New Guy Roast/Fumoto Valve Durability

After 9.5 years in a 2010 Tacoma Off-Road, which just unfortunately got totaled after a wreck, I just got another 2019 Double Cab Limited. This is my first post, so feel free to roast me accordingly. If you don't mind, please throw some valuable feedback in as well.

Here we go - Has anyone had the Fumoto oil drain plug valve for a period of time? It's not a cost concern. It's an "I'm driving in the New Jersey winter and ice/snow kicks up and hits the valve and all of the oil drains out" thing. Have the salt and road grime degraded the ball valve's seal at all? I am looking at the F103 or the

$38 F103N with LC-10 lever clip FN-Series Engine Oil Drain Valve, 1 Pack

F103N.

I'm 2 days into owning the new truck and wanted this post to have some time to get attention before my first oil change. There isn't an aftermarket skid plate protecting my drain plug, just the standard plate that only covers the front of the engine undercarriage.

Any feedback/experience would be great.

Thanks.

 

Welcome to the forum. I am not familiar with drain valve you are asking about so I just took a look at them. I would shy away from them for 2 reasons. I am sure the company takes steps to reduce corrosion but it sits at the bottom of the engine in all the salt and dirt. Eventually it will fail. The other issue is that it sits at the bottom of the engine. To me it is too much a risk knocking it off and disabling your truck.

Another thing is, if you follow the recommended oil change intervals... you will be doing changes once a year unless you drive a lot. The original drain plug seems to be the best option IMO.

 

What's the advantage of having one? Changing the oil on the 3rd Gen involves removing so many other bolts and then the filter. Loosening the drain plug adds like 30 seconds to a 20 minute oil change. I'm not against the Fumoto but I just don't see it as a time saver.

 

Have had one on my four cylinder for ~2 years of Colorado driving, snow on the roads and all. Looks like new once I scrape the dirt off it. Can’t speak to how far it sticks out on the 6 cyl. I have the

$42 F103SX M12-1.25 Sx Series Drain Valve, Bronze

F103SX on mine, both for the lower profile and for the ability to hook up a drain line directly into an empty old oil jug (skipping a drain pain is awesome).

 

I’ve had the N version in for ~10 years with no issues, no corrosion. I do have skids. Fast tool free oil changes, no mess, no dropping the plug in your oil pan, no replacing gaskets. Put one in my wife’s car and two shit box commuters I’ve owned as well.

Ice/snow won’t rotate the valve.

Edit: I’m in A 2nd gen, don’t know anything about 3rd gen oil changes...

 

Fumoto and their EZ Drain derivative are exceptionally high quality items. I run the EZ in a pressurized application, the cartridge filter drain, and have had zero issues with millions of miles driven on hundreds of vehicles. The 3rd gen pan drain does hang straight down, so make sure it doesn't hang below the frame. I have not had a chance to install one on my 2019, so I'll grab some measurements today.

 

I have full skids and I’ve used

$37 F103s LC-10 Lever Clip FS-Series Engine Oil Drain Valve, 1 Pack

F103s with a short nipple and added 2” of tube and zip tied it to the nipple. It folds up into the skid drain hole easily and stays there. I simply reach in there to pop it down and flip the valve to mess free draining. 70+k on it now with no issues but I would probably be leery of using a valve without having skids.

 

Those drain valves are great. I put them on all my vehicles, no issues so far. They make oil changes so much cleaner.

 

What valve do you use for the cartridge housing?

 

I know several folks who use them in vehicles where they have high frequency changes. They do make life cleaner and easier.

For my 10k changes, they aren't really worth my effort to swap. BTW, unless some previous ham fisted goon has mangled the washer, I've never replaced a washer on a pan and never had a leak. Changing one every oil change is cheap, yes, but unneeded, at least for me.

While my Tacoma still has a spin on filter (and a trans dipstick, yea!) we did just acquire another Toyota that has a cartridge filter. Something I've not had to futz with since the 60's. Retro oil filters, meh.

So I am interested in learning more about how to set up that for ease of use........

How does that work?

While my other Toyota may not have the same filter, I'm interested in knowing this too. It might help me know where to start.

 

Same vehicle in my garage. The oil change process is so different from the Tacoma you had. The one minute the valve saves in time is nothing in comparison to the filter removal process. Just not worth the few minutes saved. Take a look in the manual about the complete process.

 

I have put a Fumoto on all of my previous cars and never had any issues...I just put one on my truck, since I ran out of free dealer oil changes...

Take it one step further OP...this is on my to-do list before the next oil change.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-fumoto-valve-on-oil-filter-cartridge.566918/

 

Wisconsin.... land of cheese and road salt. I've had Fumoto valves on my last four vehicles, and I've never had an issue.
I had one on a previous truck for 100K miles.

Highly recommend them.

 

I have the valve and it was one of my best purchases. No tools needed to change my oil, I can slide the waste oil container directly underneath and let it drain right into it, and I can change my oil while it’s burning hot (oil flows out so much better).

I’ve been running it for 4 years with no issues

 

10k miles on mine and one dumb tech who removed the valve instead of opening it and mine works fine still.

 

Unless you're changing the oil once a month, it just seems like a lot of work to save a few oil drips and mess. +1 for creativity, however.

 

The filter cap has a m20 x 1.5 thread and takes the 105 valve. They may or may not seal well on the stock cap. I do produce a HD cap with the valve as an option, it's not for everyone, but most folks like it.

The valve is designed with a pressure rating of 250psi/17bar! It holds the system pressure with a huge safety factor. Holding oil in the sump pan is beyond easy for them.

 

I agree the tech was dumb.

However, why would you install one of these then have someone else change the oil?

 

I've been looking for one of your caps with the valve but have been unable to find them in stock anywhere. Do you have a link?

 

I've run them on 3 different cars, and NEVER had a problem with the valves. Very nice product.

I personally like the fact that it has a nipple you can put a hose on to run the oil into a milk jug.