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AC Repair Question

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by LarryJ, Aug 13, 2019.

  1. Aug 13, 2019 at 6:56 PM
    #1
    LarryJ

    LarryJ [OP] '97 Tacoma SR5, Auto, V6 - Virginia Beach

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    Need to get the AC repaired. Previous owner says it needs a new compressor. Spoke to a nearby repair shop on the phone and they recommend replacing all components vs just the compressor, if that's the problem. Seems like unnecessary costs. Thoughts.
     
  2. Aug 13, 2019 at 7:30 PM
    #2
    pulldo

    pulldo Well-Known Member

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    If the compressor self destructed , there will be shrapnel all throughout the system, you can't flush condensors and get them clean enough. I heard the same thing about taco evaporators but i don't know that for sure. So that doesn't leave much that's salvageble just a few items.
     
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  3. Aug 13, 2019 at 7:40 PM
    #3
    0xDEADBEEF

    0xDEADBEEF Trash Aficionado

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    I've been wrestling with this same question. Mine all still works...but it's leaking under the dash. Even if I fix the one thing that's broken now, the rest of the system has 19 years and nearly 200,000 miles on it.

    At the very least I think I'd have them do the orings. But once you get to them, you're like 80% of the way to replacing everything. I dunno.


    Here's a how to that will at least get you familiar with what all is involved

    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1st-gen-a-c-system-replacement-how-to-seized-compressor.293204/
     
  4. Aug 13, 2019 at 9:17 PM
    #4
    djohn24

    djohn24 Well-Known Member

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    In this case, the repair shop would be correct. If your mechanically inclined? Buy all your parts and remove parts, flush lines, install new parts and then take it to the shop and have them vacuum system and fill it. Around $100-120 in my area. Good write - up on here to do it yourself, start to finish.
     
    S.B. likes this.
  5. Aug 14, 2019 at 12:15 AM
    #5
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    Pretty much standard if your paying to have things done.

    Nothing like having numerous reworks to get things all sorted out .

    Then the shop doing the work has no idea was the system open to the air the last 10 years .
     
  6. Aug 14, 2019 at 6:43 AM
    #6
    djohn24

    djohn24 Well-Known Member

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    List of parts to be replaced buying from Ebay... Condenser) $50 Evaporator core) $50 Drier) $15 expansion valve) $12 Compressor) $90 for a reman or $160 new, So, $217 in parts with a reman compressor or $287 with a new compressor. Then your cost to have shop vacuum and fill.

    What price were you quoted for them to do all the work?
     
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    #6
    cruiserguy likes this.
  7. Aug 14, 2019 at 6:49 AM
    #7
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    For 70 buck difference I would definitely go with new OEM compressor. Wait are these prices new OEM parts? Or cheapy aftermarket stuff? Seems low on price for OEM parts
     
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    #7
    Wyoming09 and djohn24[QUOTED] like this.
  8. Aug 14, 2019 at 6:55 AM
    #8
    djohn24

    djohn24 Well-Known Member

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    aftermarket, I know several people that have used aftermarket a/c parts without issue. Other areas of truck I do stick to oem.
     
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  9. Aug 14, 2019 at 7:12 AM
    #9
    Wulf

    Wulf no brain just damage

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    Has the system been open to air for any amount of time?

    If so I'd replace everything and flush out all of the lines with acetone or brake cleaner. My condenser had a hole in it for about 2 years and after replacing the condenser, dryer, and expansion valve and replacing all associated o rings my AC works OK but not great.

    I pulled a vacuum on the system for hours then made sure it held overnight before taking it to have a shop verify and refill it.
     
  10. Aug 14, 2019 at 9:39 AM
    #10
    96towcoma

    96towcoma Well-Known Member

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    I always use a new filter drier, and orfice tube if applicable. I just bought a denso drier for our trucks onRock Auto...very reasonable. Like $40 IIRC
     
  11. Aug 14, 2019 at 12:35 PM
    #11
    Glamisman

    Glamisman Well-Known Member

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    The reason why the compressor needs to be replaced is important. Most are replaced because the front seal leaks freon. If that is the case and you have the tools, time and knowledge, I would put a compressor and a new receiver dryer on her. If the compressor is mechanically bad then the CYA is to replace everything.
     
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  12. Aug 14, 2019 at 4:18 PM
    #12
    LarryJ

    LarryJ [OP] '97 Tacoma SR5, Auto, V6 - Virginia Beach

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    Hey, thanks for all the replies and advice. There's no way I'd attempt this myself. I had trouble disconnecting the clips that hold on the grill when I was replacing the horn. Never did get it off.

    I accidentally turned on the AC a month ago and it made one hell of a squeal, then quieted down and was blowing semi-cool air. So I decided to charge the system. Got to a decent charge, then freon started spewing out under the hood.

    Had a quote from a guy to evacuate, install a new compressor, and recharge for $300, plus parts. Might just give it a shot.

    I doubt the system has been open to the air unless something broke allowing it to be. The previous owner didn't appear to do any work himself. It's a nice truck with 185k on a replaced engine.
     
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    #12
    Wulf[QUOTED] likes this.
  13. Aug 14, 2019 at 4:21 PM
    #13
    Wulf

    Wulf no brain just damage

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    $300 plus parts? That sounds OK for vacuum, charge, and an hour to install compressor.

    FWIW I paid $180 for a vacuum and charge
     
  14. Aug 14, 2019 at 5:53 PM
    #14
    SteveFaust

    SteveFaust Well-Known Member

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    I was dealing with system that wasn't working, compressor was functioning but no cooling. replaced other components evaporator, expansion valve, drier. Had systems charged and pressure tested worked great blew cold. Got in it two days later and no cold air!! Appears leak somewhere under dash or between cab & engine compartment. UGH!!!
     
  15. Aug 14, 2019 at 6:27 PM
    #15
    Glamisman

    Glamisman Well-Known Member

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    I quit using "pressure" as a way of pressure testing AC systems a while back. I will purge the system of freon on hook up my vacuum pump and pull 30" of vacuum then close the manifold gauge and watch the needle. If it moves towards the positive I will bleed off the vacuum then plug those lines and pull a vacuum again. If it still leaks I will disconnect the next closest connection, plug that and proceed until the system holds 30" of vacuum.
     
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