New VFtune install

Thanks for the reply
My second or 1st vehicle is a 2002 Chevy Silverado 2wd reg cab shortbed 5.3 with 3.73 gears. I know the Tacoma will never have the torque and drivability as that but would like for it to not feel Anemic like I’m driving a Honda Civic at speed

 

Definitely two different vehicles from the build perspective. 18 years apart, so the motivations for the engineers are completely different too.

I drove my wife’s Gen 5 Disco a few days ago and the transmission is pretty sorted on that thing. Rode with my daughter in her clubman Mini the other day too. It’s pretty sorted out when in sport mode.

The taco used to drive me crazy around town. Learning when to give it extra gas so it wouldn’t upshift was a pain. I tend to lead the engine with the pedal rather than mashing it to where I’m going to end up. Leading was hard in the taco. After the tune, it’s much more predictable and really holds gears like you think it should. And I’m not even using ECT at the moment and I was a regular user before. I have it tied to the MESO shift knob switch.

What year are you? I’m in an ‘18 04A61 ECU. If there were someone local to you, I’m sure they’d be willing to let you ride/drive in theirs.

<edit>. Ahhhh, ‘16.

 

Not sure of my ECU
My truck is 2018 TRD Pro

 

You are either 04A60 or 04A61.

 

Just took the truck around for 50 miles after flashing a tune after the "clunky" period, huge smile on my face.

Thanks so much to the guys that made the process as smooth as possible with thorough write-ups and answering my questions along the way.

@tonered @Redline870 @wrightme43

 

You're welcome!

It is great to hear that the tune is settling nicely. Enjoy it!

 

I think it might have been here that folks were asking for corrected and more info in the ECU Update thread? Note that @tcBob updated the title since the info is applicable to ATs also. I updated my first post in the thread:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ecu-tsb-update.562550/page-4#post-18435734

Lemme know if you see anything odd.


Post 69, FTW!

 

I'm about to do the TSB update. Taking a look at the excellent guidance in post 69, I see a battery maintainer is recommended. As I understand it, this is to ensure the electrical system has a steady voltage while flashing as inconsistency can cause issues. I get that, but I've also never heard of anyone (explicitly) stating they used one. Is this a high-priority item? Too risky without? If so, what maintainer would you guys recommend?

 

Well, I will tell you how it went for me. I used the battery charger at work instead of my battery tender at home. Set it on 2 amps 12v. Techstream would not recognize, and insisted I was using a 24v system. Removed charger and it went incredibly fast and easy.

 

The tender is to keep the volts above the cutoff. Something around 10v or so. Unsteady voltage is not an issue.

Interesting. It might have been measuring something in the current? Some of the maintainers charge at a higher initial voltage also.


Usually here, the big deal is knowing if your truck and laptop batteries are solid or not. If in doubt, use a charger. If you know they are in good shape, then you can run on battery power. Those instructions are based on the Toyota TSB where they have no real clue about the condition of your battery.



And finally, I was given ownership of the 1st Post in the ECU Update thread. So, all of Post 69 has been copied to Post 1.

 

I'd like to think my batteries should be good. Stock battery on the truck which was bought almost 2 years ago. My laptop is a surface book 2 and has had no battery issues. So sounds like I'd be good to go.

Post 69 will forever be in our hearts.

 

Well, according to TW, the stock battery was lucky to make it out of the dealer lot.

I know mine is solid for at least a half hour plus of music on accessory and never struggles to turn the engine over. The flash takes less than 10min.


Hahaha! Same here. I was so excited about the original TSB that I never noticed that post number.

 

What's the risk if I go without the maintainer and the battery proves insufficient to complete the flash? Jump start the truck, an inconvenience, or brick the ECU, an actual nightmare?

Edit: I tried to test the drivers via establishing a connection to the vehicle. I didn't see the option described in the guide. It fails as expected since I'm not actually connected to a vehicle but before doing so, informs me I'm not connected to the internet and that I have a limited number of offline operations before registering the software. Doing so takes me to a TIS login page. I'm assuming I've either done something wrong or this is expected behavior.

 

I believe for both the TSB and OVT you are looking at brickage. It has been so long that I cannot remember the exact details from it happening, but most bricking can be reversed. There are some instructions, a bit of jumper fabbing, and tricks for this. But, I think hitting the voltage cutoff is on the more serious end of things?

Someone else might be able to jump in here with more info.

The real deal is knowing that your battery can handle 10min without the motor running. Of course, turn the lights and HVAC off. No big drains on the battery while flashing tunes.

You will see in the OV Flash Tool that there is live voltage values.

 

I thought the truck was supposed to be off during the flash? I feel like I should last 10 min (there's a joke there) but it also sounds spooky, especially if it ends up taking longer.

I tried to test the drivers via establishing a connection to the vehicle. I didn't see the option described in the guide. It fails as expected since I'm not actually connected to a vehicle but before doing so, informs me I'm not connected to the internet and that I have a limited number of offline operations before registering the software. Doing so takes me to a TIS login page. I'm assuming I've either done something wrong or this is expected behavior.

 

Yes. You start with the key out and the truck off. From there you just follow the on-screen instructions exactly. You will spend most of the flash time with the truck turned On but without the engine running.

A bit of nerves is good. You're messing with a sensitive and pricey bit of hardware. So, heightened awareness is good.

The best way to test drive things is connecting TS and doing a customization. Say, change the one touch turn signals from three blinks (default) to four. Or, killing the seat belt chimes.

That ensures your connection and such.

Once you are comfy there, close TS, and give the CUW flash a whirl.

It is unlikely that you will use TS 30 times. I am not sure why that countdown comes up for some folks. If you get low, just uninstall / reinstall. You will at least get 30 more sessions.

I don't know about the TiS login. The only time I got that was when I accidentally hit the TiS button. In general, you want to stay offline and just use software found separately.

Of course, if you want to get a TiS subscription, you can do it. But, go there through a browser, not with our hacked TS.

 

You rock. I think I'll still snag a maintainer because I'm paranoid and this is my DD.

 

Thanks!



They're great to have around, esp as a battery fades. It gives you the opportunity to shop for a new one. There used to be good Schumacher brand ones at WallyWorld for cheap. Of course, anybody that you know with a motorcycle would have one that you might borrow.

 

You’ll be fine. I’ve done multiple TSBs and OVT flashes. It’ll warn you if your voltage is too low and not proceed.

 

I know OV does. Does TS?