3" and 35s

How much were the wheels ?

 

you mentioned in your other post you have SPC UCAs, what are your alignment specs? You may need them to readjust I believe it’s caster to get as high as they can and it should put the wheel more forward in the wheelwell. After lift I still rubbed after CMC because the tire shop tried to match stock specs. I recently went to an actual alignment shop and now I only rub a small spot of plastic in front at full tilt over some curbs. 34” tire and 2.5” lift for me but I feel like the alignment specs still apply. Good luck!

 

I believe you can move the ball joint position on the SPC arms to get the tire just a little more forward. Then, gently massage the area with a 4-6lb sledge. Tire shouldn't rub after an alignment!

 

Here's my alignment specs...is "Actual" what it's at post-alignment?
I took it to 4Wheel Parts...just assumed they knew what to do since I had the 35s on.

And yeah I have the SPC UCAs

 

Oh my gosh that's dope.

 

I'm confused, and sorry if I'm just a noob and not understanding this.

The SPC instructions say to have the flat side of the ball joint facing towards the front of the truck for +4.0 caster, but AFAICT the wheel is further forward when it's facing towards the rear. And that's the way I had them positioned when I brought it in for the alignment.

So then why was my caster so low after the alignment? Am I missing something here?



If anyone can explain this to me I'd really appreciate it, thanks!

 

Rotating the SPC to +4 moves the ball joint to the rear changing the angle, it doesnt move the wheel forward.

You probably dont need +4 Caster from the SPC since you can get quite a bit of caster from the lower cams. Most people are in the C or D positions.

Your lower cam bolts should be pushed all the way forward to maximize caster and wheel spacing, then the SPC should be adjusted to change the angle to also increase caster.

I would have positioned them at D before bringing it in.

 

Is this possible to tell from the alignment specs? I had them set at Position G when they did the alignment...

 

No, you would have to physically inspect the cam bolt positions.

G provides no caster improvement which is probably why it registered so low.

 

So I should set it to Position D, and tell 4Wheel Parts to move the lower cam bolt as far forward as possible and adjust the ball joint from there if necessary?

 

That looks really good. I don’t see too many with 35s on the stock wheels. I had mine like that for a while and I loved it.

 

Thats what I would do.

Check out my thread here and scroll down to the alignment section, there is a link to page 7 and post #138 provided by Tetten.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/intro-to-fitting-35s-3-lifts.594309/

 

Haha wow...that post is gold. Wish I would've read it sooner but thanks for sending me to it.

 

Thanks! What’re you rocking now??

 

Black Rhino Arsenal:

 

Oh, yeah. It was actually one of your posts on Instagram about the poor mans beadlock that helped me pull the trigger!

 

Haha, dope! Glad I can help people make questionable decisions with me!

 

Looking at my cam bolts, how can I tell if the rear castor cam is pushed all the way out? What position should the tab be in?

Here's my driver's side, photo is of the rear cam bolt looking forward:

 

If anyone's looking, I have a set of 5 Toyo Open Country MT's in 315/70/17 for sale. 7,000 miles on them, so basically new. Located in San Diego, CA.

 

Whatcha gettin??