extra reverse light wiring

im shur there is a thred out there that could answer my question, but im not having very good luck with technology today so ill just ask....feel free to lonk me if you can. I wanna add 2 of the rectangular fog lights to my trailer hitch...or somewhere back there for more reverse lightage....my question is can i just wire these lights into the stock reverse light wiring so they kick on automatically, or should i run them to a rocker switch...or both? which is safest and works best?

 

I would run them with both I'm sure there is a relay you add in between that can trigger them both. I'm not that experienced with relays I just started a Thread about off road lighting.

I do know one thing I wouldn't just wire them up the the factory wiring without a relay hopefully someone will chime in that knows what there doing.

 

If you want them to come on every time you put the truck in reverse, then you don't need a switch, just a relay and a power source (not the tail lights unless the lights you're adding are low draw, like an LED). Personally, I'd just put a switch in so you can turn them on and off manually.

If you want them to light up everytime you're in reverse, tap into your tail light wire for the switch and use a fused line for the power in. That would mean the relay always has power but won't switch on the lights until the stock tail lights come on (ie, in reverse). The downside is you have no control over the lights, they come on everytime your tail lights come on.

 

Dood, check out my write-up. If you have a hitch already, it this is tailor-made for you.

These are wired to the reverse light.

Pilot Navigator NV-803, about $30-$40 on JC Whitney, I believe.

The first place to look for lighting stuff, by the way, is in the lighting forum...that's where my thread lives.


http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/lighting/83616-1st-gen-extra-backup-lights-mod-writeup.html

 

If you have a tow package (connector to plug trailer to) you can tap into the reverse lights for those, the amp load should be ok as your electrical system will just think you have a trailer on, and they will automatically go on/off with your reverse lights. I did it this way, but I made it so I can disconnect them if I ever do have a trailer, that way I am not powering 2 sets of lights if I have a trailer hooked up.

If you do not have trailer connector, you should run a releay to trigger off your reverse lights. I would not simply tap into the existing wiring without a relay as you will basically double your draw on those wires and they were not designed for that (melting, fire, etc...not good)

 

ok....sounds like im runnin them to a rocker switch hahaha and i totally forgot about the lighting section haha my bad

 

Wouldn't this work?

 

I'm about to do the same thing. I found this thread in another forum that has a great write up if you want to put in a relay and switch.

 

If I was doing a setup like this, that is exactly how I'd do it.

Toyota wires may be good enough and all, but it will also depend on the size of lights your running. The towing lights might be a good harness to use if you have the factory tow package (not positive on wire gauge), but if you dont, you could easily be overloading the wires.

A lot also depends on the type of lights you'll be using. If you're using some 55 watt halogen, they'll drain a lot more power (thus require thicker wire) than some leds.

Either way, I think I'd still run a connection to the battery. That way you get your independent fuse for the lights, which is right there with your other fuses and you know for certain that you aren't overloading your wiring.

You could probably get by with some 16 gauge wire running both lights but I wouldn't go any lower than 14 gauge. When I ran wire to the back bumper, I ran 12 gauge since I wasn't sure (and still dont know) what lights I'd be running. I'm kinda a fan of over wiring though.

btw, if you wanted to use a dual relay setup, you could both have a switch and have then auto turn on in reverse. Seems a lot more useful than just having them only auto turn on. If you mounted the lights in your bed, you could have them as dual purpose bed lights and backup lights, for instance.

 

thanks for the link

 

thanks for input and all the diagrams

 

thanks jlee......i was just bein lazy and hoped i could just tap into the reverse light, but i think im gonna get off my lazy arse and run 12 gauge wire from battery to relay to switch and to lights.....that just sounds safer than tappin into small factory wiring and prolly effin somethin up

 

Good choice you don't want to start a fire and burn your nice truck to the ground. It shouldn't cost more then $20 for the relay and the wire.

 

I wired mine direct with a switch on the dash. I use them all the time for backing, but mainly so you can have light behind you to close gates you go through or just to have the extra light. Got them at Wal-mart, 55watt halogen, very bright and cost I think about $24 bucks.

 

nice set up

 

its not the money its the electrical wiring knowledge i am worried about haha

 

Since it sounds like your first time with something like this, I would suggest pre-wiring everything up outside of the vehicle so you can see how everything goes together and to make sure it works. If you want very specific details about what wire to run and how to do it, let us know.

For example, you should get some wire loom to run the wire through. Just the cheap stuff with a split down the center is fine. It'll help protect the wire from rubbing and the elements.

Make sure to zip tie everything up.

For the main power, as stated above, I'd go with 12 gauge. This is the wire that is going from the battery to the relay and then to the lights. If using 2 Halogen lights, you're probably looking at a 10 amp fuse, but it doesn't hurt to calculate it yourself (watts/12volts = amps). You may have to go with a 15 amp fuse though, depending if the lights spike when first turning on. Since when the truck is running, you're actually running at 13.8 volts (or close), that same fuse will still work for you. If the lights you buy has wire that comes with it, I wouldn't use it for this run.

For the other wire that is going to the switch, you could tap into accessory power, into the fuse box using an "add a fuse", or even a line to the battery, depending when you want it to be able to be turned on. This wire can be fairly thin since it only needs enough current to power an electromagnet in the relay, and the led on the switch. 18 gauge would be fine (I used 16 gauge) with a 1 amp fuse (since you cant go smaller easily).

Fuses always go between power source and the item connecting, as close to the power source as reasonable.

For joining wires, soldering is really the best method, but I tend to use male/female wire terminals for ease of replacement when the light needs to be replaced. I do solder the terminal and wire, but with a good crimp, it should be fine. I do use shrink wrap over the terminals to keep out moisture and protect against shorts. You'll need some terminals to connect to the relay anyway.

 

i have installed a few sound systems but i have no idea where relays go or how to wire them bla bla bla and all that fun stuff

 

Physically, I'd put the relay on the fender wall in that nice large open space after the emission vacuum lines. From the battery, its pretty easy to run the wires behind the fuse box, and it gives you easy access to run wires to the rear and inside the cab.

For going to the back, you'll see some metal brake lines coming off the master cylinder near the firewall. I'd pretty much follow those all the way back. As long as you have some loom around the wire, it should be perfectly fine against the elements.

For the switch, just like with audio, you'll have to find a way through the firewall.

As far as the switch goes, the way I'd probably recommend doing it is to get an "add a fuse" and install it into the accessory fuse in the cab fuse box. This way the lights cannot be turned on unless the key is in the ignition so you cant accidentally run your battery down. Make sure to put the necessary fuse back in and a 1 amp fuse in the top. Run a line from your add a fuse to the switch and then from the switch to the relay (85 or 86). If you switch has a led, you'll also need to ground the proper connection (just a short wire going to some metal). As far as which line goes where on the switch, it should be marked, but if it isn't, you'll have to get a ohm meter to see which two are connected when the switch is on.

For wiring the relay, its really simple. You have two circuits that are across from each other, and perpendicular to the other circuit. There really isn't a positive and negative side to the relay. You'll plug the wire coming from the switch into 85 or 86, and connect a ground to the other (85 or 86). (When the switch is turned on, it sends power to the relay, activating the magnet and moving the connector, completing the circuit between 30 (battery) and 87 (lights).)

For the other side of the relay, run a fused 12 gauge line from the battery to 30. Then from from 87 to the lights.