Clunking again at start and stop

So this is my 2nd carrier bearing but it’s not OEM. It’s an Autozone one. I was under the truck today and noticed the grease leaking. There’s about 1/2 play also. Would this be a source of the start and stop cluck I have been getting the last few months? I thought I had it resolved with replacing the tranny mount. I’m spending $$$ on an original OEM next time.

 

Looks like you are a 4x4.

You would be a prime candidate for a ford ranger CB as they are going to be much less floppy and can be used on the 4x4.

 

See the current carrier bearing thread with the Spicer PN- same as OE.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dana-Spice...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

Cause that's what you want, a ford driveline part under there.

 

Its specd for a ford, but made by dana spicer... same people that make all the driveline parts of our trucks....

 

Get a true OEM carrier bearing. Spicer makes them for 1st gens and it's cheaper to get them directly from Spicer...not sure if that's also true for 2nd gens.

Aftermarket carrier bearings especially parts store ones are awful and generally do not last long.

 

OP check out this thread

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...uy-iedls-polyurethane-carrier-bearing.421410/

 

Don't discount your U joints too. I just had to replace all of mine. One was completely frozen.

 

Big time. Spicer greaseable u joints are 30ish bucks a piece for the rear driveshaft. Easy to replace and you already need to essentially remove one to get to the CB.

 

So I did order an OEM bearing from the dealer. Expensive at $243. I plan on putting it in next week. I've been a Nazi on lubing the zerks every oil change and even have regreased the slide yoke last year. I'll definately check the spider joints.

 

From the photo you posted initially it looks like that AutoZone carrier bearing you have definitely shit the bed, so replacing it with the OEM one should take care of that issue. Clunking in the driveline is a primary characteristic of a failed/failing carrier bearing.

Its also characteristic of bad u-joints, so if the clunking persists even after the new CB install then I'd look there