2005 Tacoma Rear Brake change

2005 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab 4.0L V6 4x4 MT.
About 145,000 miles.

I already have the rear brake pads. Do I need anything else to replace the rear brakes, like rotors or spring kits, etc.

Thanks for helping.

 

I’d opt for a spring kit.
There are these little horse shoe looking clips that hold the parking brake lever in place.
They can bent up and I don’t like using it over.

 

If you've ever done brakes before I'm sure you have a brake spring tool. If not, get one from the auto parts store ($8 - $10).

 

Might need drums if they are worn down. The rears look more complicated than they are.. Do one at a time so you have a reference if something confuses you.

 

Based on the bolded and underlined you may want to get someone that had done drum brakes before and have them on hot standby.

 

Just gonna drop this here..

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...e-reference-not-a-white-glove-service.547341/

 

Troof

 

Thanks for all the quick replies.

Yes I do have a brake spring tool.

Sorry if I am getting some of the terminology wrong. I was planning on asking my neighbor to look over my shoulder, but he can sometimes be unreliable to hang out with. Trying to be prepared with all the parts I need.

Is this the Spring Kit I need?
Does the Rear Brake Drum come with left and right ones? Are the left and right identical?


SPRING KIT, REAR BRAKE
Part Number: 0494204010
$86.31
https://parts.toyota.com/p/Toyota_2...ING-KIT---REAR-BRAKE/69084881/0494204010.html


Brake Drum (Rear)
Stock Code 4243104061
Price: $127.19
https://parts.toyota.com/p/Toyota_2...4-MT/Brake-Drum-Rear/63029039/4243104061.html

 

The spring kit you have shown doesn’t include the horse shoe clips.

Go to the site below and type in your VIN, or select your truck and options, then find your parts and part #
Once you find the parts and numbers, order from where ever you desire.

https://parts.olathetoyota.com/auto-parts/toyota/tacoma

 

take some pics with ya phone of the way everything goes before you start. lining on one shoe is longer than the other in most cases

 

Put the back end up on jack stands, remove both drums and only do one side at a time. That way you can look at the other side for reference.
Can't beat Toyota drums but you can get other good brands for much less. I did my 03 drum replacement for around $90 a pair.

 

Thanks for the link. I typed in my vin but I did not find any horse shoe clips. But I think I should be fine to reuse mine.

 

You probably will be ok.
Just be careful not to loose one when you get them off.
You’ll be fine.

 

This. I couldn’t find mine. Used a screw driver till I was blue in the face. Tried to auto adjust by backing up and breaking repeatedly. Drove to the auto parts store and bought a new break tool. Minutes later I was good to go. They work much better than a screw driver.

 

The drums can be a huge PITA to get off- over time, they rust in place and become part of the hub . I had to use an air hammer, heat, and a huge puller to get mine off. So, before you get too excited, make sure you can get the drums off. There are tapped holes in the drum at the hub area for jacking screws but I had no luck with them.

Like many said, take pictures. There is a primary and secondary shoe, they are typically different (secondary has more material) and the primary goes to the front on both sides.

The spring tool is a must- unless you want to risk injury, but also have the adjusting spoon. The clip pliers aren't a necessity but make it easier.

 

When possible, I always liked to 'assemble' the shoes and adjusters on the bench as much as possible, and finagle the whole shebang over the flange. You might should be able to put the adjusters together and the upper tension spring on, then get it all into place and just have to worry about the hold-downs and then the lower tension spring. It's pretty damn easy when there's enough room to make that work, just watch that you don't push a wheel cylinder piston out while getting one shoe seated on the other piston.

I've always hated brake spring pliers, other than on some hold-down retainers. I found a set of 5" or so needle nose vise grips worked way better more often than not, especially on bigger stuff with room... sometimes on smaller setups the retainers are all but behind the hub. But when they work... just grab one hook on a tension spring and stretch into place, preferably grabbing so that a jaw was applying force into the 'belly' of the hook to keep it from flying off. And on retainers, just kinda loosely grab it parallel to the nail, use it to compress the spring, and turn 90 degrees, while holding the head of the nail from the back side with a finger.

 

Thanks I will try and order this items tonight.