Best wheels for clearing 35’s?

Started cutting yesterday to fit 35s. Idk how anyone claims minimal cutting and lots of caster to make this work. You must not go wheeling.

Im running the Ray 10s, 4.74” BS? This is with a 1.25” wheel spacer to offset the wheel and Im still having to cut a significant amount to make it work.

Obviously a 2nd gen but it’s the same concept.

 

Bro that just looks painful... are those 35x12.5 or 315/75?

 

Right on. Yeah the snorkel is another thing I’m not sure I’m sold on yet. Some look alright others not so much, but yeah you’re right when saying it will be needed when removing the fender liners.

 

35x12.5x17.

It took a few minutes to get the first cut. I’m not trying to limit the suspension travel at all so I have high expectations I guess?

 

You’re trying to do it right, that’s all I’ll want to do lol. Daaaamn though! Good luck!

 

IMO, there’s no point it in doing it half assed. If you aren’t willing to do the work, stick with 33s.

 

Especially when dumping 5k+ into suspension, dam straight brother!

 

You sticking stock length? Going with UCAs, coil overs, etc?

 

As of right now I want to do the extended travel kings with compression adjustits, but yeah all OEM. Long travel would be great but I just can’t fathom spending that much right now lol.

 

IMO 35's is a big commitment, costly, and a lot of work. Ya it looks great but if you don't have those 3 going for ya just stick to 33's. I had myself and 2 welding Journeyman friends work on my truck about 20-30hrs last weekend to do it right.

 

Wow! So I’m getting some mixed info, I’ve heard a couple guys talk about how they can fit with a aggressive cmc and flattening pinch welds with a 2.5” lift without hardly any rubbing. And now here y’all are saying it’s a nightmare making them fit! Is every truck that different?

 

I’d use the word “nightmare” a little more carefully, but yes? Haha.

There are a lot of variables when it comes to tire fitment. My assumption is that the people who claim to make 35s fit with an aggressive CMC don’t wheel their truck the same as I do and dont have as high of expectations. Maybe they are okay with rubbing when off roading, etc. I’m not opposed to it, but when I was cycling my suspension with a 35 there was absolutely no way I could have wheeled my truck without substancial rubbing. I’m not okay with that.

 

I’ll just leave this here.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/intro-to-fitting-35s-3-lifts.594309/

You don’t need to do half the stuff people here are claiming.

The only rub I have a very slight on the top of the wheel well where the pinch weld is up high and it’s so minimal and so rare and full compression and that I don’t bother doing more.

 

Every truck is different. There's too many variables. UCA's (some require certain wheel backspacing to clear 35's, Alignment numbers, BMC's, Brand/type of tire, wheel specs, liftt height, use of truck (flexing hardcore/dd), etc.

Is it possible to get away w/o major cutting? Absolutely. But you need everything to be just right. If going for 35's I'd make sure I'm at least willing to cut and if it's not required than great.

 

No not really. The trucks are pretty much the same. Yes you can make it harder for yourself but you don’t have to as long as you ensure your backspacing and alignments are done correctly to fit.

 

Stock yes. You add Light Racing brand UCA's and I add JBA UCA's. Now there are different and have different alignment capabilities. That alone can differ from cutting fenders or not.

Just from the JBA website:

Please Note: 32.7" and larger diameter tires need aftermarket wheels with less then factory wheel back space. Wheel recommendation

LT285/70R17 (32.7" x 11.2") tire on 17 x 9 wheel, -12mm offset (4.50" backspace)

LT285/70R17 (32.7" x 11.2") tire on 17 x 8.5 wheel, -9mm offset (4.30" backspace)

LT285/75R16 (32.8" x 11") tire on 16 x 9 wheel, -19mm offset (4.25" back space)

LT255/85R16 (33.10" x 10") tire on 16 x 8 wheel, -12mm offset (4" back space)

LT315/70R17 (34.4" x 12.4") tire on 17 x 9 wheel, -25mm offset (4.00" backspace)

So just by running JBA's now you require at least a 4.0 backspace wheel to run 35's. You're right...no variables involved

 

Not at all actually. I recommend you take a moment to read that thread specifically on how alignments work. The bulk of my alignment and the fitting of my tires came from the lower cam bolts.

 

No, not at all. There are an abundance of differences between trucks all the way down to the frame, and then you add the list that @mAtTyG04 mentioned. Not saying I disagree with you, if you’re cool with the rubbing you have, or are okay with limiting suspension to make a bigger tire fit then great!

Not everyone has the same expectations though and really what’s the purposes of going 35s if you’re not willing to put in the work?

 

I already have the full functionality of the 35 without needing to put it, “all the work.”

I’ve worked on 4 3rd Tacoma’s now all with different parts and they are all pretty much the same. The 3rd gen has a specific window to work in, if you go outside that then yes other factors begin to compound.

The OP asked what wheel he needed and I provided it, he doesn’t need fiberglass, he doesn’t need fender trimming, he’s doesn’t need to tub etc etc etc

If he wants then he can certainly go down that path but he doesn’t need to.

 

You obviously do not have full functionality if you A) rub throughout the travel and B) limit your up travel with a bump stop.

Again, I’m not here to argue with you or anyone else. We all have different expectations. I answered the OPs question from my experience and the conversation carried from there.

Don’t come into a thread and act like your word is bliss because we disagree. You won’t get that satisfaction from me.