2 questions - low speed shudder and roof leak

Just recently I've started to notice a shudder when slowly accelerating from a stop. I don't know how else to describe it, it feels as if the wheels are slightly hopping or binding? I don't know what else to say that would help diagnose this so please ask questions as I'm pretty lost for where to start looking.

Second issue that just happened today, my freaking roof is somehow leaking! I was sitting parked on a slight incline, facing downhill. Decently heavy rain but not a downpour. Notice that the headliner is slightly wet and then it starts dripping onto the shifter. When I drove away I went up a fairly steep hill and more water started dripping out of the garage door opener compartment, like it had pooled up inside the headliner somehow and when the truck tilted it dumped the pool out. Where could it possibly be leaking??

 

Have you checked the U-Joints.

As for the water leak, have you ever had the windshield replaced?

 

Yikes. I assume you don't have a roof rack?

 

No roof rack and the glass has never been replaced. I was looking at it and the gasket on the outside looked a little deformed. The only possible things I've read from here are 3rd gens with leaking rear brake lights but my headliner shows no signs of water. It was only where the picture shows.

For vibration I'll check my u joints. I did have the driveshaft replaced about 5 years ago.

 

Im assuming you're on road (2Hi) when this happens? Do you have a lift of any sort? If so, what?

Could be excess play in the carrier bearing. Might also be bad u-joint(s).

 

I doubt there's a silver bullet for the driveline vibrations ... but here's a ton of info that could possibly be used to address your problem:
I guess I'd start here:

• https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/vibration-diagnostics-for-all-tacomas-write-up.520607/

and then you may meander over here:

• https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/drive-shaft-vibrations-solved-step-by-step.244535/
• https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/just-fixed-driveline-vibration-for-free.153050/

 

We’ve gotten a week of rain and I experimented. The leak only happens when the trucks parked pointing downhill. Windshield gasket?

 

How many grease fittings should be on the driveshaft? I thought there were many but mine only has 2, one up front and one in the very rear. Nothing in the middle.

 

I believe the rear depends on what type of truck you have. My DCSB has 3 on the rear. The front drive shaft should have 2 grease fittings as far as I know. But they are both internal, so you got to spin the DS around until its just in the right spot to see & reach the fitting

 

Pull the headliner, watch for leaks. It can be pulled down by one person. It’s not necessary for driving. Or you can try hit or miss solutions.

 

You stick or auto?

 

I'm auto. For the leak, i'm getting my windshield replaced monday, we will see if that fixes things.

For the low speed shudder, I almost started another thread but figured I'd just continue this one. I greased all my driveline u-joints today. I only have 4, there is no fitting in the middle of the rear drive shaft like all the directions say there should be. I have 2 on the front shaft, 1 up near the transfer case on the rear shaft and then one on the very end of the 2nd part of the rear shaft, nothing in the middle where the 2 parts are joined.

Now, 2 more questions: when IN DRIVE (does NOT happen when just in neutral) I have a very loud squeak when in reverse. I thought at first it was the leaf springs but it only happens when I'm actually in reverse. When I put it in neutral and let it roll back it's silent. WHY?

2nd question: should I be able to move the driveshaft back/forth/up/down? The carrier bearing definitely allows the driveshaft to move a fairly large amount (maybe 1/2 an inch? I'm not sure how to measure but I was surprised at the amount of movement).

So, given those 2 symptoms what does that mean?

 

I have a 2005 Taco with the same issue of shudder when accelerating from a stop. I have only had the truck for 3 months and it had the issue when I bought it. It has a 3 inch lift. Why do you ask about the lift? Is it normal to have this type of shudder with a lift? This is my 1st truck.

 

Carrier bearing would be my guess. When I put a brand new one in it had maybe 1/4" of play in it. (Kind of a subjective measurement based on how hard you push the DS but you get the point..)

Probably when you're coasting the DS is just free wheeling along, but when its under load the CB is probably getting some force exerted on it.

Also as a side note, I would bet the center u-joint that doenst have a grease fitting is aftermarket.

 

Yeah. There are a lot of threads on it. Basically when you have a lift on a truck it changes the geometry of the drive shaft. The shudder you feel is actually from the u-joints and the way they change their rotational speed as they go through a full rotation (physics stuff...)

Common solutions are a carrier bearing drop and shims under the leafs springs to change the pinion angle of the rear diff. To really get it dialed in right, you have to take measurements and figure out what you need. A lot of guys will just tell you throw XYZ degree shim in and call it good.

 

Thanks for the info. Will it cause damage to the truck driving it as is? Will it get worse over time if not addressed? To me it is only a minor annoyance right now.

 

I’ve read about as many threads as possible on this, it’s definitely my center bearing. I called several places to get estimates, some told me they wouldn’t do it and I’d have to replace the entire drive shaft. I got one estimate from a dealer for about $600, another dealer said $1300 because they’d only replace the entire drive shaft and bearing, one shop said they’d have to see it and another independent place said about $500 for the bearing replacement.

Before anybody says “do it yourself” I don’t have a bearing press and don’t have a 30 mm socket and I’d have to do the work in my driveway by myself. So basically even though I could save a few hundred dollars doing it myself I don’t think I’m able to.

 

IMO the hardest part is getting the center u-joint out so that you can get the yoke off and then get to the CB. A shop press makes that a lot easier, but you can do it with a BFH if you try.

Tools you would want to consider having: a swivel socket for the 8 bolts holding the driveshaft to the t-case & diff, impact socket for the large nut holding the center yoke on, 2/3 jaw puller to get the old CB off (it will probably be destroyed in the process so whatever works..), & torque wrench. An impact wrench would be nice but a breaker bar should work, and as I said a small press is the best way to do u-joints. And technically you would also want to buy a new nut from Toyota for the yoke, because that gets staked to prevent it from loosening up, but a lot of people just reuse the original.

Im not trying to convince you one way or the other, but theres no way I would pay that much for a $70 part.

 

Roll up the windows. Turn the fan on high. Close the door. Spray around the windshield with soapy water and you'll probably find some bubbles forming.

 

Well, both things are fixed or getting fixed. I had insurance replace my windshield, in my state it’s a zero deductible fix so that was free. My shudder is hopefully going to be fixed tomorrow, I’m having the center u joints and carrier bearing replaced for $600. Yeah, I know the parts don’t cost that much but I really didn’t have confidence that I could do it myself.

The unexpected and most expensive thing is my brakes need replaced. No, not just pads and rotors, the calipers themselves are both shot. They’re original and have 165000 miles on them and have finally given up. That’s going to be $1000. So $1600 poorer but I’ll have a working truck again at least. I’m trying to look at it “glass half full”, it took 160,000 miles to get to this so hopefully it’ll be another 160,000 before I need to worry about it again.

I plan on keeping this until the wheels fall off and I can’t fix it anymore so I’m ok with putting money into it.