TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

You for sure need a fuel pump asap. The stock design is a let down for a standard na setup, and once boosting I would argue dangerous. The trd injectors are ok, but running a 2.5 pulley you are gonna be running them at max or more than max duty cycle. The FPR mod can help with this, or you could get bigger injectors. If it was me, I would plan on getting the FIC injectors when you have some spare $$.

 

Got it the Fuel pump is getting added to the list. I will go ahead and plan for the injectors too. Any one have recommendations there?

Also for the FP the E85 version works without e85 as well right? Figure its not much more in case I decide to do that down the line.

 

Just to give you an idea, I run the one of the smallest pulleys on here in conjunction with the FPR mod and I am running the TRD yellow injectors still. They are capable of a lot, but if you do not run them boost referenced you will without a doubt be maxed out well before a 2.5... I am running FPR permanently, and reversing the mod every state inspection year from here on forward as it is a quick and easy mod, but this allows me to run my mods incognito for the OE supercharger ARB/ CARB restrictions on the setup and appear OE all at the same time.

 

Yeah over fueling was my hunch, although afrs didn’t really change much other than the curve from cruising to WOT. I already swapped it back. With a quick change pulley I will tinker with 2.7 and 2.8 and see how much the snorkel limits intake.

Eventually I will get an hp tuner but after bricking 2 Ecu s trying to flash the TRD tune I am in no hurry to try and modify anything there. My truck has some electrical gremlin that doesn’t like it when you try and modify the ecu.

 

That's the first I have heard of that issue. How new or old is your battery? When flashing it is best to limit all electronics from function while doing so. Anything can disturb the process, from headlights on, to excessive amperage draw from an accessory plugged into the cigarette lighter to even the radio turned on. It is best to turn it all off, and I mean all of it. Even your intercooler pump running could potentially cause a disturbance during the flash process.

Yeah the fueling changes dramatically once PE is engaged, so in your case it was and is best for you to go back. I would really love to know what is going on with your anti tuning electrical gremlin and help you get to the bottom of it.

 

I have a lot of extra electrical crap going on. First time I didn’t realize how sensitive flashing the ecu was to other current draws so that’s on me. Second time I disconnected everything I could. Had the truck hooked up to a charger set to maintain the correct voltage and monitored it through tech stream for awhile before I tried the flash. I even whispered a lullaby to the truck before I initiated the reflash and still something went wrong. Only thing I can imagine is that the ecu (found at a pick n pull) was previously damaged somehow.

Luckily @loginfailed was selling his TRD flashed ECU and our years were compatible so I picked it up and swapped it in. Have been using it ever since.

 

makes sense. I did not even think about the Carb shit but like you said thats easy to adjust if needed.

 

I hope I do not run into that. I have a ton of crap and was planning on getting short tech stream sub and program it. I would hate to brick it and the truck be stock as I will be a few hours away at my brothers shop.

 

Most people don’t have issues. I think I am an odd case.

 

with my luck I would not put it past me. although going to ride the recent good fortunes and hope for the best. Hopefully my OVT unflash goes as planned before I add on the TRD tune.

 

Hey fellas.
Just to give me an idea, you all know what engine I have. What kw and torque are you guys all getting from your engines?
On the factory stats of my engine it shows 225kw and 453n. Just keen to know what others are getting after a few mods.

 

Here’s a thread with some good dyno data for different forced induction setups: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1gr-fe-f-i-mods-and-dynos.465243/

Looks like you’re at 306hp and 334ft-lbs

 

Sweet. Thanks. I’ll take a look.

 

I’m just going by this write up about the Ute.

 

Yeah, those are the stated engine power ratings with the supercharger. Your dyno results would be measured at the wheels, so there could be a sizable (10-15%) loss realized. With the upgrades you’ve made with pulleys, fuel, and tuning you’ve probably surpassed the stock numbers, but at the wheels.

 

Ah ok. Yeah I was pretty sure those numbers where from the flywheel not at the wheels.
Does it make a difference having slightly bigger wheel the standard for the dyno?

 

Yes. Gears, tires, air temp, elevation, dyno model/manufacturer, heat soak all play active roles in the results.

 

Best I change my tires then. I wanted to anyway cause my speedo is out by 10km.
Thanks for the advise.

 

+1 to all of this, though, the intercooler pump wiring prescribed by Magnuson doesn't make it easy to turn it off. Unfortunately, rewiring that is still on my To Do list...

I do the same thing when flashing mine, and am a little concerned it didn't prevent trouble for you.

 

I think you had a case of bad luck at your pick n pull and it just was unwritable as a whole the second time around. I can't tell you how many bad PCMs I've gotten from the junkyards which has wound up causing me to chase my tail while diagnosing, it drives me nuts. I'd be willing to bet if you tried it again with loginfaileds known good PCM you would be able to flash it no problem.