2000 4wd ex-cab

It crossed my mind to take the cover somewhere while I had it off. Do you recall what they charged for the repair? Did you remove the cover and take it to them?

I have had an eye out for a brown console.

 

I took the entire seat, they charged $50

 

Gotcha. Thanks for response. IMO, that's reasonable considering they had to pull the cover.

 

I've never hung a boat out of the back of my truck before but now I understand. Super convenient. Lake Guntersville this morning.

 

Nice!

What process/products did you use to paint your stock wheels?

And, the seats doing okay for your back?

 

Thanks. Wheels have held up exceptionally well over the past 3 years. Here's the refresh details(from page 1):
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/graphite-wheels-on-my-sunfire-red-pearl.491368/

Not sure about the seats. I fully expected them to be even better on my back than the stock seats but I have not noticed reduced back discomfort on extended trips. They sure look nicer though. I'm certain that I can add the lumbar parts though if I come across a ratted out lumbar seat to steal parts from.

 

Bucks Pocket State Park is only 23 miles from us. We're going to go check it out the new trail this morning.

 

I guess depending on how the roads are going to where you are heading, I would stick a sheet of plywood behind the cab to protect you back window, unless you have it tied down real good. I had a buddy that lost his back windo in an older 2wd Toyota pickup a few years ago. Have fun out thre

 

That's why I back it in. The back tires are up against the front of the bed. Works great.

 

We had a nice time at the new 6 mile ORV trail at Bucks Pocket State Park Alabama. It wasn't near as crowded as I thought for being the 1st Sat open(trail). For $5/ATV, we'll definitely go back again. Spent 3 hours on the trail but stopped several times to visit and enjoy the scenery.

 

Did some wheeling on some family land that's being logged. 1st and 2nd leafs are original, 3rd and 4th are from an old Dakota and seem to work well.

 

I finally blew a CV boot. A quick search shows that the Napa shafts seem to be a quick, cheap and decent fix. But I have decided to do a CVJ replacement or swap the boots myself. If the originals lasted 20 years and 334K miles, then that's what I want to go back with.

 

I decided to replace boots with OEM myself. Bought two kits that each include inner and outer from partznet for $95 delivered. Will be here next week.

Part number 04438-04021. Hopefully it will come with grease and everything.
https://parts.conicellitoyotaofconshohocken.com/oem-parts/toyota-boot-kit-0443804021

 

My driver side inner boot ripped, so I'll need to do mine too. Curious to see how your replacement goes!

 

I'll post how it goes. Pulling the shaft doesn't look too bad. Replacing the boots is just a few more proceedures.... but messy ones.

 

This kit has everything. Black grease is outer and brown grease is inner.

I pretty much followed timmythetoolman vid. However, I removed the caliper and rotor and then the (4) lower ball joint bolts instead of using a puller on the tie rod and LBJ castle nut. I used bailing wire to tie the caliper and then the spindle up out of the way. I did not do the boot stretch mod that they show in his vid(dont really understand what it accomplishes). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcCT4UgFUTw&t=3091s


I changed inner and outer boots and put it all back together.

You really need a good boot clamp plier like these Lisle. These work good for clamping the bands.


Before refilling the front diff, I inspected the driver side boots and discovered the inner is on the verge of failure so I'm about to dive into it.


This info was very helpful.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjADegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw1tcU004vQjvofRmoBcIf1e

 

Decent external snap ring pliers are also essential tools for this job in order to get the clip that hold the tri-bearing off.

front diff fill plug 29 ft/lbs
front diff drain plug 48 ft/lbs
CV drive shaft lock nut 174 ft/lbs
LBJ bolts (4) 59 ft/lbs
Strut Lower Bolt 101 ft lbs
wheel lug nuts 85 ft/lbs

 

I got these for when I did mine and they do a great job with the snap rings. A few other people recommended it on the forums and they've come in handy many times.

$30 Proto J250G Proto 9" Lock Ring Horseshoe Washer Pliers

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Prot...=proto+snap+ring+pliers&qid=1595631281&sr=8-6

Has a little dimple in each side that helps the ring from sliding off the pliers too which makes it even easier.

 

Ian, I bet those work great for the heavy duty clips. The other thing that was really tough was the boot band that didnt have the crimp.


It was VERY hard to get the band to the final hooks. I ended up using 1/2" ratchets(for extra leverage) with the Lisle tool to get them together. I wonder why Toyota used that style band on the one boot and the crimp style band on the other 3 bands.


Here's a pic that shows the spindle and brake caliper wires up out of the way. I had to remove the lower shock bolt to get the shock out of the way to get the CV out.


Front wheel bearings felt great btw.