Easiest Raptor Wiring?

Waterproof connector and some tape.

 

I did the add a fuse. Works like DRL, on when the truck is on. You tube.

 

It depends on how you want them to work. I wanted mine on anytime the ignition switch is on.
Here's a link to how I did mine. Simple and easy.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/raptor-style-lights-gen-3-sr5-oe-grill.599190/

 

What rack and roof lights are those? Me likes!

 

A lot of people don't know how to properly solder though.

 

If they're going to be doing electrical mods, they need to learn how. It ain't rocket surgery.

 

@upTOPOverland_Drew

upTOPoverland. They rock as racks. Several lights, some KCs, some others. Check out my lighting thread (turn phone sideways and click lighting thread.
These racks are of the highest quality, the company is responsive and engaged. The mount point options are endless. TW thread starts here:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ies-now-with-free-shipping-conus-only.599113/

What lights?

 

@Cudgel, when you tap the wire, what kind of splice did you use? Like a line man splice? Do you wrap it with electrical tape after since you can't get heat shrink on, unless you cleave the original wire and just splice all three together.

I've also wondered how do you determine if it will over load a circuit? If you add a bunch of lights to a 10 amp fuse don't you run the risk of over loadings it?

Anyone ever use posi taps?

 

Those work in a pinch but I don't consider them good because that pin can break strands in a wire then you're technically losing current carrying abilities.

Any time I can't get heat shrink on I use insulating rubber splice tape.

It ain't cheap though but I get it from work. Rated for 600V.

 

I ordered a set from yotaleds. Install took like 5 minutes

https://www.yotaleds.com/product/amber-led-tacoma-wiring-harness-grill/

 

Yes my preference is to cut and Y-splice, I use these heat gun solder connections that also waterproof them and shrinkwrap over that before bundling with silicon splice tape and finally split tube (exterior).

When there isn’t room, and with some interior wiring I may use a tap, but they are somewhat unreliable. I prefer to scrape off the insulation and solder with a small pencil iron. I’m not opposed to crimp joints inside the cab. Yes I always tape and secure (tie wraps) so connections are supported and don’t vibrate.

Once you get over the fear of cutting open wire bundles, making good connections is the easy part.

As far as overloads, most of my tapping and splicing is to tap a circuit for the low amp side if a relay coil, which I then I use to switch the known amp draw of my accessories. It is fairly easy to double tap a blown fuse and make a jig to insert a amp meter to measure the actual draw on any circuit, but by relying on my own new feeds I don’t have to worry about any of that. Generally if I’m adding less than 10% current to a circuit I don’t worry too much, so if the circuit I’m tapping is 10 amps and the relay coil is 1amp I just do it.

I dry fit and test everything before I finalize my connections and final wrapping.

I run auxiliary fuse/relay boxes wherever I need them:

 

Found it on your light thread. It was the KC G46. I'm slowly piecing my build together.

 

How do you like/rate your battery terminals? they look nice.. I just got myself a set of those. but i am a bit hesitant to install them, because of the way the wire is tighten with the hex head screw, it seems to me that there maybe a way for them to loosen up???

 

I give them a 4 out of 5 stars, only because most everything made in China is typically not actually up to the design specs due to cheating and counterfeit. I was nervous about them and actually ordered two sets in case I stripped them. I have assembled them tight twice which is usually when crap breaks. So far so good.

I’m holding off on trimming the starter lead until the factory battery fails, so one of the leads does not use the full thread of the hex screw and even so it holds tight. I feel they all hold fine and the set screws are variegated on their tips.

Because I always use stranded wire, I very carefully install my connections, measure and dry fit, then do it right and forget about it.

Hope that helps.

 

Roger that... Correct on the stripping, that's is one of my concerns.. Yes, i too like to use stranded wire only, make sure everything is tight and secure, and forget about it... Thanks for the info Sir,

 

Thanks thats a good explanation. I converted my 67 firebird to power disc brakes from manual. With my cam I wasn't making enough vacuum so I had to run a separate relay to power a vacuum pump to power the brakes. Anyways it was definitely the safest way, but I haven't done much wiring on modern vehicles. So you run a separate power line to the battery for each relay? Or is that what you made the additional fuse box for? Id imagine with all those lights you would have a ton of taps to the battery. If you already have a write up on that, Id be super interested. I'm sure everyone would. How do you know if you are exceeding the capacity of your alternator with all of the additional current draws?

I'm guessing a lot of people don't know about relays and proper wiring (myself included). Id love to see your other wiring write up if you have any. I'll search around, but thanks for getting back to me.

 

Some of my stuff is in my build threads. Turn phone sideways and tap links.

I only have two drops direct to my battery. One each for my two accessory fuse/relay panels. (One under hood/one behind rear seat). All my add ones are then powered from these branch circuits.

The alternator doesn’t really get overloaded, rather it can’t keep up with charging the battery if you draw more current and that will eventually reek havoc! I monitor each of my battery voltages.

 

This is the funniest comment yet.

 

https://youtu.be/8bS8CFvX6JA