Flatbed,35’s and Mainly Parked For Repairs

Currently going through it all. Josh (@NeonHeights ) has been an awesome resource since he did it on his old truck.

doesn’t seem to be much to it other than dealing up the hole that is made to fit the sticks.

Also if you’re not getting rid of the add (operated via switch to engage the front) there isn’t a need to twin stick since you can go 4low and not engage the front.

very interesting stuff lol.

 

If I go this route, I will be doing the add delete. It seems to be one of the weakest points in the system.

 

That and the 4x4 actuator on the Tacoma transfer case itself. After seeing josh’s fail and it leaving his vehicle unable to move I had it in my mind to do it. Plus I can do this entire upgrade for the cost of a 4x4 actuator alone.

 

Such a cool build!

 

Thanks!

 

Update.

a while ago after a trail run I decided to get a second driveshaft. I was rubbing on rocks and it was only a matter of time until a broke a shaft. My idea was to get a wrecker shaft, build it and freshen it up and so the trucks not down. That rebuilt shaft would become the new and improved shaft I would run all the time where the original would be the spare since I knew it’s history and could trust it as a spare. Why go through and rebuild two shafts completely right.
got the shaft and started to break it down

Cleaning it up as may as well paint it. And the light caught it perfectly for me to see this.

Great. So $400 later for a resleeve and I’m at this point.
fresh u joints from spicer, new carrier bearing. Good to go.

It’s in the truck now and so far so good.

here is the original shaft which is now the spare



Also.....got this



Acquiring parts for this begins.

 

Fj t case information, conversion, build, install

T-case/stick info
-need a auto 4x4 t case from a 2007-2013 fj
-link for twin sticks https://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/twin-stick/

Conversion info
-How to split the case and twin stick the case-https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/smkytxns-2011-dcfbftmfw-solid-axle-swap.497018/page-34#post-17602131
-ways to mount twin sticks https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/neonheights-build.547749/#post-17816665

Add-Delete info
-add delete info
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-deleting-add-system.427258/
-Wiring
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lets-see-your-fj-case-swap.455278/page-36#post-22522980
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lets-see-your-fj-case-swap.455278/page-32#post-22250696



Purchased

Split the case
Removed the pill
Twin stick on order

update Feb 5
Twin stick clearance got done

all seals pretty much changed

And twin stick roughly mounted

 

Went winter wheeling. Said hi to a tree


Also more work on the case.

 

Looking good!

 

Thanks lol. Have a shit ton to do from here but as of right now the case is done.....assuming it doesn’t leak when I fill it with oil....

 

Well...have had some time to work on the truck.

got the skids off, driveshafts out and the old tcase out.

mocked up the new tcase and marked out the cut the best I could. Not much room to see or work....

Made a few cuts after stripping the interior

This is kinda how it will work. Made a few more cuts after this to clean up the hole.

Have a bit to do with the shifters, more cutting to fit the shifters. Then the finish work of sealing the floor, and dressing up the shifters.

Crummy part....found out the front pinion is loose and leaking. I’m assuming the crush washers lost preload....will be dropping the diff to ensure it is all good.

 

Fj t case information, conversion, build, install

T-case/stick info
-need a auto 4x4 t case from a 2007-2013 fj
-link for twin sticks https://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/twin-stick/

Conversion info
-How to split the case and twin stick the case-https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/smkytxns-2011-dcfbftmfw-solid-axle-swap.497018/page-34#post-17602131
-ways to mount twin sticks https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/neonheights-build.547749/#post-17816665

Add-Delete info
-add delete info
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-deleting-add-system.427258/
-Wiring
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lets-see-your-fj-case-swap.455278/page-36#post-22522980
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lets-see-your-fj-case-swap.455278/page-32#post-22250696



Purchased

Split the case
Removed the pill
Twin stick on order

update Feb 5
Twin stick clearance got done

all seals pretty much changed

And twin stick roughly mounted

Removed the old t-case

Began cutting and dicing up the floor to determine how much room was needed

I removed the fj case a bunch of times for this to fit as best as I could.

With the fj case sticking out from the floor, needed to make brackets that would allow you to clear the stock shifter.

I ended up using a allen head set screw instead of the bolts, since it is pretty tight to the shifter.

I then made some shift levers out of some 1/2" rod and tapped them to fit the shift nobs

Made them long as they would have to be bent and then welded to the square pieces above

While the interior was apart, I took out the ECU and wired the sensors on the case to work with the dash.

Started putting the interior together. Had to cut a lot of the stock shifter to fit the sticks.

As for the floor sealing, I made two aluminum brackets that would sit on the twin stick base that would sandwich the gasket material. The gasket then would be bolted down, using rivet-nuts in the floor.


Everything together (just missing shift boots).

Have to just adjust a few things, as the case does rattle and I didn't consider that when clearancing things. Went for a drive and so far so good.


Also, I didn't mention that @tgelata helped me with a machined piece for the shifters to ride on. Much smoother and fitted a lot better!

 

While the shifters were being done, I figured I may as well strip the interior and clean everything. While doing that, I figured I would sound deaden. Since I was sound deadening things I figured I would put in a new stereo....Talk about squirrel.

Interior stripped.

Sound deadening on the back wall. Didn't get any pictures for the roof and by the front seat area but its there. Thanks @Norilsk for the roller tool and also you and @Manfred for the extra sound deadening.

And new radio

Simple unit that allows for bluetooth and stuff. Its a kenwood. Ordered from crutch field.

 

The stock shift knobs that came with the twin stick were very big and it was difficult to bend the shifters so they would shift past each other.

I ended up buying $20 worth of solid 1” aluminum bar and making some knobs.
Little before and after



Also, with some eBay shift boots, a sewing needle, and zip ties i have a shifter boot.
It ain’t perfect but it should work.


currently have the front diff out to have the pinion torqued and to have the seal checked since it was leaking and had a lot of play. I didn’t want to screw with the preload. Could have brought the whole truck in but it would have been a month wait to get into the shop.



Once I get the Diff back I should have all the parts for the add delete.

 

Diff is assembled and ADD is gone.
It is all assembled now and driving. Have to take some finished pics but it’s nice to drive the truck again! Hopefully nothing blows up!

 

Well....second trip out I had some issues.
At first it appeared to just be the tie rod and a cv axle. Easy enough fix on the trail.


However, as I was trying to get off the obstacle and put the truck in 4wd, something blew.


Still have to drop the diff, but to avoid a $1200 tow I drove it home with little to know diff fluid. My thoughts were that the ring hear may already be cooked, and I was taking a gamble on the survival of the locker. See how this pans out. Thinking it will be another front end rebuild with new gears and debating a locker.

 

I guess the question that has to be answered now is how to prevent this from happening again? and to answer that question you have to know what made it happen in the first place? and to know what made it happen you would have to consider all the possible causes and what was the most probable cause.

I want to take guess at this.

1st. inner tie rod bent
then outter cv bound up
then with locker on someting has to give
so axle shaft broke and the locker being locked kept turning the splined axle piece in the spider gear and as the broken axle shaft piece rotated around it bound up in the axle tube and broke the tube. In the video there are 2 distinctive "snaps" my thoughts are the first one is the axle shaft, the second the axle tube.

now how to prevent this from happening again?

just guessing hear...

1 sleeve the inner tie rod
2 don't have a front locker

This got me second guessing my build I wanted to build mine the very same way as yours but after seeing this I'm not sure anymore

I know you don't need any help but if there is anything I can help you with let me know..

 

I am pretty sure your guess is correct. The one thing that has me concerned however is that in the video you took it almost sounds like something broke before the tie rod and cv went boom. Could be a suspension creak, or something that I am taking for a shaft break but who knows.

I think the cv popped because my shocks are allowing too much droop (possible broken internal limiting part in the shock).

I think another big concern is the weight. Most people that break this part are driving pretty hard and are in double low (crawl box) and locked. So I have to put my pig on a diet (tool box, air tank and awning are already gone). Smaller battery up front and going through and shedding a lot of gear that’s not needed. Have a setup that’s for camping/touring and one specifically for playing.

I think it was the perfect storm of events that all fell into place to cause this. To fix this I’m leaning towards:

-new shocks that don’t droop as much as mine
-possibly using limit straps or adding my sway bar back on
-considered beefing the tie rod but I still want that to be the weak link, and the tie rod theoretically should bend and not cause these issues.
-possibly getting new UCAs that have a ball joint that isn’t as adjustable. Not sure if part of my droop issue is my UCA’s.
-put pig on a diet.

lots to think about and I appreciate the help! Won’t be too bad to fix, just parts are pricey. Still debating about the locker.

 

I weighed my truck on the way back 2620kg. 5776lbs with camping gear tent ect. ect.