TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Thanks @Torspd for pioneering the connection with RD radiators.

 

Could these also be symptoms of a vacuum leak? I just messed around with the actuator, seemed to be function normally, closed with throttle, opened at idle. I just don't want to go through the trouble of pulling the SC if it's just a hose leak or something stupid like that. I know how to check for leaks, what I don't know is if a vacuum leak would cause whining at idle or not? Thanks for the help BTW.

 

keep an eye on the intercooler coolant until you replace bypass valve. wouldn't be a good time to suddenly develop a leak. LC engineering sells replacement.
https://www.lceperformance.com/Supercharger-Accessories-5VZ-1GR-TRD-Bypass-Valv-p/7010128.htm

 

Can you take a video of this so we can get a better idea? You will have to upload it to youtube to post it on the forum. Most people are used to hearing a rattle at idle, which is normal for the most part. Anyway a video will be very helpful in diagnosing as chances are someone has had a similar issue before!

 

You can read through this thread.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/agm-battery-charging-alternator-voltage-booster.611314/

I was using the diode at first to test if it worked. The diode costs ~$10

I did end up buying the hkb fuse that costs $50 shipped.

I haven’t had any issues since.

 

One other point. No it is not ok to use a stand alone trans cooler in place of the engine cooler(warmer). The coolant heats up quicker than the transmission fluid and is responsible for heating the trans fluid in the winter months. It is not advisable to remove this functionality.

 

Whining at idle vacuum leak or not is not normal, and despite you being able to move the valve back and forth means nothing unless you apply vacuum to it.

Have someone turn it on and see if the valve actuates once the truck turns on. If it does not, there's your problem right there.

 

Thank you. This is what I needed to know. the rad I ordered doesn’t have the trans lines, so back to the drawing board. How much was that RD rad?

 

Well 70k miles later my gates belt is finally coming apart. Gonna give the green one a try and hopefully get it swapped over this weekend.

 

What belt is that? The RPM?

 

Hmmm. It was not cheap. It was one of those purchases that made sense at the time, but would be impossible to justify. I'll have to go look at my receipts, but I think it was somewhere around $2,300 for the radiator, shroud, trans cooler, and fans. I think it was another couple hundred for the integrated reservoir cooler. But that was a premium because is was a custom design. Now there's a couple of these around so they already have the design completed, and shouldn't have to charge for the custom design and fab.

 

Thank you for that.
It looks like the fuse is the way to go, but they are listed as "out of stock"on the HKB website.
EDIT: eBay has it
EDIT2: Also I was following the link for MK2, they have the MK3 in stock.

 

The fleet runner.

 

Not bad brother. I must have been buying a string of garbage belts or old stock or something. What size pulley do you have?

 

Oh you were asking what belt I was running. I’m not sure what model it was, but it was a gates brand oem replacement. Switching to the fleet runner now. And I think I’m actually running a 2.85” pulley. Whatever size urd was selling that you didn’t have to shave the snout.

Now that I’m thinking about it I should probably replace the tensioner since it’s been broken since I swapped belts 70k miles ago lol. Any of those fancy ones from page one bolt right in or do they all need some modification?

 

They need modification bud. They are worth it though. Especially that Roush tensioner. If you want to make it really worth your while it would be in your best interest to put the LFP double bearing roller on it for added stability. Ahh yeah, the 2.85. I think that the larger pulleys tend to want to cause less wear on the belt. That's just a gut feeling though. The smaller the pulley the higher the stress on everything.

 

Thanks. I’ll look at them and see what I want to do. Chopping up rear suspension this weekend and wasn’t really planning on sc stuff until I saw the belt coming apart. May just get a belt for now

 

Get a Gates RPM belt. Solidly built, OE sized, no cutting needed and fantastic grip, just like the Fleetrunner, but better built. It'll do fine on your blower until you can foot the time and resources for making the Roush tensioner yours.

 

I had to drive down to LA and I rented a pathfinder. Goodness does that thing suck. Under 700 miles and it sounds like it’s got a blown sway bar end link. Engine is noisy and gutless too. I’ve also never been in a car that didn’t “creep” while in gear. You actually had to press down the pedal to move in reverse.

 

I can't remember the exact millimeter diameters of the pulleys... but I think the stock was one size, Roush is larger, and the LFP double is smaller. Is there a reason that we don't put the OEM pulley onto the roush tensioner body? What am I missing? Double bearings are good, no doubt. is there a known problem with the stock pulley? I know the stock tensioner bracket is weak, but from a pulley perspective... I would think that if the roush had a lot larger spring and needed a beefier pulley, that same force would be put on all the pulleys in the system due to the added belt tension.

School me on what I'm missing please! For the record my blower is not installed yet so I don't have the first hand knowledge of the clearance, swing, etc of the oem or roush tensioner.