Nimble9's Secondhand Parts Build

Big baller kit $$$$...there's cheaper options IMO.

 

where? DMZ is like $250

 

https://bigcountrycustoms.com/product/second-gen-toy-taco-r-frame-plates/

When they have sales, they offer 20% off and free shipping. When I got them, it cost me 100 freedom dollars delivered to my door.

 

well thank you! Im saving this

 

Ruffstuff has DOM tubing for the crossbracing. I think the plates and DOM cost me $160 shipped to my door.

 

Thats some work to do, when I cant take my bed off. Too much crap on there.

 

Ditto. Not looking forward to having to do it. Parts have been sitting in my garage for almost a year and a half. Granted, the last year, personal wise, has been a clusterfuck. Hoping to get it done soon.

 

The cheapest option for frame boxing is to buy some 1/8th steel, some extra cuttoff wheels from Benchmark Abrasives, and save some Amazon boxes to make templates.

Just cut, fit, and weld in sections yourself. Unless you are taking the bed off, I'm pretty sure this is also by far the easiest option too, since you can work with smaller lengths of plating.

 

DOM from ruffstuff is roughly 2x the cost plus shipping of buying it from a local steel supplier. Although if you go that route you have to buy it in 20 ft increments, so find a friend to share the buy with.

 

but there's nothing like buying something, and then modding it to fit what you have. Ill be doing that this weekend.

 

This is true. You get all the fun of shaping something to fit from steel plate, and the cost of buying a pre-made part

 

That's what I am thinking about doing. Chopping the plates into 3 sections. That should be easier than removing my bed, topper and wiring. The latter would take half a day. By that time, the frame could be plated and painted.

Roger. The unfortunate thing where I am locally, everyone tries to get one over on you; no matter what it is. At the time I bought the DOM, I had just moved, was married and didn't have anyone wanting to do the plating and cross bracing. It was the easier alternative.

 

I wonder why no one just makes a 3 piece kit that you could ship. Heck, maybe I'll add it to the Squareone Creations product line one day

 

Don't know. Easier to ship and install. The DMZ kit is nice but I with it didn't come with all the extra bits for bracing. They wouldn't sell it to me without those.

 

well I'll most likely just make a few others whenever I get to boxing the rear. But first things first:

Rear shock setup. What to do?????

• wait for a deal on some used shocks (for a relocate)
• FOA Custom Shocks (for a relocate)
  • 
• • 

Another option: 12" 5125s - https://www.offroaddesign.com/bilstein-5125-shock-12-travel.html

 

Well after wandering into a deep hole that is replacing the Rack and Pinion (thread link), I think i'm going to go B110s for another few years (or https://www.offroaddesign.com/bilstein-5125-shock-12-travel.html) since I've put off replacing my rack and pinion for about 2 years.

@loosnut suggested lucas PS stop leak a long time ago, and I've used at least 2 full bottles and a little bit of a 3rd, and that stuff really works. No more leak. However I already have Energy Suspension Rack bushings waiting to go and I'm replacing the Intermediate shaft (soon) I really should fix this issue

Parts:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2006,tacoma,4.0l+v6,1432865,steering,rack+and+pinion,7388

Now to decide between reman and a 3 year warranty, or new with a lifetime ($150 difference)

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2006,tacoma,4.0l+v6,1432865,steering,tie+rod+end,7428

I also already have spare moog inner and outer Tie Rods, but it's nice to have new spares queued.

@Arcticelf this might be the time to make a trip for some help lol

@EatSleepTacos what all did you buy extra? New bolts, and one of the lines?

 

I know it's just a little more money, but I highly recommend OEM. When I bought my truck, I had to replace the R&P to pass inspection. Used an A1 cardone reman, and it lasted a year before the seals blew out. Got them to warranty it and send me another one. That one also lasted a year. They said "No mas!" and didn't warranty it again. Instead they gave me a full refund. I then purchased OEM. Think of it this way, you've milked almost 15 years out of your OEM rack. That's a pretty great bang for your buck.

https://parts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-gear-assembly-4425004030?c=bD0xJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM=


It comes with tie rods, you just need tie rod ends. If you've never unbolted your rack, the drivers side one is a pita to get out. I recommend cutting it out and replacing it upside down.

Bolt

https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-gear-assembly-mount-bolt-90119a0135

Nut

https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-gear-assembly-nut-90178a0041



One hose that feeds into the rack is a rubber hose. This one didn't cause me any issues. The OTHER one is a hard line. This one was rusted, so I had to fight to get it out. OEM only sells them as a pair but NAPA had just the one line, for about $80.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PSK76733?partTypeName=Power+Steering+Hose&keywordInput=steering+hose

 

Come on down.

I recommend the OEM rack too, I had exactly the same experience with re-manufactured.

I'd replace both PS lines, and consider doing the pump, while you have it all out. When I did my tundra rack re-build I did the PS pump too, and the lines.

The rack bolts can be replaced with 1/2" grade 8, I think 5 or 6 inches long. No reason to use toyota bolts.

 

You will enjoy your life allot more with real shocks on the back.

 

who pays for shipping anymore? Order from Headstrong. The B110s are ok. They were kinda stiff when I had them. Then I upgraded to King resi with clickers, and no more stiffness