Is this a broken rear axle seal?

So I had the bearings and seals replace a few years ago and the seal on the drivers side is leaking. Can I just replace the seals? 2003 4x4 extra cab 2.7 auto

 

(for people who search in the future and find this thread...I know Timmy the Toolman has detailed videos for this job, but I thought it would be nice to have a printable step by step write-up to follow as well)

Just a heads up that I had to replace the rear axle seals on my 3rd gen 4Runner and 1st gen Taco - both in the last month. Required a few special tools, and of course the requisite parts, but was a reasonably straight forward job (full story).

Wrote up the list of tools needed, all the parts (with numbers) and a detailed step-by-step guide in a printable format here:

Step-by-Step Replacing Rear Axle Seal & Bearing w/ABS (1st gen Tacoma or 3rd gen 4Runner)​

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I guess the ultimate flattery is somebody duplicating your work in another form. I've seen this done before where a guy prefers write-ups over videos. But, you could have saved yourself a lot of time creating this write-up and just told people you referenced these three videos to get the job done.

https://www.youtube.com/embed/AVhSDnw2ugo


https://www.youtube.com/embed/R-c2x3F8DU4


https://www.youtube.com/embed/IJkVEBYSecs

 

Is the diff fluid level below where the axle is? In other words, do you have to drain the diff fluid? How much fluid comes out of the axle holes if you don't drain the diff?

 

Hard to say how much comes out if you don’t drain the diff 1st, but to answer your question, you do have to drain the diff, at least partially or you’ll get gear oil spilling out of the ends of the axle. If you’re trying to save the gear oil because you recently changed it, you could just drain it into a clean container.

 

i cannot wait to do this and knock a bunch of birds out with one stone while everythings apart
do suppose you have to remove the seal anyways to take the gears out of the housing?

approximately what mileage should this rear axle seal be changed

 

Thanks Timmy. It was really more of theoretical question as I still do not have a hydraulic press. I am getting tired of hearing the bearings screaming as I drive down the road, though.

 

To pull your 3rd member, you need to pull the axles completely out or out just enough to clear the 3rd member. You don’t have to remove the seals.

The mileage at which axle seals will fail seems to be in the 100-150k range based from my experience, but time is a factor as well. These rigs are old and seals get more brittle and less pliable with age. To see if your seals are currently holding, pull the ABS sensors on the ends of you axle housing and then look inside at the ABS tone ring. Rotate the axle and see if gear oil is lapping onto the tone ring. If you see gear oil, your seal(s) are shot.

This video will help you with removing and replacing your 3rd member: https://youtu.be/ZMTbgY1xQKk

 

Get yourself a Harbor Freight 20 ton press, a press sleeve kit like we use and maybe some extra press plates and don’t look back. A press is a super handy tool to have. I’ve used it for a ton of jobs. Definitely money well-spent.

 

this is my current mileage range
if ABS are anti-lock brakes i do not think i have that feature

 

A quick look at the rear axle housing will let you know. If you have a cable going to a sensor that plugs into the end of the axle housing near the brake backing plate, you have ABS. If you don't see the sensors, then you're right, you don't have ABS.

For non-ABS rigs, watch the 1st video below but don't buy the Durasolid tool. Buy the tool that we showcase in the ABS Part 2 video.

https://www.youtube.com/embed/vW25hvODHcs


https://www.youtube.com/embed/R-c2x3F8DU4

 

@GQ7227 - even if you don't have ABS on the vehicle, you might have ABS axles, since all trucks with e-lockers have the ABS rear axles. Timmy's method of inspection is a great one in that case!

 

i may not have the e-lockers on mine since its an older model

 

Here's how you can tell easily. If you have the orange RR DIFF LOCK switch on your dash, you've got an e-locker. If you don't, then you don't.

In the pic below, it's the switch between the steering column and the round dash dimmer.

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