Transfer case fluid change

I used Mobil1 synthetic. I changed all at 30k. I used the hand pump that you insert in the oil bottle and was little pain in the neck, arm cramps from pumping.
But I have a question. I have now about 55k on mine should I change the fluids at 60k? I never tow anything and I actually drive my truck like a civic

 

Yes. The only down side is that it takes longer to fill than I thought. Just a function of the hose diameter. However, I used to use the bottle top pumps or hand squirt, both of which were a mess. This approach is clean. If I remember correctly, it takes several minutes to fill up the rear diff. Prevents a lot of waste via overflow I guess.

 

I was just wondering about the hose diameter. Wonder how easy/hard it would be to change that. If it’s hard, well that just gives me more time to drink a beer. Thanks for the idea!!

 

Great idea, thank you! Yeah just adapt a bigger hose/fittings/copper and keep is as short as possible. That will speed things up a good bit.

 

Factory service spec calls for every 30k miles iirc

 

https://youtu.be/NUSbm41KDrM

 

I'd like to say a quick thank you to the forum, and especially those who participated in this thread. An hour of my time and about $55 and I changed my own rear diff fluid. Never would have attempted it before this thread! Don't think I'm ready to attempt spark plugs

 

Doing basic maintenance on these vechiles isn't overly complex. As you've discovered there are a tonne (metric ton) of resources on this forum on how to do most anything you could think of. There are some great 'how to' threads/videos on how to change plugs and do other maintenance.

I'd have a look around and read a few threads on changing plugs. If you can change your diff fluid you are mechanically inclined enough to change your spark plugs. Just take your time and make sure you don't cross thread anything.

 

Local guys up the street want $80 to break the drain bolt free. An impact wrench is $100 or less. Seems there are few people on this forum have tried this tool to break the bolt free. Is there a reason, something I am missing? Seems like a cheap investment for those with diy skills

 

which bolt?

 

The troublesome 10mm hex on the front differential drain torqued to 49. I might have posted on the wrong thread.

 

Id try lots of penetrating oil, time, and maybe some heat first. If you round that hex out with an impact then you're kinda F*ed

 

The last diff oil change I did I used the Amsoil easy pack quarts, those are a game changer for me. No pumping while laying on your back, no pump or secondary container to clean out, and you don’t need a straight shot at the fill plug like you do with a normal squeeze bottle. You just squeeze the bag until it’s empty and move onto the next one. Highly recommended.

 

I know this sounds bad, but had I not read this thread, I would have never known to change mine. I take such good care of the truck (this 2011 is my 4rth new Tacoma, the first one I put over 300K on, the second two under 70K each, and this one now has 137K... its by far my favorite though) and drive so smoothly I honestly have never had to do anything to any of them other than batteries, tires, and brakes really. I did have to do a left front wheel bearing on this one however at 130K. A friend did it for me. As an example of how I drive, I replaced the original front brake shoes at 120K and they still had a teeny bit of life left in them.

So anyway I kinda got worried when I read this thread and went ahead and did the rear axle. Soaked it for a day with PB but still busted my hand like an idiot. I had gloves laying on the workbench too.

Really easy job though. The fluid looked decent. It didn't have any viscosity to it though. I mean it was damn close to the viscosity of water really which is interesting. The magnet was basically clean, it had very little shavings on it.

Here's some pics, notice my pump. I bought the $7.99 one at Harbor Freight, used the extension that came with it, and then secured it to the gallon jug of Valvoline Synthetic ($45 + tax)... definitely the way to go vs the 1 quart bottles. Cheaper, less mess, and the pump with the extension was the perfect length sitting at the exact bottom of the jug. Using the duct tape held it perfect and made pumping it easy without the risk of my clumsy self knocking it over or something. I'll buy the individual quarts for the transfer case and front axle, but I'll pour them into the hole I drilled where you see I have the end of the hose stuck in now. Didn't spill a drop.

Pics:

Fluid (I set it on a light so you can see the color after 137K)



My pump rig ($7.99 Harbor Freight special)



ouch

 

Thanks for the heads up!

Did you go with the Amsoil 75-90 Severe Gear?

 

yep, I use severe gear in t-case and axles in all my vehicles

 

So my 2nd gen Tacoma is from Florida and is now in Colorado where the weather is considerably colder... Just wondering if it is an actual thing where tcase fluid can be thicker and freeze quicker because when it is cold here the truck has a very hard time leaving 4hi and just grinds. Sometimes a little and sometimes a lot. It does not do that when it is about 40 degrees outside which is why I believe it has something to do with the fluids. I plan on changing it soon, what is a good fluid for cold weather that doesn't also have issues in warm weather.

 

When you say "grind", I wonder if it can be an intermittant actuator. I have been reading about that here. The contacts inside the actuator are not soldered together. So on the inside of the thing, where the two leads come in from the plug, they just rest against the two leads that go to the little DC actuator motor. Why it was designed like this beats the spit out of me. Pretty stupid. But in cold weather, metal contracts so I could see how there might be "chatter" between your contacts. That may or may not be it. Let me see if I can find that thread for you.

Edit: here ya go. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-trouble-shoot-4x4-actuator.263525/

Edit 2: This is a cool vid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJESG91GbCQ

 

That could be possible, but why is the sound only happening in cold weather? It switches like butter when it is warm enough outside

 

Well the reason I was reading about this is in fact my 4WD won't engage if its really really cold out. It happened last winter several times, and once earlier this year when we actually had some cold weather. My guess is that since metals contract when its cold, a teeny teeny tiny gap may manifest itself between one or both of those contacts inside the actuator. Mine switches fine 90% of the time, but like I said, when its bitter cold, it has done this. I don't think it would have anything to do with viscosity of your fluid though. Its a mechanical activation, its not like something requiring pressure like in an automatic transmission. But I'm no expert lol. Hopefully one of the guru's here will chime in for ya.