Northern Virginia Roll Call

I haven't gotten under it recently to check both leaf spring settling from the 2.75in initial gain, as well as taking any drive line measurements after putting in the 4* shims.

Of course with the front end angles about to be tossed around with possibly removing the front diff drop, and install of the Elka coilovers which are preset to ~2.5" over stock height, I'm not entirely sure what will happen ultimately with those ujoint working angles. I did keep the 3* shim I originally ordered as part of the shim kit from Headstrong, then realized I needed 3.9* to get to absolute 0 in the a+b+c=0 driveline happiness.

Here were the measurements (of course I was dumb/noob and didn't take pre-Dobinsons leaf install measurements)
A=3.4 down
B=2.7 down
C=10 up

So...Ideal setup with the A and B angles is: (3.4)+(2.7)+(-6.1)=0

10-6.1=3.9 degree shim

This resolved that gawd awful rotational grinding while coasting...EVERYONE knew when I was coming in and out of parking lots!!

For what it is worth, I do have some vibes at ~50mph and at ~68mph, but not much more than I had with the truck out of the dealership...plus I'm usually driving over or under these ranges.

 

Their's seem like a reasonable cost. I just hate the idea of paying for shipping on these things too. $200 for shipping hurts. I was looking into SOS and mobtown for that reason

 

I paid about $150 to ship my skids. Considering their quality, I think that's more than worth it. I don't mind doing the same for sliders, but I'd love to support the local company (Mobtown Offroad), I just have no idea if I can use their sliders with the full BAMF skid package.

 

I had a grinding noise too. It wasnt as noticeable when in a parking lot though. And when i put in the new driveshaft, it definitely went away. So it could possibly have been the carrier bearing. I think spec is 1/4" of play in the rubber.

So you did the rear suspension, without doing the front? Maybe when you install the front, it will level things out? I would definitely remove the diff drop. There was a big tread from a mod who destroyed the front diff by having the drop installed. Id get that out asap before you go off pavement.

 

I have Mobtown weld on sliders. They weld on the outside of the frame, with nothing that wraps around. If the skids dont go on the outside of the frame, then youre probably good

 

This is the transfer case skid, which I assume is the only skid that would possibly conflict with anything:

http://www.bayareametalfab.com/2005-2020-Tacoma-Transfercase-Skid_p_70.html

Any idea if that will conflict with something like this:

https://mobtownoffroad.com/product/2016-2020-toyota-tacoma-heavy-duty-bolt-on-rock-slider/

 

I only had the leaf springs back in May (CV delayed the shocks and coilovers which arrived last Friday).

I've already picked up the stock front diff support bolts and nuts to replace the longer set when I pull the drop spacers.

Saturday morning my BiL and I will be installing rear shocks, SPC UCAs, front coilovers and pulling the front diff drop. Probably will drop it, torque wheel lugs and pull drive shaft measurements before driving to an alignment shop that @TaKoToy brought to my attention.

EDIT: gotta do mods where and when I can between the wife and baby, time is precious!

 

I used to have Mobtown bolt on sliders. I have RCI full skids, and if they bolt up to the same general place, they shouldnt interfere. (the mobtown picture isnt loading on my work computer, so I cant confirm). But I don't think they would have any issues.

 

I'm running bolt-on Mobtown Sliders, of course once I get my exhaust reroute done, I'll be getting the neighbors magnetic drill setup on (likely, still haven't put it up to measure/trace the overlap) the slider and frame to drill for the SOS t-case side...since theirs has 4 total frame anchoring spots that need to be drilled, I'll just do them all with him vs. marking the sliders and pulling them to drill (though I do need to pull them this fall for sanding and re-rattlecanning) and then drilling the frame, putting sliders back on and then mounting the t-case...

All this assumes the overlap won't cause alignment and fitment issues...but I'll just cross that bridge later!

 

I don't have BAMF's t-case skid, but here's how Mobtown's t-case is designed to mount to the frame...not sure it helps.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/mobtown-offroad-3rd-gen-toyota-tacoma-skid-plates.439279/page-4

 

Here's how the RCI transfer case skid compares to BAMF:


Looks like the "wing" bolts to the inside of the frame and not the underside like the BAMF?

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...th-bamf-bolt-on-sliders.533738/#post-17178117

 

Great find. Will that put any sort of weird stress on the joint between the tcase and trans skid?

Gonna end up going BAMF at this rate, I just know it lol

 

Quoting myself for the win!

So I will be doing what Jerry said, but mine will be Mobtown sliders with the SOS Offroad T-case overtop. Now I feel like I need to map this out and get photos of the layout/overlap area, if any at all exists.

 

Not sure what joint you mean, the crossmember that the mid and t-case mate up?

 

I assume the tcase skid mates up directly with the transmission. If it's stacked on the back end, does it make that less flush?

Also please keep me posted as you may be living my soon (Autumn?) reality lol.

 

So generally speaking, aftermarket skids run interconnected in some shape or form.

I know with the SOS trio, the IFS (front) gets mounted with the (2) 17mm on the front subframe, then (2) more 17mm behind the oil filter access plate, then the rear gets (2) factory 12mm bolts. The Transmission (mid) lays inside the back of the front skid and are bolted together, then the mid skids rear mounting point is on the crossmember (front end half) existing bolts and nuts. The t-case (rear) skid uses for it's front mount the crossmember (rear half) and then has the two "wing tabs" that you drill into the frame to anchor it.

https://images.app.goo.gl/vTcBGW1fwPDx4bwa9
This is probably the cleanest SOS trio of skid setup, but hopefully that makes more sense than my attempt at install instructions!

 

Yeah I think the BAMF tcase and tranny skid hook up similarly. That's my only area of concern (probably needless)--since the back of the tcase skid (the wings) will be stacked on the sliders--not flush as intended/designed--does that stacking make the tcase/tranny hook up less flush and secure? Does it create unnecessary stress there?

 

I'm no engineer, mechanic or fabricator...I would say for the stacking of skid and t-case "wing" won't decrease your clearance, might just be for the anal-retentive eyesight folks at an angle.

Don't think there is concern for unnecessary stress for the skid or the anchoring points...but again I'm not structural engineer, or anything remotely qualified to opine other than just that, my amateur ill-experience uneducated opnion!

 

FWIW I am an engineer and your opinion is more informed than mine