Run to the Hills! - Jason's Completely Stalled Colorado GTFO Build

Oh I’ve forgot a few spots I wish I welded. I’m going to have to open things up to get to them. It sucks I wasn’t trying to be picky. Just figured I mentioned it. But everything else looks great bud.

 

No worries, man. Always good to have another set of eyes!

 

Desperate times call for desperate measures.

 

I would kill for that weather. Currently over 100 and not looking forward to going in the garage

 

I’m stuck working in the driveway, and we’ve had a series of storms rolling through for almost a week straight. It made the welding take twice as long as it probably should have.

But I know those feels about the heat. I grew up in St. George and it was hot as shit in the summer.

 

Leaf packs are cleaned up, hit with dry moly lube on the friction surfaces, reassembled, and painted.

 

Installed the fuel tank and the evap canister, and got everything painted up.

Time to start putting shit back together.

 

You missed a spot!

 

Why does the upper shock tube poke out past the frame?? you're gonna hit that shit with your tires..

 

Calling the Brett’s!

I’m about to tackle the BPV project and I’m planning on using Old Brett’s write up from his build since I’m using the same kit:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/bretts-average-build-thread.305098/page-28#post-12388470

Do you guys have any other wisdom to offer or things to watch out for? Thanks as always in advance.

@Deathbysnusnu @Squeaky Penguin

 

Just make sure to get the metric and sae fittings sorted. The threads are very close.
Otherwise, its fairly straightforward.

 

Thanks, Brett.

Your write up is really good, so I’m not too worried.

 

I still have no complaints on putting it by the original valve, but I mostly did that because I thought it would be easier. The short section of lines supplied by front range are rusting though, I may look into replacing those at some point. Also, I used a union between the short section of hardline on the front brake and the hardline coming down from the master cylinder. I was going to do what old Brett did and just bend the line to meet up with the soft line, but never got around to it.

Old Brett's writeup is really solid though.

 

Lol easy fix at least!

 

It is, which makes this so much easier. I’m almost done with everything. Took a while to get the bypass line pulled, and now it’s time to actually mount the valve by the master cylinder. So far, so good!

Yeah, I’m not a dumbass, but apparently I like to do dumbass stuff sometimes...

 

I heard about this guy who pumped his newly retubed driveshaft full of grease before installing it. Then the idiot took it back to the DS shop because it wouldn’t collapse enough to fit in the truck. Obviously they made it too long.

Or so he thought... what a tool.

 

What a dipshit!

 

Got a little bit further after a long day yesterday.

I still need to bleed the brakes, but the new proportioning valve is in and the old bypass line has been pulled. Some strain relief for the valve is definitely in order, but I’m fairly happy with the results. Huge thanks to @Deathbysnusnu for his write up. It made life so much easier.




Since the frame is now boxed, I had to drill and tap a couple holes to mount up the stock rear brake line bracket. I’d like the bends to be a little cleaner, but it is what it is at this point. I can’t believe how much less cluttered it is back there with out the LSPV/BV shit in the way.




While I really wanted to get the new exhaust system in, I had to reuse the old one out of expediency. After immediately blowing through the shitty old metal on the muffler, I got the hang of things and got my super sweet custom exhaust tip welded on. Some new fasteners and a gasket from the dealer, and the whole thing was bolted back up, no problem.




This is a shitty pic, but we were still getting hammered with rain, so I had to take it with the tarp on the truck, but here is the finished product, basically. I made some super lame e-brake extendo brackets that probably fucked up the e-brake adjustment, but hey, at least the cable are hooked up to the bellcranks now. I also made a little spacer for the bracket that holds the e-locker harness. It wasn’t too tight at full droop, but it was enough to make me nervous, so I spaced it up. Much better.




At this point, I just need to bleed the brakes and set the new BPV, and then I’m ready to put the bed back on. I guess it’s probably a good idea to change the diff gear oil since it saw some heat from welding on the lower mounts, but I really don’t want to because I’m over all of it at this point.