Stuck High Idle

I had checked the EGR on mine thinking that it may have been part of the issue. Definitely easy to check. Sounds like you're following the same foot steps ove gone through with this

 

Called a machine shop here in town, no dice. So I started looking on the internet and found this company. Looks like a good solution for fixing the TB. Haven'e contacted them yet, but heres the link:
http://www.maxbore.com/

 

Sorry I'm late to the parade, but I just seen this post and I'm not going to read all through them,,, here's a member that had his TB rebuilt by the people you just posted about, he has some impressive before and after pics of the rebuild job. I think he said it was $125 or $150.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...le-body-butterfly-repaired-by-maxbore.479914/

 

Yup I just emailed them and they told me they could rebuild the throttle body without boring it out (Which would save that option for the future if needed). The cost is $150 bucks and that covers the return shipping. I have a spare throttle body at the house so i'm going to get that one rebuilt and slap her on when it gets back! Instructions on their website for shipping are easy and straight forward.

Ill update when I get it back

 

Just a quick update, been talking to George at Maxbore.com (Owner and only employee). Seems like these TB's just get worn out over time, a combination of the aluminum TB and butterfly wearing out. So it looks like boring it and out is the way to go. Heres a picture he sent me that shows normal TB wear that he see's prior to boring them out:

 

Cool, I’m going to the junkyard in the morning to get a spare throttle body and put it on. I’ll send mine off to be refurbished if you have good results!

 

Helmet,

I am questioning the best way to recove the coolant temp sensor from behind the block. Any tips on how to get in there without taking the valve cover off?

Thnks

 

Well I got the fuel injectors on had some issues with reusing crush washers on the fuel filter; I put three crush washers on the left side and fixed that issue. Then I had three ripped o-rings on the injectors; replaces those and added a light coat of dielectric grease.

Started it up and it idled at 1500 then down to 1200 and went down to 700 eventually.

still ran not so well. I heard a couple misfires that sounded odd when hearing them while looking for fuel leaks.

I took some carb cleaner and sprayed near the EGR switch below the manifold, the intake to the idle air control valve ( which I have a new hose on that is a little too thin for comfort) and right under the injector where the diaphragm is for cold starts and got engine revs of varying degrees. So great I’m on to something.

On to the worst news of the day. running low on time and I have a compression tester I need to return. I tested with the spark plugs out; here they are from front to back: 170, 80 , 160 and 140. Put some oil in #2 and it retested at #100.

So odd that it ran fairly well before I ran this throttle bottle spacer for less than five minutes and then maybe 100 miles on this cold air intake.

I’ve had this truck since I was a senior in highschool in 2001; a sad day indeed.

I’ll post some pics and data later.

 

Here is the data file from the run today, compression test results, and the multiple misfire codes that started recently.

 

I redid the compression test tonight with the EFI fuses out, coil packs unplugged and the throttle wide open and I counted five cranks this time; numbers were much better at 156, 160, 166, 152. I am perplexed why the number 2 cylinder was so much lower with the engine warm, EFI fuse in, throttle closed; all of the other cylinders did not register this low during the first test.

 

Are those plugs compatible with our engines? Wondering because I'm so used to using the factory recommended plugs that have round and thick tips. Yours appear to me as pointy and thin. Not sure if that even matters though

 

Hmm ive only gotten that code on individual cylinders if I had a coil pack go bad.
I’ll be interested to hear what come next for ya.
Haven’t gotten the TB back yet, but I will update when I slap the new one back on

 

I’ve been running them for a few years so I would say yes.

 

Just to keep all up to date I’m working on reshimming some valves; made a mistake so at best I’ll have the valve cover on next week and hopefully do my smoke test around the throttle body....

I went out to the junkyard to get a spare throttle body but the trucks was gone in under two weeks...

 

I’m back at square one; finished reshimming the valves. I suspect a leak under the throttle body because if I hit it with break cleaner in that area the engine revs a little. Maybe it’s the reused IAC gasket.....

 

Have you got your throttle body back yet?

 

Found an issue; cracked exhaust header. I’ve replaced this one once already. Anybody else have this issue? Any manifolds or headers you guys recommend?

 

Anybody had any luck sealing it from the outside as a temporary fix? I have some stripped threads in the head I am pretty sure and I’d like to not tackle that just yet. When I replaced this manifold before it was cracked clear in half and it did not run half as bad as it does now.

 

I measured the resistance on my old IAC from the middle connector to each side and each measured 21 ohms so I feel that the old one was good electrically.

I then hooked everything back up and proceeded to test for vacuum leaks using a propane bottle. I think I got a little rpm change right under the IAC; I think I got better results using carb cleaner to find the leak. It was hard to tell much with the engine idling so poorly.

here is a link to the engine running in open loop for a few seconds.

https://youtu.be/Dl3Hv2H7BFU

Here is a strange noise coming from the charcoal canister that I noticed after I shut it off.
https://youtu.be/04STGRGfHik

here is a picture of the codes it throws and the operating data.

ive got plugs and wires and an IAC gasket coming.