What is the best flywheel?

What do you all pick for flywheels during a clutch job?

I was very happy to see LuK is only $70 on RockAuto, but upon further research on various Toyota forums, people are saying the quality sucks...

 

If you can find a lighter weight flywheel you'll be able to make more power

I believe the stock flywheel is 20-26lbs and have seen performance flywheels under 18lbs or less

 

@Torspd
@gearcruncher

These 2 guys will probably know.

 

Fidanza makes an aluminum flywheel.

URD makes a steel light weight one (lighter than OEM) and a heavy one for the off-road enthusiasts.

https://www.urdusa.com/clutches-flywheels/

 

LuK is an OEM manufacturer.

 

Do you know if they used both Luk and Aisin in the 2nd Gens?
I have herd they used both at times. And one was reported to be “better” than the other?
Again, this is just something I’ve heard. Seems like the 2.7L trucks were the ones reported?

 

Toyota used both brands in the 2nd Gens.

 

Why are you replacing the flywheel ? Cant you bring it to a machine shop and have it turned down ?
Whats the mileage on your truck ? How long did the original flywheel last ?
If you have no intentions to race your truck , an OEM replacement should function just fine

 

I had a Luk flywheel on my subaru (didnt have time for machine shop) I was happy with it.

 

I had mine turned for $30 if my memory serves me correctly. I really don't see the point in replacing it if your not looking for any performance gains. Maybe you are...

 

same, had one in my Audi; just read that they were supposedly bad in the past with Toyota's, especially with the ring gear and how it engages the starter

no not at all, hence looking at LuK OEM

only issue was planning to do a clutch job over the weekend and the machine shop is closed

no not at all

130k miles; machine shop will be closed over the weekend

am thinking about installing a $70 Luk and crossing my fingers, hoping it works.
And if it doesn't, I can hang onto the removed Aisin flywheel to get turned at a machine shop and pull the trans out again to install that one.

 

I'd just go for it, don't stress about it. If they had serious QC issues, they'd have a shit ton of returns.

Just look at the welds closely and compare it to the OEM.

 

Whenever a customer comes into my shop to have a clutch replaced , it is mandatory that the flywheel is machined .....Usually around 50 bucks . The flywheel is famous for " dishing "
I dont make the new clutches . I only install the clutches . The manufacturer of the clutch forces the installer to re-surface the flywheel in order for the owner of the truck to hold a warranty on the installed clutch .
When a flywheel " dishes " only the outer end of clutch disc mates against the flywheel which seriously depletes the life of a new clutch . You cant see the dishing on the flywheel unless you measure it with a straight edge and a feeler gauge but they do dish bad .
Any transmission technician can tell if a flywheel was machined at the time of clutch replacement .
If you purchase a new clutch and plan to install the clutch yourself , keep the invoice for the money you spent having the flywheel turned down .
If you develop problems with your new clutch and expect a replacement from the seller , the first thing they are going to ask is if you had a machine shop turn down the flywheel

 

will search around some more in the area to see what other shops may offer resurfacing open on the weekend

hopefully they use the right tools to do a quality job

I hear you can only resurface a flywheel (or brake disc) so many times until too much material is removed, but I assume it hasn't been done before on mine and might be the original clutch

not sure how many hours/days it takes them to perform the job. I hate to rush shops with work like that; usually the more time someone has the better quality result they can achieve

 

You are correct .
Regardless of how many clutches have been installed , the OEM thickness of the flywheel is the important part . If the flywheel is too dished or heat cracks are too deep , it will need to be replaced or purchase shims to compensate for the amount of metal that was removed . A good machine shop tells you how much metal was removed to make the surface flat and you install shims between the crankshaft and flywheel to bring it back to OEM specs .
Most guys doing clutch jobs at home do " not " compensate for the metal removed from the flywheel which can create issues for your hydraulic clutch free play . These trucks already have a piss poor clutch design .

 

I fear that as well
imagine pulling out the flywheel, rushing through the repair
only to step and see the thing has a bunch of deep cracks

maybe having a spare $70 new LuK unit would be a good backup in case

if the thing is good, maybe I can resurface and sell to a forum member cheap for their clutch job, to have a clean OEM one

Did not know machine shops put shims, thank you!
Was thinking of turning it on a brake lathe which might remove some thousandth's of an inch; I had no idea of putting shims to compensate for that

I'm not sure if machine shops vary in quality; if some are better than others
speaking of free play; I wonder if installing a ClutchMasters hydraulic TOB can also compensate for that; I believe they have an adjustment range

 

Most machine shops run the flywheel back to flat using a milling machine . Its a very very basic job in a machine shop using a milling machine usually taking no more than half an hour . A machine shop wont sell you the shims , they only tell you how much metal they had to remove to get the flywheel flat . Its up to you to know the factory thickness and purchase the shims to bring the flywheel back to factory specifications
With this being said , 70 bucks for a new flywheel is dirt cheap providing its fabricated with the same concentrate of metals as the OEM flywheel . I would love to see the graphite content in the after factory Luk or the after factory Aisn .
I dont see why a brake lathe couldnt do the same job as a milling machine , just might take a little longer .
I dont know much about the Clutch Masters release bearing having never used it . Got a link ?

 

there's a group buy for it going on now
supposedly it's a better design than stock

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-gen-manual-transmission-fix.624299/page-18#post-22302874

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...bearing-group-buy.643445/page-2#post-22300686

 

Well I need to read . Thanks for the link . Looks like they shortened the release bearing . This is what I was going to do to eliminate all the release bearing issues with the Tacoma . I highly suggest using this company . This is how General Motors did it using the same transmission in the Camero and never had 1 issue with a release bearing
For the guy who doesnt not know how a clutch works ... read the link
hladun ....Merry Christmas dude !!!

For the dealership technician .Taco'09 .... please read the above fix and report back with your thoughts

Here is a link for the OP .. enjoy https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/accumulator-delete-kit-sold-out-forever.583387/

 

I believe when I had my flywheel turned on my Honda.
They machined the lip where the pressure plate bolted to the flywheel.
This did require me to pull the dowel pins. But my understand is that if you turn the lip or surface that the pressure plate bolts to and the flywheel. You are essentially back in spec?

Was this correct?
Or am I remembering things wrong. That’s been 13 years ago.