TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Neither. The apr studs I posted a pic of are the same size as factory studs but the factory studs fit slightly less tight. So running a tap through it trues the hole to size.

It's the newer ones that usually have issues. If you did a search, @Torspd posted a thread about it a long time back.

 

Don’t know what to tell you. I had a very easy time with it. I did lots of searching at the time of install, been a while.

 

These are the threads I saved around the time of install. I found lots of good general information outside of TW. @henryp
Sorry if I recalled the year thing backwards, but as a 2012 it was a non issue.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-remove-the-exhaust-manifold-studs.498645/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/arp-head-header-studs.223129/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/urd-spec-u-equal-length-long-tube-headers.298213/

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1st-post-re-exhaust-manifold-flange-stud-removal.620743/

 

It's going down! Found a small leak on the gasket between the supercharger and the surge tank. Got that gasket just in case. Also the bypass valve will not hold pressure at all. I can push it in, put my finger on the outlet and it just closes. New one does not until I remove my finger. Don't think I have a leak at the intercooler lid. Think the FIPG was holding. Ran a tap down all the holes and the 3 that felt bad took threads. Going to put a bolt in and bottom it out and see if it will hold 9 ftlbs. If so, just going to put the new gasket in and put it all back together. Also going to wait to put the Eaton coupler on for about 20k. I just put the green one on in March I think. And changed the oil then. So I will just wait to do another maintenance. Or should I just do it? Damn decisions!


But the question is. Do I remove the brass "shock" in the bypass now or just leave it.

 

Hey all. I go away for a few months and suddenly there are another 500 pages of posts.

Been working through a new job and shoulder surgery recovery.....

cracked open my intercooler tank to check the level and instead of pink it is a nice shade of orange. Thanksgiving giving will be one year and I filled with brand new Toyota Long Life coolant.
Anyone else seen this? Looks to me like internal corrosion.

 

Wow! It sounds like you had a multi problem issue! The answer is obvious, remove the brass jet! If your bypass valve will be adjusted correctly then it won't cause you any issues while opening and closing shut. Also, there is no need to replace the solid coupler. They don't go bad. I can't wait to see your results after it is all together!

Are you sure you are not color blind? How many miles has it been since you did a coolant service on it?

 

Did you do the prediluted 50/50 coolant or the concentrated one? Looks pinkish to me, but I’m sure you can see it better.

 

Mine looks the same. I think it is just the direct sunlight on the surface in the tank. Pull some out and check under artificial light. It looks fine for me. As long as it is full of fluid.

 

as long as its distilled water and full your fine. im about to change out my summer coolant for glycol and water.

 

So I got screwed today in terms of needing to wait a couple more days to get the blower cut to then get the 2.7 installed, pulley wrap done, FPR, and upload my custom ov 2.7 tune.

My guy at the shop called off today so I’m going back Thursday morning.

Also, so my other new upgrades are a JFR y-pipe. #TE 20 to be exact. The member who bought it never even unwrapped it so it’s obviously unused at this point. I’ll be ceramic coating it (like my current URD y-pipe) to keep it cool (no pun intended) and to protect it from the shitty Midwest weather.
Also, I’ll be buying this members Figgs reservoir. Why you ask.......why the fuck not, I like bling!! So it’s me and you @ThomasMore66, me and you against the world!! Fuck em!!!!

 

Oh it's on now @JuanitoBunito!
Congratulations!

 

@mr.trd I keep my jet installed. First you need to ask yourself why Magnuson put it there in the first place?
I would do a simple test with the uninstalled valve. See how quickly it works with jet in and out. Then you determine if you want to keep it out.
Most of us wouldnt drive our trucks without shocks installed (bouncing around on springs and no dampers), the bypass valve also benefits from this "controlled" damping.

Roost

 

I noticed a positive difference in throttle tip in smoothness when i took mine out, but i have a 6spd, so i think itd be different with the auto. Mine was a bit clunky/jerky if youd get onto the gas too quick with the bypass jet in

 

i second this feels lovely with a 6 speed.

 

I was thinking the same on the jet. Why did they use it in the first place?

 

Who’s running with an auto? I had it in my list but curious why it was added.

 

.

Me

 

Interesting! So now we need to think of why the 6 speed is different......
Quicker rpm changes, clutch engagement, etc. I hadn't thought about this before because I am auto.
Regardless if it were me I'd get an extra jet then drill out my stock one VERY little at a time to get the orifice diameter only large enough to eliminate your problem. Like revalving a shock but still keeping the shock as part of the system.

 

My first thoughts were that the main difference is likely in power delivery due to the trans. The auto is gonna have some slippage in the torque converter, where as the manual (if the clutch is engaged) will not slip and immediately start putting the power down when you tip into the throttle

 

If someone really wanted to investigate this they could get an adjustable valve, place it in the vac line, remove jet.
Then you could adjust the valve anywhere you want from emulating a super restrictive jet to a removed one or anywhere in between.