Stripped bolt hole and bolt for seat

Was re-installing my front passenger seat last night. Please don't ask how I did it, but I ended up stripping a bolt and bolt hole...

I found Lake City Toyota carries the bolt, but who/where would I go to rethread and doesn't charge a large amount?

Thanks for your help.

 

You could try using a tap & die set to rethread the hole. They're a pretty handy kit to have around the house, so use this as a good excuse to pick up a set

$0.02 of opinion - Don't over-torque bolts!!! Snug tight is usually enough! If it's a critical bolt (IE - carrying alot of load), look up the torque specs for the bolt and do it right by using a torque wrench!

 

Thanks for your suggestions. I'm an idiot and still super angry at myself. I DIY to save money...but...yup.

 

Not saying that - I think anyone who tells me they've never over torque'd a bolt is lying. Why do you think I own a tap & die set? lol

I think you'll be able to fix it easily. Good luck with the repair dude

 

If that doesn’t work helicoil

 

I would take the new toyota bolt to lowes, home depot, or a local hardware store and figure out what size thread and pitch the bolt is. Then get a tap to match that bolt and try to use that to save the threads. If that fails, like others have mentioned, you can go up a size

 

Skip Home Depot and go to a hardware store with a better fastener selection.

First option is to get a “Plug” tap, a tap handle, and some cutting fluid to chase the threads.

If the threads are fouled enough, you may need to use a Helicoil insert. This requires drilling a larger hole and inserting a small cylindrical insert that brings your threaded hole back to the original size. You can purchase a kit to do this at an auto parts store or a good hardware store.

Under $50 if option 1 is successful. About $100 for a helicoil kit if it comes to that.

 

what do you recommend for a good but inexpensive set?

(Don’t mean to change the topic, but now I find myself searching for tools).

 

Another vote for tap and die set, seriously, get one.

Last year when i first started learning about tinkering on my truck, i fucked up 2 of my seats so badly that trying to manually force bolts, i tore part of my ligaments in my arms (tennis elbow). My arm was FUBAR for months, had to do physical therapy etc.

If someone would have told me tap and die set earlier, i wouldn't have had that shit show. Mistakes happen.

 

I think it depends on how much you forsee using it. You might be able to find a cheap Craftsman set that'll do the job. I've had pretty good luck with the Tekton brand of tools - I think they're made in South Korea if not purchasing Chinesium matters to you. Either way, they make some decent stuff that has held up well to my incompetence...

 

I believe the front bolt is the same as the rears. M10x1.25 25mm long. You can get a three or four pack at Oreillys for about $4. Ace Hardware has them also in various lengths and about double the price.

Torque is 37N-m / 27ft-lb.


IMVHO, while the front seat rail loads should mainly be reacted through the shear pin (front / rear impact) or through the bolt in shear (side impact). If the damage is more than a full thread, I might jump straight to a helicoil.


Just some info from the shaped spacer thread:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-3-4-lift-for-the-rear-of-front-seats.571318/

 

This thread got me thinking then i realized that I still have 6 of these bolts still waiting for me at Lake City Toyota lol
If 90119-A0361 was the same part number. I never needed to get them because of the tap and die.

 

Thank you all for your help and input. I went to Home Depot to purchase a tap and die set. Used a non-messed up screw to measure and found it was M10x1.25. Used the tap to rethread the hole, got new bolts, and voila' - it went in just like that. I think I cross threaded and didn't end up stripping (thankfully).

I appreciate you all for helping me out of this one.

Edit: ended up just picking the bolts from Toyota - they were about $1.20 per bolt.

 

Awesome!!

 

I'm guessing somebody is an ME... Out of curiosity, would you ever consider local buckling the track flanges due to bearing stress caused by the bolt heads? I could see something like this happening in a "frame overturn" event, like the front seat wanting to tip over during a head on collision.

In my line of work (structural) we design our systems to have a controlled failure of the base material way before any of the bolts begin to yield. I'm curious to see if you guys even need to consider stuff like this since you guys can use airbags and crumble zones to dissipate alot of the energy from the impact.

 

Aero (stupidly by degree) and OJT'ed into ME. Initially in design, then structural stress and cert. I am still in the aero industry working on cert, test, and QMS for passenger seats.

Most certainly. A member should alway yield / fail before a connection. I would expect the seat rails to deform during an event. For the Taco, it is mainly seat self weight on the outside, but we do have the seat belt buckle connected to the seat structure on the inside.

The main thing here is that that frontal load is reacted by the vertical shear pin going into the floor. The stiffest element. The front bolt would pick up loading if that yields. IMVHO, it is what makes those front spacers so dangerous. They took a shear connection and made it a pivot for all impact directions. I took a good look at the rear seat spacers and is the reason that I use them. Just a bolt bending check. No critical change in safety.

 

Those seat bolts do like to have ... issues. Mine seemed to want to gall on the way in, maybe a little lube might help?

 

This thread is doing the lords work. Thank you gentlemen.

 

I’m wondering if despite clear instructions, we did the same thing. ☹️