Horn working intermittenly

Does anybody have an idea what to do? I have pull the airbag and horns and tested them.

 

Clockspring....

 

There is a YouTube video on this as well as other thread here on TW on the troubleshooting. I will look for it. Mine was also intermittent and I fixed it by continuously honking the horn at various spots while turning the steering wheel. I think I found an empty parking lot to do this. My fix has lasted over 1 year and cutting.

 

Get one of those bumper stickers that says "Horn broken, watch for finger"

 

Check the related horn fuses. Next, if the horn relay in the engine bay makes a clicking sound when the horn is pressed, that tells you that the relay is not the problem. Lastly, I would check the grounding wire on the horns themselves. They must be grounded to work properly. Remove the grounding wire, ensure that a good connection is being made and re-connect.

 

Clockspring. You're Cruise and steering wheel controls might be next. Simple and cheap repair, not to worry.

 

That's funny, mine started doing it too at about the same time back in October when you started this thread. I just logged on to see how to fix it and found this thread, its gone on long enough, I need my horn. Frigging everyone is so involved with their damn phones, everyday I'll be in the left turn lane and get the green arrow (which only lasts for a short period as you all well know) and inevitably at least once or twice per day, there'll be a car that just sits there because they're looking at their stupid phone. I'm a patient person, but it gets old after awhile.

I have never heard of a clockspring so I'll read up on that. I'll try the easy way too, when its working holding the horn in and turning the wheel. Its probably the clockspring though... instituted by my (im)patient self smacking the wheel daily as 18yo Susie-Q works out her crisis in the damn turn lane.

I'll post back when I figure it out. Thanks for the help guys.

 

The stock horns are grounded through their mounting brackets, so make sure the bolts are tight and clean up any corrosion. The grille area receive a lot of salt spray from traffic.

Clockspring / spiral cable replacement isn't too bad to do: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/clock-spring-spiral-cable-replacement-how-to-video.638094/

 

Hey thanks, I'm reading through it right now, this guy did a great write up: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-gen-clockspring-replacement-how-to.106114/
I was actually hoping what you suggested was in fact the case, but I had a friend monitor the relay yesterday and its not energizing, (it gets its ground through the horn switch)



So its looking like the clock switch or that spiral cable... more to follow. Thanks for checking in.

 

No idea if my horn works or not. It's been a really long time since I hit it. I'll hit it tomorrow morning before I Ieave the house @5:30am. If the lights come on in the house or neighbors, I'll know it works. Lol.

 

Sorry to hear about your troubled horn.....not sure if I would first out take the steering wheel apart.....
Did anyone check the horns and the circuitry + relays first? Just finished working on a BMW with similar problems and had to trace the problem back to the horns....another reason why I drive and own a Tacoma...don't ask.

 

Its a cheap fix.

I wanted to test durability of the oem unit vs ebay special $12 clockspring. I fixed my friends with the oem 2 years ago and mine about the same time. Both oem and $12 ebay clockspring are still holding up, 2 years later.

Steering wheel is held on by 3 bolts. 2 torx on either side of the access panels and a main 19mm. There is nothing difficult about it. Ensure you pry the release buttons on the back of airbag and pop out the connectors. If you have never done this before it might be safe to inform you to disconnect the battery first. Im a dare devil and don't expect anyone to want to play roulette with the airbags like i have been for 10+ years

 

Yes, I did check the relay. Its not activating. I haven't ordered the switch yet, but I think that's the problem.

 

Have you tried the "Panic" button on the FOB? (Just to check upstream of the clockspring)

 

That's interesting, thanks for sharing that. I mean that's a huge difference in price and I wondered about that. I think some other posters here, from what I've read didn't have that good of luck with the cheap ones. I guess its hit and miss. I recently replaced my headlights with an $80 pair that matched the originals (aesthetically) ... and they're junk. The adjustment screws don't work well, and now one of them is fogged up on the inside with moisture. I checked where the bulbs go in, the seals are tight. I'm actually gonna call the company and get new ones, of course they won't send me them unless they get the old ones... so I have to buy a new set first, and then get a credit when they get the old ones back. Whatever. Chinese junk. Get what ya pay for though. Caveat emptor.

 

No!!
That's a great idea. Thanks.

 

O cool. Great schematic. Thanks.
Hey I see you were in 117 turning wrenches on the hummers. Good man!

 

That was a great idea. Basically it saved me from having to check for corrosion, relay reliability, and wiring. Yeah the panic button does in fact activate the horn as advertised.
I'm surfing the threads now to figure out which one to buy. I don't understand why the price range of these things is so great. If OEM is $200+, you'd think even the cheap Chinese junk would be $100 at least. Unless this part is used in tons of other cars we don't know about.

But all that said, its not a hard job right? And I realize its worth spending the bucks when it comes to the airbag, but even at that, if the damn thing fails I'll get an airbag light that'll let me know to change it again. Maybe order 2 of the cheapies? Is there anything else I should consider before buying the $20 AMZN specials?

*oh, and just curious...not being cheap, but has anyone here ever taken one apart to see if you can perhaps re-seat that ribbon cable at each of its ends? Sometimes those cables (at least in TV's, computers, DVD players etc)... the plastic plug connector has a little tab that can be released and you can slide the ribbon out. Might be able to trim off a mm or so and re-seat the ribbon. When you clip it back down it re-pinches the wires.