3rd Gen HID vs LED vs Halogen H11 projector headlights

Modification to the bulb, which is the same as I use on other vehicles.

 

Spot on with all of the above. Off topic but hilarious https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ni-u0znkriA

@Rainoffire

 

Spot on the Kaiser one hurts a lot of my friends. Im from Kahaluu and the castle one is hilarious too

 

Seeing that photo prompted me to purchase a set of the iJDMToy adapters in the links for my wife’s JGC. They look cheap compared to the Nokyas but they are available whereas the only Nokya set I found looking this AM was from a suspect third party vendor.

I figure I’d rather melt the adapter harness instead, at least for testing purposes. I’ve seen very few people with the above issue but I don’t feel like taking a chance when her Jeep has the full Maxcare warranty and I don’t need to give them a reason to challenge me.

 

Note that if that were to happen, you can replace just the connector. Again, I've not seen/heard this happen on any other vehicles, but encouraged him to share in here for others and see if anyone else had a similar issue.
New replacement connector:

1x Connector 2-way for Toyota Bulb H11 81170-47520 w/out wire

https://www.amazon.com/Connector-lamp-Honda-Toyota-wire/dp/B075WRVN31

 

Is your set up switchbacks or just amber?

 

This is the nokya H9 harness set I bought. They were shipped fast. They are good quality. Seller seems fine.

 

Too bad it isn’t nokIa. Those would outlast the truck

 

Farrington cracks me up too.

 

Damn, that sucks. I just installed some H9 bulbs for my low beams. The difference is great, but your pics has me worried. I'm gonna go disconnect my harness to check. Did you have them plugged all the way in?

Here's my H9s with the SS3 Sport fogs.


H11s with SS3 Sport fogs

 

Yup i did plugged it all the way. The driver side is fine.

 

Saw that link, out of stock. I would have gotten those if I could have.

I’ll have to see when I’m in there how much extra room I have. I’ll run the harness for a bit and if heat isn’t an issue, I’ll swap back to the stock connector and be done with it.

I just like having backups just in case.

 

I thought you installed the OEM LEDs?

Never mind, I see you were talking about your wife’s vehicle.

 

Halos are switchback (but set to amber only), Meso side markers are switchback (but set to amber only) and the DRLs are amber only (they also blink amber with the blinkers).
When you set switchbacks to amber only, they cannot be used as turn signals because you use the wire that you would normally connect to the turn signals. Diode dynamics made their switchbacks to where you could run amber all the time. They stay 100% for a second, then drop down to 50%.

 

@caribe makaira came up with the best solution I've seen where you could still use just amber and have it function as a turn signal as well. Just FYI. Post 466 https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/led-headlight-sidemarkers.564891/page-24 This could easily be adjusted to run all of your amber lights. But the main reason I asked is I am kind of doing the same set up (halo, new DRL board, side markers, but matching fogs in with it as well), but all will be switchbacks. So I was hoping to see them in white. I like the way the headlight works thought with the halo, OEM DRL, and sidemarker though. Looks good Now, back to drifting....

 

Are you upgrading to TRD lights? The switchback halos are really easy with the SR/SR5 wiring with Diode Dynamics.
I just connected the red wire to the DRL/turn signal, white wire to parking lights and amber to rear turn signals. White halo DRLs at 100% brightness with the stalk at DRL, parking and headlights the halos are 50% white and turn signals switch the halos to amber. I just threw an amber demon eye in to my faux high beam projector to stick with the classic Tacoma amber lighting theme.

 

That's a great idea for using switchbacks! Since Diode Dynamics give priority to the Amber, it wouldn't matter that the Red (DRL) wire is getting a pulsing signal while the turn signal is on. My original plan is to run the turn signal and DRL signal through relays though, as the amps start adding up with 2 halos (600mA each in amber), the DRL board (1160mA) and 2-3" LED strips (guessing around 500mA). That comes up to almost 2.3A each side with the turn signal on. I'm guessing the turn signal circuit could handle that though, as it won't have an incandescent to deal with. I already have the rear turn signals run up to the cab as I am using them to trigger side cameras, so even better. I'm going to hit you up with a PM so I don't sidetrack this thread too much. Thanks

 

Apologies for the delayed response to this post. While an interesting idea, I just don't see this as a practical test for me to preform. I don't have a way to automate continuous output testing to find that threshold, leaving it subject to manual test intervals over extended periods, which would be difficult at best. In this one, I'll defer to manufacture spec for bulb life. It typically won't tell you how fast the output is degraded but will tell you how long you can expect the product to perform.

 

I'll have to back track on my original impressions. I actually was out on the road last night with the Pro150's, and there is definitely a noticeable improvement over stock. Not sure why the driveway test was so disappointing, maybe they need time to warm up, or burn in? But they throw more light out to the sides, and it's a nicer white light, and I also notice more light right below the cut off. All and all I'm happy. Still think they are over priced, but if I get close to H9 performance in an H11 bulb that lasts longer then the H9, that's all I was looking for.

Nate.

 

Definitely a solid improvement over stock. My underwhelming comment was that I had hoped their performance would exceed the GE/Tungsrams, especially for their price point. They do appear have better light to the sides of the pattern, but peak intensity was less than I was hoping.