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How To Trouble Shoot 4x4 Actuator

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by blackhawke88, Feb 15, 2013.

  1. Feb 15, 2013 at 6:09 PM
    #1
    blackhawke88

    blackhawke88 [OP] wo ai ni bao bei ^_^

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    I have seen a lot of people replacing actuators, which are very expensive. My 4x4 went out a few months ago and I went through the attached factory trouble shoot guide, and found out the two tiny prongs on either side of the actuator motor were barely bent so they couldnt make contact. I soldered the prongs to the motor and everything worked fine:



    205CE86C-BB46-4AB5-8B18-296E7E018001-105_2f151f1363d75c5b5f20d2592050ee3f06764f54.jpg

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Feb 15, 2013 at 6:28 PM
    #2
    92dlxman

    92dlxman drinking whats on sale

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    thank you, i was kindof lurking in that thread and am sure this will benefit many of us a few miles down the road
     
  3. Feb 15, 2013 at 8:11 PM
    #3
    Vstrom30

    Vstrom30 Well-Known Member

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    That is some good info.
     
  4. Feb 15, 2013 at 8:16 PM
    #4
    FreidTaco

    FreidTaco boost

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    URD Stage 3 SC. 35" duratracs LT
    Is this what your t case looks like?

    [​IMG]
    Photo from DCtacoboy4x4

    Do not touch transfer case.
    GO to front diff.
     
    DC92T likes this.
  5. Feb 15, 2013 at 8:24 PM
    #5
    blackhawke88

    blackhawke88 [OP] wo ai ni bao bei ^_^

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    The 4x4 actuator is at the front diff
     
    Crom likes this.
  6. Feb 16, 2013 at 1:55 PM
    #6
    FreidTaco

    FreidTaco boost

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    DO this!!! It worked!!!
    I will post up more pictures to help out future people
    THANKS again MAN!!!!
     
  7. Feb 16, 2013 at 2:14 PM
    #7
    FreidTaco

    FreidTaco boost

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    URD Stage 3 SC. 35" duratracs LT
    20130216_143024_zps965f840b_86a98a58ab173e238595a752a0e7b31a6f5b1053.jpg
    I had to drop the two front diff brackets to get to the top 2 bolts.


    20130216_143017_zpse621ff38_fc0b1958cf71f306d399b36683c9efefcc70a5c5.jpg
    I ended up replacing the vacuum hose because i cut it a little while replacing it.


    20130216_121457_zps0340e4c0_e86ee66d7ad270bb751604fa079d1e407a987425.jpg
    This is what it looks like out of the diff. Make sure you clean the old silcone gasket off before installing.


    20130216_121532_zps30a2ed93_65944c8d2cc5e62096023fce0072fbd05e081318.jpg
    Top side with the 5 screws you have to remove.


    20130216_121805_zps3f5e88c7_e6d060321072e5679d96853fcae1f906836d7be1.jpg
    Here are how my terminals looked. They looked pretty close but i could see ark marks on one side.


    20130216_141147_zps4c8b75db_1b0c971eb5e87d08946e3398d51bcb79fef368d2.jpg
    My soldering looks poor here but i touched it up before installing.
    I soldered both terminals on the motor and both on the switch as well just for insurance.

    And then reverse order to assemble.
    Thanks again blackhawke88 +1
     
    Marc70, jrmobb, divetruck and 6 others like this.
  8. Feb 16, 2013 at 8:43 PM
    #8
    blackhawke88

    blackhawke88 [OP] wo ai ni bao bei ^_^

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    :D glad i could help!
     
  9. Feb 17, 2013 at 8:17 PM
    #9
    romafern

    romafern Hug diz nuts

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    Paid for and saving a shit ton of $$$$$
    Thinking of adding a second battery...
    Good work to the both of you!!!!!

    Send blackhake88 some beer.


    Mods, make a sticky out of this.


    As for the dealers, shame on you for trying to rip off the owners.
     
    TWTaco and jahsonferg like this.
  10. Feb 17, 2013 at 8:51 PM
    #10
    username

    username Fluffer

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    Mine was the T-case actuator. It has three slide contacts that corroded. I tried to fill the pitting with solder and sanding it flat, which worked for about a year, then I converted my T-case to manual shift and just locked the front diff actuator then unplugged it. Works every time now. Both actuators are a really bad design and the weakest link in the factory 4wd system.
     
  11. Feb 17, 2013 at 8:58 PM
    #11
    romafern

    romafern Hug diz nuts

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    Thinking of adding a second battery...
    Agree with you. :cool:
     
    GrayRock likes this.
  12. Feb 17, 2013 at 9:03 PM
    #12
    chilidogrc

    chilidogrc Play stupid games, win stupid prizes

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    I concur :cool:
     
  13. Feb 19, 2013 at 11:49 PM
    #13
    uscg2008

    uscg2008 Well-Known Member

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    CLICK ON SIGNATURE>>>>
    Def gana have to try this when I get home from deployment in st paul island.
    cause this is my problem

    I can shift into 4wd hi and I hear it click in but the light just keeps blinking. Then when I got to switch in into 4lo while I'm in neutral it doesn't shift and just keeps beeping. Then the only way I can get out of 4hi is to shut the truck off, then switch to 2wd then turn the truck back on and it will then click out.

    Any ideas?
     
  14. Mar 6, 2013 at 4:58 PM
    #14
    ProjektTaco

    ProjektTaco New Member

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    Did the trick for the time being! I also had some faint arcing marks on one of the prongs, soldered it and works perfect. Beats paying $650 for a new actuator! Thanks!!
     
  15. Mar 6, 2013 at 5:05 PM
    #15
    MudFlap

    MudFlap Well-Known Member

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    Marking this one in my browsers fave list for later.

    I wonder thought, is this a FIX? or is this more like a temp fix like a band aid on a broken leg? Whats the real cause of the actuator failing just those prongs losing connection?
     
  16. Mar 6, 2013 at 6:50 PM
    #16
    FreidTaco

    FreidTaco boost

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    Somewhat. There actually is NO solder at all on those contact points. The are only making contact by simply touching. That is why this fix works by adding solder. It makes a permanent connection that does not allow vibrations to effect the contact points.
     
  17. Mar 6, 2013 at 7:02 PM
    #17
    FreidTaco

    FreidTaco boost

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    Unfortunately no. That is why several people have claimed that they could see tiny arc marks (myself included) where the pins were trying to make contact but did not have a good enough connection.
     
  18. Mar 6, 2013 at 7:28 PM
    #18
    gearcruncher

    gearcruncher Well-Known Member

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    Almost makes you wonder why manufacturers are placing electrical components in such a harsh environment under the vehicle doesnt it ?
    General motors is by far the most guilty of this placing computer boards on the transfer case , abs controllers on the frame rail etc etc .
    All it takes a quick trip through a shallow pond to find out how well these components are actually sealed .
    I am not saying water impregnation is the cause but I sure miss the days of a manual 4x4 transfer case shifter in a Toyota .:confused:
     
    TRDSport10, Micbt25 and DC92T like this.
  19. Mar 6, 2013 at 7:38 PM
    #19
    undecided

    undecided Well-Known Member

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    Subbed for future use. Thanks! :thumbs up:
     
  20. Apr 2, 2013 at 10:12 PM
    #20
    joesmith

    joesmith Well-Known Member

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    How much gear oil do you loose when pulling the actuator? Can I use regular gasket sealer when I hook it back up? Can I use hand tools only or will I need access to an impact wrench?

    Thanks! :)
     

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