DIY: Full Flush for Automatic Transmission

I installed the OPL (all aluminum) and burped the radiator today. fitment wasn't perfect so it took a bit longer than I expected. Had to mount with washer-spacers to shim it to prevent a metal to metal mounting.

I have 4 quarts of WS fluid, so far I've drained all that came out the drain plug, including what I got from the radiator & tow package cooler.
got the funnel and 1/2" tubing ready for tomorrow...


But, more silly questions...
Tomorrow...
I'm gonna add the 4 quarts, and then cycle the trans shifter between P, R, D, 4, 3, 2, L, for a while... to ensure the new transmission portion of the radiator & the cooler get fully, full...
*Anyone have a clue how long that should take, to completely cycle the WS fluid?
*And, is there anything else I should think of?

I'm gonna practice getting into the test mode. I'd hate to have to wait to send out the scan-gauge to update it to version-4...
FWIW, I have about 263,000mi on it.

 

Going into the gears below D won’t do anything. When you place it into D it’s gonna shift to first and stay there. It won’t shift into the higher gears unless you drive it and let it shift. If it’s on a lift you could do that I guess, but you don’t need to. Just cycle between R N and D a few times and you’ll be fine.


Post up some pics of the new pan if you get a chance.

https://yourcovers.com/transpan_11112.php

 

Is there something wrong with it?
I don't know of any reason to replace a radiator simply because of age.

 

How much did you drain out of the pan and how much came out of the radiator and trans cooler? You should've got 3 quarts out of the pan COLD. If you got more or less, than you'll have to do the Temp Check and check your fluid level after you're done.

I didn't do the temp check because I got exactly 3 quarts out of the pan cold which tells me it had the correct amount in the system from factory (I have no leaks either). If you change the fluid while it's warm or hot, that changes everything because the system "absorbs" the fluid (other people call it "fluid expansion") when warm so what drains out at the pan will be more or less depending on temperature. That's why it's best to change your fluid cold. It's much more accurate. If you're not sure exactly how much came out, then do the temp check.

 

Because you know.....mods!

 

as an alternative to send out the scan gauge you could buy one of these scanners and use the OBD Fusion app on ur phone and enter the PID to show the pan temp, that’s what I did:

OBD scanner:

GXG-1987 WiFi Wireless OBD-II Mini OBD2 Auto Car Diagnostic Scanner Tool Adapter Reader Scan Code Tester for iPhone 6S 5 iPad4 iPod mini iOS PC Windows, Android Device https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B3K2X4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_recDEbFR38DA4

OBD Fusion App for both iPhone and Android:

https://www.obdsoftware.net/software/obdfusion

Here are the instructions for the PID for pan temp sensor for OBD Fusion:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-get-transmission-temps-on-fusion-app-for-ios.359279/

 

Radiators have no electronics and no moving parts. The only reason to replace them is based on age.

 

I'd say failure but ok.

 

With no moving parts, failure can only be related to age

 

Not a radiator expert here, but if it's not damaged or leaking and your truck isn't overheating, I would keep it.

 

Gonna have to open the hood....

 

BTW, I did change the radiator because it was running a bit hotter (sadly i'm anal about those things, thermostat opens at 182* and its been running up to 193*, according to scangauge FWT.)
It was still within spec, but I couldn't help myself?
15yrs ago it would steadily run 182-184* middle of summer...

getting into test mode this morning was a bit trying...
because I actually shifted between D,N,& R, right after adding the 4 new WS quarts, to mix it all up.
apparently it heated the trans more than I thought?
then, I went into test mode...
in mode, it actually illuminated the AT,TEMP immediately... no waiting?
did a bit more research and I think I found that the test mode temp to be just under 100*. it was already 80* outside...
let it rest for an hour or so, and tried again...
that time I only saw, for a second or so of no... AT,TEMP...
didn't trust it, so I shut it off and waited till after dinner...
went into test, nicely... AT,TEMP flickered after a short while and then lit up solid...
removed the 5mm overflow plug, until a trickle and WALLA...
torqued it in and test drive...
my BUTT dyno says it's way smoother shifting.
shoulda done it sooner...

 

Question for @gearcruncher - since I'm aware of your recommendation of Lubeguard products, I bought this lubeguard platinum;

$13 Lubegard 61910 Highly Friction Modified ATF Supplement, 10 oz.

https://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-61910-Friction-Modified-Supplement/dp/B0002KKTTU/ref=sr_1_3?crid=V4S8JZQGDDYU&dchild=1&keywords=lubeguard+platinum&qid=1586197442&sprefix=lubeguard%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-3 . I then bought this lubeguard instant shudder fix too;

$8 Lubegard 19610 Instant Shudder Fix

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JMLQU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .I have not added either yet. Now that I have both and have read the labels, it seems that the lubeguard platinum has shudder fix in it. Can/should I add both into my trans? Fyi, I've done a full flush already and am happy and have smoother shifting, but still have some of what I think is the 45mph lockup shudder.

 

I have never used the shudder fix but members here at Tacoma World have used it with great results . Throw both of them in !!

With this being said .....keep your fluid super clean

 

Back from the dead! I'm happy to see this thread is still alive, kicking and serving Tacoma owners well. The 06 Taco this was performed on still belongs to me and is running like the day I posted this thread, despite it having only 89k miles now. I bought a VW TDI not long after this was posted for commuting and more recently a Macan for getting around comfortably, so the Tacoma has been asleep in the garage except for truck duties. Just picked up a boat that will be getting towed around and figured it wise to add a real Trans cooler and oh yeah, my fluid hasn't been flushed in a long time (10 years)...happy to be using my own DYI after all this time because I honestly forgot how to do it. I've read back a dozen pages or so and this still seems to be helping people out, plus the photos still actually work which is great. Nothing else to add, but be safe!

All the best,
ML

 

Yep. Your post has definitely helped me!!

Thanks

 

Oddly, when I removed the drain plug, I was only able to get out 1 quart. I proceeded to start the engine shift gears and then shut off the engine. A minute later another quart drained. I repeated the engine start, gear cycle 2 more times getting out a total of 4 quarts. This was the first time I had touched the transmission after 115K. The fluid was pretty dark so I wonder if I waited too long and it's plugged up someplace. I don't tow with this vehicle. Has anyone else experienced only seeing one quart drain? The truck is a 2012 V6 TRD Sport.

 

It sounds like you removed the check plug and not the drain plug. With the vehicle off, it is normal for about 1 quart of fluid to come out of the check plug.

 

My truck is a 3rd Gen, 2017 TRD OFFROAD 4X4 w/tow package

As far as I can tell this is the transmission cooler:



As I understand it, the concept of the this thread is to catch the fluid expelled from the radiator (in the case of a truck equipped with a tow package, the transmission cooler) as new fluid is put into the transmission. So, if I disconnect the cooler outlet hose from the diagram, can I expect the same results? Also, is there any concern of causing issues by introducing air into the line?

@mountain lion

 

Pretty much what I did. I used the pump sprayer method as well.

My pic will look different because I have an additional cooler, but the concept is the same. This way flushed the coolers & radiator passages as well. No prob will air, just don't let the trans pump run dry.