Inverter In-Cab 120VAC

Posting a new thread as all the old ones seem to have died....

I'm doing the 110VAC in-cab hack. I have two questions:

1. Which wires? Other threads indicate the blue and white wires on the left front (front face of inverter, port vehicle side) connector, This would be connector positions 5 and 11. However, these are really thin wires, like maybe 20AWG. Are they the same wires that are feeding the outlet in the bed? That seems like a fairly long distance to run 20AWG wires carrying ~4A @ 120V.

There is another connector on the inverter (front face, starboard side) with only one blue and one white/ black stripe wire, both significantly heavier gauge. What is that?

2. Is anyone still making the in-line harness that KTJO offered a while back? It seems like she's no longer a member of the forum. Although I'm perfectly capable of cutting and soldering, I'd rather do it with a harness.

Here's her original thread:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-cab-120vac-400w-anytime-power-outlet.622505/

 

She got a permanent vacation from TW but she has her own website.

 

If you're asking if you need the harness, you dont. It's a $20 mod with the AC oulet. And yes, thin wires, 400w is really not that much.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-ac-outlet-in-cab-and-400w-anytime.505598/

 

I know I don't *NEED* the harness. I am perfectly capable of soldering. (I'm 61 years old, so I consider it one of those "lost" skills..... ) I just like the install to be "clean".

 

I'm a daredevil, I just twisted the wires together and used electrical tape. Works perfect.

BTW, toyota corp loves electrical tape, it's all over your truck.

 

Order at your own risk. Not much money, so not catastrophic if seller is a no-show.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/ktjo-4x4-auto-fold-mirror-harness-install.68675/#post-1784764

 

Power from the Inverter fuse (80A) via the relay and the Inverter Ground.

 

Get parts and assemble it yourself...

 

@caribe makaira, I thought about it. I even Googled the parts. But my Google-fu wasn't up to it. So right before you replied, I found KTJO's website and ordered it from her. Took a while to get here (thanks, USPS), but I got it yesterday and installed it today. If I had problems, I figured I'd reply back asking you where I could get the parts.

Anyway, all's well that ends well!

 

No pics of install?

 

Specific to me below. The thread www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-gen-ac-outlet-in-cab-and-400w-anytime.505598 is pretty spot-on for everything else. I was prepared for more of a battle getting the emergency brake boot over the handle, but it went pretty easy. The other part that threw me was I took it apart a couple of weeks ago and put it back together today, so of course I forgot to re-connect the connector that powers the USB ports in the center console and had to take it apart again.

 

Nice! I’ve got my parts waiting for me to get going. Planning on dual 12 / 120v plugs at rear of each front seat on molle panels. Not sure yet how it will look. Wanted to avoid hacking up the console.

so what does the 400/100 switch do with ktjo’s harness installed? Ideally for me it’d be a master on/off for the inverter but I think it auto resets with ignition off right now? So we would need a replacement physical switch or something to give the driver total control like the window lockout switch?

 

The 400/100 switch works as designed, EXCEPT that it does not down-switch automatically to 100W when the vehicle is in motion. With vehicle off, the inverter is off, as it should be, as it's a significant draw on the battery otherwise.

 

Wow, guess she is saving on those short wires. That is a very short assembly, no wiggle room.

 

The ktjo kit is all plug and play while the pictures above look a little different. Here is my setup so far. I removed the main harness tape as it was a little too sloppy for my OCD, gonna re-wrap that part right now.

Have to decide if I want to use the bezel and mount to console (don’t love that plan) or go under seat on each side and ditch the bezel plan. The bezel is nicer than I thought it would be.

 

Could you PM me her website?

 

https://www.ktjo4x4.com/

This is how I did it using the harness from the website. It took me 30 minutes with the harness and some butt connections and zip ties.

 

OK, I checked everything out and I've come to the conclusion that the bezel mount makes a massive amount of sense even though it means cutting the back of the center console.

It looks like ktjo's main thread for this is locked up, as noted previously, not sure anyone will see posts in here, still, I will add my thoughts b/c why not.

Some thoughts first:

1. The ring terminal for the red ground for the harness did not fit the primary ground bolt b/c the ring is too small but I too opted for the inverter mounting nut on the side, actually makes it look like just the right amount of slack that way.
2. It appears 42mm from the top of the top vent to the bottom of the bezel is the magic number, but I'm not sure if that's to the inside of the bezel or the outside. I'm assuming outside?
3. Also as noted, the back of the console separates from the main body which I assume makes cutting it much easier.
4. I'm thinking it'd be best to build a template, trace, and then cut. First testing the template for fitment with the bezel. I'll try that out b/c I'm scared of cutting too much or in the wrong spot.

Some observations:
1. My tester shows as "open ground" and I'm not sure if that's completely expected for an inverter or something unexpected. I'll try it out in the factory plug in the bed and see.

Questions:
1. For tapping usb's, I'm thinking I'll try to connect to the factory plug with male spade lugs and make my own replacement harness for both in-cubby and rear-of-cubby usb power. Having some difficulty extracting the factory 12v outlet though. Would prefer to replace it with usb-only b/c I can't fathom wanting anything other than usb there but perhaps that is short sighted? Anyone have suggestions for this part? I'm thinking I just need a pick tool to separate the two plastic pieces then drop the metal piece out from the inside and then remove the cover ring once the guts are out.
2. If I do get the in-cubby usb out, does the fancy usb with cover fit in there or do I need a smaller one matching what I've seen used in lower switch panel stuff?
3. Any tips on cutting? Lessons learned? Things not to do?
4. zip tie the main harness or leave it tucked but not zipped? I worry about someone coming along later and yanking hard without previously disconnecting things. seems like the 120v harness is well jacketed but I'm not sure if that should be disconnected at the plug or where it taps into the main. I actually taped that connection with harness tape because I was worried about it pulling free, but maybe that's a bad idea?

My one lesson learned is, don't tighten the ground for the 120v until you're sure where you want it to feed to. I have my white plug on the wrong side of the inverter now and I'll have to re-do it to get the console bolted back down because the white plug doesn't fit through once it's connected on the other end.

Photos of where I'm at right now.

 

What I can comment on:

Cutting: Cut small. You can then use a knife to trim to size. Plastic is soft and easily trimmable.
Open ground - in a 110V system, ground and neutral are "tied together" in the panel. the 110VAC from the inverter runs neutral in a separate wire, thereby not energizing the vehicle ground with 110VAC. So I'd think an open ground on the tester would be expected.
Red wire - I ran mine where your black wire is. It makes more sense to put it where you did. if I have the inclination, I may go in and change mine, as it's not terribly difficult to get apart. I managed to get the ring terminal to "thread" onto the bolt.

 

Yeah the ground will stay open because you're not properly grounded when you are in a vehicle. I too questioned this with my tester. So I undid everything and tested the bed outlet just to confirm.