Not just another clutch adjustment thread. Please help!!

Done a search about clutch adjustment and the accumulator delete (which Im in the process of doing), but haven't seen anyone post/discussion with a similar issue as mine. I adjusted the clutch free play and could not get enough adjustment to stop the throw out bearing to STOP touching the pressure plate. What is my next step to fix this?

 

Well, I have a big surprise for you. The clutch release bearing is supposed to ride on the fingers of the pressure plate all the time. There is a spring in the slave cylinder that has the purpose of pushing the fork so that the bearing does ride full time on the PP. I have guessed that that spring exerts around 8-12 pounds, more or less, of force. Go back to where you were before you tried to adjust. If you need more help the best way to contact me for awhile is by sending a PM.

 

Thanks for the reply Taco '09. In the thread below, post number 1, about halfway down.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...on-your-6-speed-transmissiom-write-up.338840/

HERE IS HOW TO MAKE THE FREE PLAY ADJUSTMENT http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old...6toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/02900510.pdf
If you want to double check that you did the adjustment correctly , remove the clutch lever boot and shine a flashlight into the bellhousing and make sure the release bearing is " NOT " turning while the truck is running in neutral .If the bearing continues to turn , increase the free play under the pedal at the adjustable push rod.

I will p.m. shortly.

 

OP, I don't want this to seem harsh by any means against another member but GC simply does not know what he is talking about and I have called him out a number of times. Sometimes it is hard to break old notions especially if your experience is from a long time ago.

In the very old days the T/O bearing was designed to have an air gap between it and the PP. I had a very old Jeep that was adjusted that way. But that was a 60 year old Jeep. I was seeing the constant contact design by some vehicles of early 1980's vintage, notably Volvo, and that design was almost 40 years old now.

But that was then and this is now. For many years now most new designs have the T/O bearing riding on the PP all the time. Why? The shock and thermal loading that occurs to bearings going from a stop to many thousands of RPMs in an instant during a shift is very destructive to bearings and causes shorter life spans. But a bearing that rides on the PP at all times simply runs cooler.

I believe you are confusing what the manual says about free play adjustment and translating that to mean free play at the T/O bearing. It is not the same. The manual is poorly written in some areas and this is one. Free play adjustment in that section linked simply means two things: the play on the back of the clutch pedal where it contacts the plunger of the clutch master cylinder; and free play at the top of the pedal assembly where it is adjusted to accommodate the plunger of the cruise control switch so that the cruise control circuit is interrupted.

 

This explanation sounds correct. I had an F250 long ago that had the pedal free play set wrong and the throw out bearing rode on the pressure plate constantly. It failed with several weeks and I had to change it. That was a mechanical linkage. Hydraulic is very different.

 

Is it possible to apply a small amount of grease between the throw out bearing and the clutch fingers to quiet the squeak some?

 

Anyone try this?

 

Let me preface this by saying I have spend probably 40 hours researching this within the last month, pouring over threads here, many other forums, TSBs FSMs, conversing with my mechanical engineering buddies and my 40+ years ASE master tech with Toyota friend as I have spent the last two weeks doing my clutch job on my 2010.

First of:

DO NOT GREASE THE LIP OF THE TOB/RB YOU WILL CONTAMINATE THE CLUTCH DISC.


As other members have said 1st gen Tacoma's with the R150/F and early 2nd gens (before the slave cylinder spring length/rate TSB) the throw out / release bearing DID NOT contact the pressure plate fingers.

Toyota updated the design with the RA60/F changed the support fork post and replaced the slave cylinder spring to make the TOB/RB contact the pressure plate 100% of the time.

Now if you have the 4 Cyl/5speed the TOB should NOT contact the pressure plate as it still uses the older style fork/bearing set-up.

DO NOT force grease down into the recess of the TOB! The throw out bearing is double sealed and lifetime lubricated putting grease in there will only become a potential issue of contamination for the clutch disc.

DO! (Lightly) grease the INSIDE of the TOB where it slides on the quill and grease the quill itself.

NOTE! If you get the URD stainless sleave to fix the aluminum quill scoring then you should FILL the recesses inside the slide barrel as THAT is the "grease reservoir" the instructions reference.

Properly greased new URD modify TOB:


Where NOT to grease is down in those holes:


Quill scoring/scarring:


URD sleave installed:



TOB/RB on fork in bell housing:

 

This is exactly the opposite of what URD states in their instructions. I clearly remember them stating "these holes are reservoirs for grease".
Not saying you or they are wrong, but now i am wondering who is right

 

Heres what URD's instructions say

 

Haha didnt read far enough

I wonder why its different with their kit

 

Yeap I have that sheet too and it confused me which lead to so many hours talking to the experienced and the research.

Here is what I found:

Blue arrows those are the grease reserve grooves that need filled.

Green ring bearing "inside"

Red ring:

Retainer snap ring for the TOB's actually bearing inner seal.

 

The URD bearing is the same exact bearing as the OEM stock bearing says "NACHI JAPAN" and identical part numbers.

URD simply send the bearings out to ha e the inner sliding on sleave to be machined large enough to fit over their stainless quill.

The also put the grease reserve grooves in so more grease can be in there as one of the sources of "clutch squeak" is the light film of grease you can put on the stock bearing/quill dries up or gets dirty/contaminated and no longer lubricates.

 

Thanks for the info Key-Rei. There is a ton of info on this site and some can be confusing to say the least. The squeak is only present if the truck has sat for an extended period of time, but only last 15 - 30 seconds. Doesnt matter if the clutch is pressed or not, the noise changes tones but is still present. Any suggestions of what it may be or what to do to stop it?

 

Great info. Thanks for doing the research on this, sounds like you learned a lot in the process!

 

Sure did! Wether I wanted to or not! This whole project has been a fuster straight from GO!

Got her buttoned up at least enough to drive it for a day last night staying up to midnight with having to get up for work at 3am so I wouldn't have to ride the motorcycle into work and home in the rain, went to fire her off and dead battery 3.4v



Words with the truck were exchanged. She has been sitting for over a week and I do have a few small parasitic draws on it but with my battery I've never had an issue with it sitting not sure what changed.

She's on the charger now and I'm going to get wet today.

Thanks for your write up @BassAckwards
even if the bit regarding greasing the TOB threw me for a bit, made me second guess myself and to be honest I am still not 100% confident on it, I'm actually going to cut my old OEM TOB in half just to satisfy my understanding completely. I'll report my findings.

(Got another little ditty or two I did I'm going to report on too...)

But yeah man I owe you a beer for the write up and links for sure if you ever make it to FLA!

 

Does the squeak get worse or better with the clutch pushed in?

 

Sure thing buddy, glad you were able to find the write up. I tried to name it something where ppl doing clutch work could easily find it.

If i ever come down to FLA ill take you up on that offer!

 

Stays pretty much the same, doesnt get louder, just a different tone.

 

Can you provide a video with audio of what you're encountering? My suspicion is that your TOB is dying.