11
    Vabunch

    Vabunch [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The second post on the thread said what my 1st gen is. I have a first and a third gen. Id like to own all three someday
     
  12. May 29, 2019 at 6:11 AM
    #12
    FirstTimeFirstGen

    FirstTimeFirstGen Less active than most

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    Not enough to have a build thread.
    My bad. Worst part is I read that too. Just got distracted while typing.
     
  13. May 29, 2019 at 8:40 AM
    #13
    jbrandt

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  14. May 29, 2019 at 8:42 AM
    #14
    FirstTimeFirstGen

    FirstTimeFirstGen Less active than most

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    Not enough to have a build thread.
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  15. May 29, 2019 at 8:43 AM
    #15
    jbrandt

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  16. May 29, 2019 at 8:50 AM
    #16
    desertjunkie760

    desertjunkie760 @DesertJunkie760 (IG)

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    Not following what you mean by “preload spacer?” Adjusting preload and using a spacer on top of the top are very different.

    When you use the spacer on top of the shock, you’re basically extending the overall length of the shock and using it in a way it wasn’t designed for. I’ve seen multiple cases where the shock tears itself apart under mild off road application.

    Adjusting preload doesn’t change the shock design, it just adjust the spring. The only possible issue here is if you increase preload too much and cause “coil bind.”
     
  17. May 29, 2019 at 10:15 AM
    #17
    FirstTimeFirstGen

    FirstTimeFirstGen Less active than most

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    Not enough to have a build thread.
    A preload spacer goes is basically a chunk of aluminum that goes in the strut where the spring goes to preload it. I've heard a lot of people hate on them but really dont understand why. Seems to be the same thing as preloading 5100s or coilovers. It's cheaper than 5100s since you can put them in the factory strut.
     
  18. May 29, 2019 at 10:20 AM
    #18
    eon_blue

    eon_blue If I would, could you

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    1st gen 2.5 King coilovers (non resi) are only a couple hundred more than those All Pros, and they're rebuildable. I got mine for $950 through Headstrong a couple years ago.
     
  19. May 29, 2019 at 10:38 AM
    #19
    Vabunch

    Vabunch [OP] Well-Known Member

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    What about this setup. I want to run 500 lbs coils because its only a single cab 2.7 and ive removed weight like the ac compressor and everything that goes to the ac. I have an aluminum bullbar but tht replaced the weight of all the ac components so its basically stock weight

    Screenshot_20190528-233607_Chrome.jpg
     
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  20. May 29, 2019 at 10:41 AM
    #20
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    Not struts... Coilovers...

    But anywho... People hate on the 5100s for the same reason, you are making the ride stiffer by preloading the spring.

    But if you want to lift your truck the cheapest/easiest way possible, you should get the spacers that go on TOP of the coilover, not the pre-load spacer because it is a simple bolt-on affair. Pre load spacers require you to disassemble your coilover (need a spring compressor) to install it.

    But, seeing as how people's 1st gen shocks (*espeically* if they're originals, lol) are likely worn out anyway, by adding a preload spacer you are not only creating more work for yourself (disassembling the shock), you can make the ride even worse because you are increasing spring preload on a shock that can't properly dampen the movement because it's worn out or not designed to handle the higher preload. At least with the top spacer, all you're doing is moving the shock down - it will still function essentially the same.

    So, if you're in the market for new shocks and are considering lifting it, AND are on a budget, you might as well go for the 5100s since it is a nicer shock that stock and performs decently well off road, and you can lift it at the same time.

    So, as I said in my earlier post, when you add up the cost of new, conventional auto part store brand shocks (generally not known for their off road performance), plus the spacers, it's really not any different than the 5100s (cost wise), but the performance from the 5100s is a marked improvement over stock.
     

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