What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Wheel bearings are about the only thing I have not touched yet on my front end. How many miles are on yours and what triggered the need to replace them?

 

you just want ignition power? There is a lot of that in the cab.

The easiest to tap into is the ash tray light, Im not 100% sure your year has that. But its a worthless light anyways so its easy to cut off the light and put it where ever.

HOWEVER

its on the dimmer...so keep that in mind.

What are you powering?

The Emergency flasher switch is another one I think.

 

I think you want the white wire going to the starter relay. Hopefully someone else agrees. I'm far from literate when it comes to schematics

 

no the white wire is hot all the time. The BR wire is what he'd want. Whatever that goes too..

 

I want a wire that is hot only when the starter is on.

This is for my ML-ACR. It states:

To enable Start Isolation:

• Connect the brown wire (ISOLATION #1) from the harness to the terminal or wire running from the start key switch to the starter solenoid. Make this connection through a 2 Amp in-line fuse. This connection can be made at the start key switch or at the starter solenoid, but must be to the line that is positive only when cranking the engine. as shown below.

 

Pretty sure that is optional for the way we use the ML-ACR. IIRC, it is designed to protect circuitry from the voltage surge that can occur during starting.

FWIW, mine does not use the brown wire.

 

Well, that would surely make my life easier. Perhaps a call to Blue Sea is in order.

 

You're right, now I'm thinking the black wire coming off the ST1 pin. I think that BR wire will be hot when the ignition is on, not just when cranking.

 

It might be worthwhile to ask other ML-ACR users how they have dealt with this. There are a lot of them subscribed to this thread. That is where I got most of my questions answered.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ts-see-them-multiple-batteries-thread.295653/

 

Two things: Brown wire is optional - Blue Sea says it does exactly what you said Mike @Digiratus - isolates the loads prior to crank.

Regardless - I think what I actually want as I look at this is the B-W wire going into the starter relay. That will be +12 when all the various bits that are required for the relay to send juice to the starter are "a go." Then, the B-W wire gets a bit of juice, and closes the relay. Center of this diagram, pin 1 of the starter relay.

Where's that starter relay?

 

no the black wire is part of the 4wd system. The BR goes to an IGN switch so it should only be connected when cranking.

 

ST RELAY about half way down on the leftish middle.

W feeds Pin 5

 

Did you read my post that you quoted? W looks +12V all the time to me; comes straight off the battery. Pin 1 (B-W) is the one I want, isn't it?

 

how high and what gear(s) (just curious!)

 

The master can leak internally and then slowly start puking the fluid inside the cab without you really noticing, that's usually a good sign it's going out.

 

yes pin 1.

Sorry..read most of it. sounded like you just wanted to know where the starter relay was.

 

Good time to upgrade to a braided line on the clutch system if you haven't already. I know Marlin has them, might be able to get one from the various brake line suppliers too. The Marlin one is made by Crown I believe.

 

How much fun was the alignment cam bolts? Mine were seized...loads of fun.

 

THB it wasn't that bad. Took me about 4.5 hrs to rip the drivers side apart, rebuild and put back together taking my time. Passenger took me about 3 hrs. The only one that was actually seized up a little was the passenger lower rear bushing. I had to work the cam bolt back and forth a bit and tap it out with a straight punch. I'd say the biggest pain was the rear bolts don't come out unless you unbolt the steering rack and move it up and out of the way. I bought new bolts from Wheelersoffroad which went in a lot easier than the ''keyed'' stock cam bolts.

 

Found 2 injector plug pigtails where the lock had broken off. Luckily O'Reilly Auto carries Import Direct replacements. I was able to pull out the wires from the old plugs and put them into the new ones.