Turbo BS Thread

Only if you're setting up timing.

 

Really have no clue about this stuff. Would I be better off going with a different ecu?

 

If you had a Haltech Elite, I could help you in a flash. That is an expensive endeavor.

A tuner should be able to get you up running much cheaper.

 

Having trouble locating one that's willing to work on it

 

Definitely try giving AEM a call when you can or they are open.

What city/State are you in?

 

They wernt much help last year as this ecu part number was for a honda that was plug and played by the now defunct dezod to work in the 1grfe. Dezod told me they lost all their files in a hurricane and couldn't be of any help with a base tune
Manchester iowa

 

Damn.

No good AEM authorized tuners around you?

 

I feel like an idiot. My apologies. Slipped my mind completely. This is what you need to do.

@JustDSM can just tune your OEM ecu. Plain and simple. Using the HP Tuners.

Trash or sell the AEM.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/hp-tuners-for-2005-2015.600793/page-324

 

He'll be cheaper than any tuner out there, and already has some base tunes that may help get yours going more easily.

Any HP Tuner could also do the same.

 

Hey! Any info on a turbo kit for second gen 2.4l 4cyl engine?

 

Quite a bit in here.

 

What are the latest updates???

 

Pulled aem ecu this morning back to stock ECU and stock injectors. Still same problem at idle bank 1 isnt firing at all. The coils are firing. Multiple misfire codes. Tried swapping cam sensor. Crank sensor is new its reading rpms. Kinda getting stumped where to check next why lost bank 1. Does cam crank sync have to be done on the stock ecu?

 

No. With the stock ecu, it is not necessary.

Did you cut and splice anything into the oem harness, while installing the AEM?

Did you mess with any of the engine bay wiring harness?

By some odd chance, did you mix up the coil pack wires on the driver side?

Any little things that you can think of?

 

The crank sensor wire down towards connector got smashed dropping other engine in and rewired it with crimp and solder connectors. Then wrapped up nice though theres an extension to it now that doesn't have the jacketing for a few inches. Rpms still seem to read right and no crank sensor codes

 

Well looks like that potential problem was fixed.

 

Can run it at 3k rpm and start pulling coils off bank one and makes no difference. Referring to passenger side as bank one. Basically think its not firing the injectors or at the right time and only seems to be running off bank 2

 

Replaced main timing chain and tensioners and pretty sure got all that back on right too.

 

You may have to double check your timing.

Do you have any tool to be able to listen and see if the passenger bank injectors are firing?

Even a spare injector that you could plug into the harness and see if it activates, as the engine runs?

Can you do a compression test on bank one, and report back?