Should I expect more from my AC

Out here in San Diego we dont have the climate that you have so I have never seen a 300+ high side... scarry to me but within the temp / pressure charts for what you have. With amount of humidity is there mositure forming on the lines as they leave the evap case in the engine compartment?
is there is condesate dripping out of the drain tube onto the ground?

at this point where everything is seems to check normal we are grasping for the unusual.

For cuiousity I would take the blower unit out and stick my hand up in the evap case and check for leaves, mouse fur, pieces of paper etc... anything that blocks the air flow. The evaporator is at most a 30 min job to take out with the proper sized wrenchs to counterhold the aluminum "nuts". The other thing that you could do is take the glove box out all of the way and take the air discharge line off the evap case and take a look. I dont know if all of the foam "seals" that go around all of the ducting would leak to a 20 degree off reading.

 

There is moisture on the low side line and the condensate drain leaves a pretty good puddle in the driveway. At his point I and considering breaking down the entire system, replacing the condensor and receiver, remove, drain and refill the compressor, flush all lines and hoses, replace all o-rings, reconnect everything, draw a vacuum, charge and test. Sound about right?

Edit: and replace the expansion valve

 

yeah... I didnt want to be the guy to suggest the shotgun approach but there is no way to replace just one component without having to do an evac and recharge after every piece replaced. As a bit of overkill, while the system is apart take the evap housing out and apart... it sure would be a pisser to have the aluminum evap core corrode through 2 weeks after.

I have a thread on my experience's titled "Why you shouldn't park under a tree" in the first gen section.

 

A system is working correctly when the low side is sweating and the "evaporator drain" not condenser is leaving a puddle. the condenser is in front of the radiator, the evaporator is in the firewall.

 

Sorry Kev, my bad

 

No harm no foul Tape and I appreciate everyone’s input. I’m trying to figure out the best way I can fix my problem to ensure long term trouble free operation and everyone is trying to help. If I knew WTF I was doing I wouldn’t be asking these questions.

 

Kevins60 - I just went through the "shotgun" approach, as someone referred to

My system would drain within a weeks time. Well, I went through a bunch of freon and then the clutch went and left me a mess. I replaced every component and in the process, destroyed 3 of the 5 lines (not including the evaporator lines poking through the firewall, they were fine). Regardless, I couldn’t be happier with the end result. I know the system has roughly 225cc of fresh PAG46 oil, new o-rings, cleared out lines and the proper amount of freon. It’s this website that got me through the process of replacing components and proper oiling (exact link below).

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1st-gen-a-c-system-replacement-how-to-seized-compressor.293204/

It’s a lot of work but is sure paid off for me. If I wouldn't have ruined $206 of AC lines , the cost would have been less than $400 (got my kit and evap at rockauto). The "shotgun" approach was feasible for me. The local dealer (where i bought my 3 AC lines) told me they just wrapped up a tacoma AC compressor replacement job....bill was $2200.

 

I have no problem with the shotgun approach, I think it’s the best chance for success considering all the unknowns at this point. Evap has to come out to replace the expansion valve anyhow. Judging by the amount of pin oak leaves and pine needles I cleaned out from under and inside the hood I have no doubt there is a burgeoning mulch pile waiting for me there.
I’m not put off by the amount of work required or dropping a few hundred bucks on my garage queen-provided it fixes my problem. I’m lucky in that this is not my daily driver, really more of a hobby for me and the AC is part of a long laundry list of things I want to do like new coilovers, leveling, ball joints, tie rod ends, upgrade the stock audio, add a backup camera and so on and I’m under no pressure and in no real hurry to do any of them. I could take it to a shop for any of these things but where is the fun in that? Besides I get to learn something along the way.

 

I'm with you, I get it. Same boat...I've adopted the shotgun approach for many projects. You learn and you know what you have

If I'm going in...im going all in on my projects. It's your money, your truck and your piece of mind. I couldn't believe how cheap the parts were, as long as you go aftermarket. The lines I went to Toyota for as I heard some miss fitment issues. I blow $600 on dumber things than that

 

my other phrase is "parts cannon"... they are not trade marked, feel free to use them!

 

This is a great thread that we have as here as a reference. It saved me some time for sure.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1st-gen-a-c-system-replacement-how-to-seized-compressor.293204/

Just looking back, I think it was 50 years ago this summer when I first worked on an AC system. Back in those days, it was common to deal with compressors didn't use a clutch. It was a continuous run compressor that used a valve to control the refrigerant flow. People would remove the (2) belts in the winter to keep from running the compressor all year.



One thing I learned early in life when working on a closed system, it's important to evacuate the system to remove any outside air and make sure the system has the proper lubricant in the proper amount. Yes, that is extra work. I've been following that principal on my 134a systems and get good results. Another item that I do is to replace the Schrader valves when I do a major service. There is nothing more disappointing than to see your good work spraying out all over your engine from a leaking Schrader valve once you remove the hoses from a new charge.

I've kept some NOW antique AC systems running by flushing them, evacuating, oiling, and thoroughly evacuating the systems before refilling. Refills go smoothly with an evacuated system. I recharged the Taco with 18oz of refrigerant before I started the engine. It kicked on and ran right off the bat. I just needed to top it off once it was running.

When I did my AC service, I flushed the system into a clean bucket and captured the bottom fluid in a glass so I could look for contaminants. I got really lucky with the Taco's refresh. I based my next steps on these results.

 

Shoot it with a "parts cannon".

I've learned that working on antique vehicles (and houses) is a lot like hunting wild boar and may apply to bear.

"If you shoot at and don't take it all the way down, it will get up and eat your ass."

 

I am convinced that 1) the phrase “parts cannon” is gaining acceptance and 2) it is the correct approach in my case since there are so many unknowns and one overlooked or ignored part can jack-up the rest of the system. This is not the project to try to cut corners.