TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Which CSF did you add? i saw a lot of people added

$194 Derale 52506 25 Row Core Stacked Plate Cooler Kit , Black

Derale 52506. Adding the CSF would be nice since I have the CSF radiator. prob doesnt matter but might get some better support on it. Did you replace the stock one or add in addition? I saw a few setups where people added additional instead of replace.

Def I need to add the valve body job. @12TRDTacoma when I get time if your still around ill let you know. I may try to do it myself or have my brother help since if I head down there and he has room we can do it on a lift at his shop.

Valve body reduce slippage and heat and adding a bigger cooler sound like a no brainer.

 

Last summer I replaced the factory cooler with the setup in this thread:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/my-trans-a-cooler-with-a-fan-install.352071/

It helped, but pretty minimally. I still would get up to 220-240 when towing on steep inclines.

This summer I pulled that setup, bypassed the main radiator and added the CSF boss universal oil cooler:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MI5u7g3OjA6gIVwsDACh14JQyaEAQYAiABEgI_e_D_BwE

I used this housing: https://www.mishimoto.com/mishimoto-in-line-thermostat.html with a 160 degree thermostat. and plumbed into the transmission lines below the main radiator.

The CSF setup made a huge difference. Max temp I have seen at the pan is 203 (TC was about 217) and that was after towing our 4000 lb trailer up a pretty steep dirt road in 90 degree weather. Its a pretty consistent uphill grade for about 30 minutes and its winding so you don't get much speed reducing air flow over the radiators. Towing on the highway or crawling in 4 lo up steep roads I have never been over 180 at the pan or tc.

 

nice! id love to hear more about this. What was the reason for bypassing the main radiator? I do have the 160 degree thermostat but was hearing some debate if it was needed or not and held off from installing it.

 

You never wait 100,000 miles to change tranny fluid. At most, 60K is reasonable and even then I feel that that is pushing it. Being that you have never checked the level in the thing, I would start there because it is known that 2nd gens had questionable QA factory regarding certain things, this is especially true in the tranny fluid level. This amplified further in the later gen 2nd gens. I got lucky as mine was always level when I did my first full power flush.

That looks trick, especially the CSF mini rad! We want more info Scott. Pictures please of every individual component, especially that t stay you plumbed in!

Apparently the setup we have in place was designed to keep the transmission at proper temperature while hauling the weight of the truck itself. We have tampered with that the moment we installed the supercharger. I never gave much thought to this actually, but it makes sense now. If you tow or do heavy wheeling like I used to in 4lo, that dinky littler cooler we have isnt going to do much of luck of good apparently. I have never seen my light trigger on but my fluid sure was not very happy come 60K, I can tell you that much.

I'm thinking the reason for bypassing the main rad is so he can eliminate the potential for the pink milkshake factor. Tht was an issue that plagued the poorly built mid to later 2000 Nissan trucks and SUVs but that is not an issue for us. We have well built radiators, being that you have the CSF radiator now I don't think you will EVER run into that issue and I wouldn't worry too much about bypassing the main radiator cooler line plumbing. If it makes you sleep better at night though..

Me when I do mine, I'm going to replace just the cooler and leave the online routing in place. Oil is affected greatly in lowering temperature when it comes into contact with an external "water" source ie our coolant. So..

 

ok thats good to know that I was not aware of that. Its due for a change then. Time to do that Valve Body job. Maybe thats not helping my mpg too.

Yes @zscott need more info!

 

Makes sense. If need could always pull it and reroute it and bypass the rad. But a few things I need to add to my list. 1. change trans temp 2. Valve body 3. Upgraded Oil cooler. Thoughts on the 160 mishi as well? I do have it I just did not swap it in.

 

I have had no issues running the Mishi t stat for the time I have had it. I still see 180-200* temps on particularly hot days when running the AC. It also has not caused me any issues with oil frothing up when I have went to change my oil as well. I see no particular negatives in running it, others may see it differently, but these are my real world results thus far.

 

A 160* is not recommended for cold climates. Longer to get everything up to temp. You Cali boys need not worry. I believe the OV Tune guy does not recommend such. What is the benefit of running the 160*? Seems like a risk of not getting all the heat spread across the block uniformly can result in HG issues and such if you boost too soon.

 

I've never had an issue boosting or giving any vehicle engine the beans prior to warming up and I've given all of my vehicles HELL when I drove/ drive them. The immediate benefit of lower coolant temperatures is the ability to provide more timing resulting in more power.

Agreed on climate. In California environments a lower temp t stat is not a big deal. Colder environments (ie places that snow or get cold enough where it could snow) I probably wouldn't do it.

 

Generally the tune won’t allow full power until the coolant is up to temp. So even if you romp on it, it pulls timing.

 

Just a Flush or Flush and filter?

 

Many cars restrict themselves while cold. Limit RPMs or other methods as mentioned above. Just does not seem like a good idea to stress components until the have equilibrium. And the coolant temp has a gradient from the block temp and such.

 

Just a flush. The filter is actually a strainer and does not require replacement. Even Toyota indicates such.

I still run them like I stole 'em cold.

 

I just know not having an engine warm up to appropriate temps will limit its performance....

 

My LS2 and my 1GR say differently.

 

Do you have data on that besides Butt-Dyno? How do you know it was not restricted/ limited? Not wanting to give readers the wrong impression. I'm sure it gets up and go's but probably does not allow full power, right? I think we are on the same page effectively. High load on cold engine is not good. ECU helps prevent that. Therefore you are benefiting from such algorithms.

 

There shouldn't be any computer restrictions in open loop or closed loop fueling despite low temperature that I know of. The only restriction is your right foot. All this talk of thermal expansion below operating temperature is a bunch of hooie as far as I'm concerned. In theory the colder your temperature is the more timing you should be able to add. Open loop fueling runs off of the MAF and ECT while adding extra fuel to keep the engine running and Closed Loop fueling utilizes oxygen sensor control and requires less fuel to maintain the engine running since the combustion chamber is now up to a better temperature to burn the fuel so less is required. That being said, @JustDSM may have further insight on this if there is a discrepancy with what I am saying.

 

This is my experience too. Both my GT500 and C7Z permit higher revs and provide more power once they reach "appropriate" temps.

I know the Shelby requires at least 170 degrees for "full power." I'm pretty sure the Vette is the same.

Is it possible this comes down to how we each define "appropriate" and "cold" temps, or do you really rev all the way to redline on ambient temp engines?

 

I really rev my engines to the moon on a little higher than ambient temps. By the time I am 2 or 3 blocks away from the house it's no holds barred so depending how I feel that day I may very well rev the piss out of my engine just because.

 

Although tolerances are much tighter than vehicles were back in the 70s, there is still the existence of physics playing its part. It just seems like common knowledge to me that any engine will benefit by warming up. I cringe every time I hear my co-worker hammer his Coyote to 65 after less than a block and 10 seconds of run time.
We need some more info on this, I'm open to correction.