TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Not sure if your AT or MT but 4.56 w/ AT was a sweet spot

 

You should be able to get it closer to 18-2000. You can get Thee master gear kit for $1k maybe $1109. It’s not 12-1400 in labor

 

That’s what I did up front. $2900 for parts and front Harrop. Installed myself as they were completes from ecgs

 

How hard was the front install.. I ordered a set of 4.56 from ECGS and am dreading the front install... (complete diffs from ECGS btw)

 

Don't take my idea.

 

It’s not bad.

Here’s a write up for the rear.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...d-installation-of-e-locker-3rd-member.193828/

As for the front, I think the biggest pain is popping the axles out. Also, don’t forget to swap the gear out of the ADD section into your new front diff or you won’t have 4wd

 

Mine was about $1k in labor.

 

lol.. experience talking..? I feel like I have heard its a real pain in the ass getting the torx out of the front out?

 

So I got all the stuff to put the earlier URD headers on my 2015. Contemplating paying my mechanic buddy to put them on because of the horror stories. Those that have done the deed, would you do it again or just pay someone? For reference, I was able to install the blower in about a day in a half in my garage.

 

Yeah and right before a trip too lol. The torc suck, but not too bad. I guess it depends how much corrosion yours may have. That could make things much worse

 

I am lining up to do the same, but on my 2008 so a bit easier. While I am in there, since I need to separate the steering shaft I will be taking out the rack and installing the poly bushings, you may want to if you have not done that yet. I also picked up the ARP hardware from the LS header kit.

 

I was looking into new headers and new rack and pinion my self. My headers are over 10 years old. Dare I get the URD ones. It seems they are the only ones on the market where the welds are outside the flange. All headers now have the welds on the inside. CVJ axles in Denver sells refurbished OEM Toyota cv joints and rack and pinions. They want your cores in the process. I’m hoping a new refurbished rack and pinion is going to make my truck feel brand new again.

 

I would do it again over paying for it. I would just allot myself more time. Being on a tight timeline sucked.

 

I think the URD headers are the best option by far if you do not need cats. Even down to using the 304SS verse most are 409SS. I plan on sourcing from CVJ for rebuilt CVs. Assuming they are still in operation.
I fear that many of our sources are gonna dry up in the coming months...

 

That’s what I figured....anyone know where to get the correct T connector and the cap? I don't even know what the proper name of that thing is or the size.

 

I have DT shorties with high flow cats. It’s good for now but eventually I’d like to go catless with URD. I didn’t do it initially because I didn’t want to mess with o2 sims. When ever I go to HP I’ll definitely erase the ability for the truck to read the front o2 sensors (provided I can do that). At that point long tubes will definitely go in .

 

Just go to an autozone or any auto parts store. I asked to take a couple packages of T’s out to my truck so I could see what size I needed based on my hose. The rubber caps also come in a package with various sizes for just a couple bucks. Just buy the package and use the one you need

 

In my opinion, long tubes are the only way to go. If you leave the factory hardware in the system, they will negate almost every gain you get by replacing the manifolds. Some of this talk about spending big bucks to make custom pipes with factory cats sounds like a good way to squander some $. There are real benefits to be had by scraping the extra hardware

 

I would have just paid someone. Even on a lift and doing it while the transmission was out it still sucked and took forever.

 

Looks like it may be time for an intercooler lid gasket